All the world's a stage for Dolce & Gabbana and its models are decked out in some seriously stylin' clothes. Vlada Roslyakova, Olga Sherer, Zuzana Gregorova, Regina Feoktistova, and Kamila Filipcikova do a stellar job showing off the designers' latest ready-to-wear. One part of the collection is spunky — bright frocks, floral headpieces, leopard prints, skin-tight silhouettes, sheer lace, sparkles — while the other is all about subdued hues, cozy knits, and demure cuts. One thing they have in common: They all feature heavy, dramatic maroon curtains in the back. Can you dig it?
>> Nothing's going to beat the Fall 2009 Marc Jacobs ad with Natasa Vojnovic leaning out of a brick building, but her campaign compatriots — Ajuma Nasenyana, Olga Sherer, Kamila Filipcikova, and Irina Kulikova — put up a good fight in this acid-washed full set, which was photographed by Juergen Teller back at the end of April.
>> Some thought that Vogue Paris's August 2009 cover with Daria Werbowy all decked out in Burberry check looked too blatantly like an advertisement, but in the context of Inez van Lamweerde and Vinoodh Matadin's 65-page accompanying editorial inside — with a plethora of models, each embodying a different brand's identity — it all makes sense.
It's a few of the magazine's usual suspects — Anja Rubik doing Gucci's "glam star" in fauxhawk, Kamila Filipcikova striking an eyepopping McQueen silhouette — plus a few new faces like Regina Feoktistova and Ranya Mordanova in Gianfranco Ferre and Junya Watanabe, respectively. The trifecta of stylists that produced these images — Joe McKenna, Emmanuelle Alt, Carine Roitfeld — prove that there is creativity to be found within the bounds of a studio shoot, after all.
Marc Jacobs Doesn't Design Louis Vuitton Cruise, But Encourages Leaning Out of Buildings in His Fall 2009 Ads
>> The Louis Vuitton Cruise 2010 we saw last week was the work of new Vuitton design director Julie de Libran, who has taken Peter Copping's place now that he's heading up Nina Ricci; apparently for some time now, Marc Jacobs has entrusted Resort designing to one of his lieutenants.
Meanwhile, the Fall 2009 ads for his namesake label are starting to appear; one with Natasa Vojnovic leaning out of a building precariously, and another a collage of portraits of Natasa, Ajuma Nasenyana, and Kamila Filipcikova. Irina Kulikova and Olga Sherer are also supposed to appear in the Juergen Teller-lensed set.
If you've ever wondered what models look like after partying the night away, peep at Marc Jacobs's Fall '09 campaign. The ad, shot by Juergen Teller, features Natasa Vojnovic, Ajuma Nasanyana, Kamila Filipcikova, and Olga Sherer looking glamorously tipsy wearing Marc's colorful '80s-inspired frocks. To add more emphasis to the throwback theme, the models are styled with opaque tights, teased hair, and makeup reminiscent of Madonna's heyday. It's a little kooky, a little cool — what do you think?
>> THE MODELIZER —Iekeliene Stange may be in Nepal right about now, but as she takes a break from the model scenery and photographs something else for that upcoming gallery opening she's hoping to have, she's shared her favorite shots from the Spring 2009 season — even adding her own commentary. Kamila Filipcikova making a funny face, Kinga Rajzak killing a fly in Rodarte . . . they're all there. [Style.com]
>> When Natalie Portman comes to the show, Keira Knightley hits up the after party, and Anna Wintour brings Bee — who usually only goes to Marc Jacobs and Proenza Schouler — along, you know Rodarte is really starting to make it big. Even Vogue Italia's editor-in-chief, Franca Sozzani, had a little trouble getting in — apparently, she tried to follow Anna and Bee through the velvet rope, but the PR staff wouldn't allow it.
Onto the clothes: They followed the same thought process as the Fall 2008 collection, but with a few key changes — the colors, the shoes (those treacherous shoes, made by Nicholas Kirkwood instead of Christian Louboutin this season), and the leggings, which were leather instead of knit, and although they looked laser cut, were entirely handmade. Some think the look veered into Balenciaga territory, but me? I'm just enjoying the view.
>> For the second season in a row, Marc Jacobs started his show promptly, just ten minutes after its scheduled start — only this time, half the attendees weren't locked out — everyone had learned their lesson. "Ladies and gentlemen, please take your seats. The show is about to begin."
Through swinging mirror doors, the models walked the mirror-lined runway from every direction, funhouse illusions abounding. But show tactics aside, with Marc, it always comes down to the clothes — the mashed-up, layered, bangled clothes, sparkling, plaided, and sheened. As Gershwin played in the background, Marc took us in a whole new direction — and he did it while wearing a skirt.
>> Alessandra Facchinetti's first couture collection at Valentino represents a nerve-racking, generational hand-off, but Giorgio Armani was there in the front row to lend support and represent the old guard.
The collection had the palpable feel of a different designer, as it should — more structure and pared-down tailoring, with most of the detail left to the back of the garments, and more subdued colors than the pastels Valentino had been playing with. However, Alessandra did stay true to the three most guiding parts of the Valentino aesthetic: femininity, ruffles, and of course, Valentino red. In fact, that same Valentino red painted the final look of the collection — a stunning chiffon number.
>> Seeing a Chanel couture collection is a thrill, but the clothes are always rivaled by what new, huge installation Karl Lagerfeld has plopped in the center of le Grand Palais for the models to stream out of. In recent seasons, there's been a giant tweed jacket and a larger-than-life carousel; This time around, it was a gigantic set of organ pipes.
The show started with a fugue of ominous organ music, and together with the central pipe installation and the tube-like detailing on many of the intricate dresses, reflected the inspiration which had come to Karl during a concert.