LVMH

>> Namesake designer Jimmy Choo and LVMH are no longer in the running to buy the Choo label — which is said to be valued at between £400 million and £500 million (or up to $813.4 million) — but Jones Group (which owns Nine West and last year bought Stuart Weitzman) reportedly is. Although a Jones Group spokeswoman declined comment on the matter, the company is said to be one among three potential buyers, the other two of which are German luxury company Labelux, which owns Bally, and US buyout firm TPG. The next bids are expected in mid-May. [WSJ, Reuters]

>> A former Marc Jacobs executive filed a sex discrimination lawsuit earlier this week against Robert Duffy, Marc Jacobs International, and LVMH. Jacobs himself was not named in the suit.

The plaintiff, Patrice Lataillade, who was CFO and COO of Marc Jacobs International until his dismissal last September, alleges that Duffy “uses company funds for personal expenses and does not censor what he does or says.” The suit also gives examples of "Duffy's conduct which created a hostile work environment," including "his displaying [of] gay pornography in the office and requiring employees to look at it; his production and dissemination of a book which included photos of MJI staff in sexual positions or nude; [and] his requirement that an MJI store employee perform a pole dance for him."

Lataillade, who had worked at LVMH since May 1996 (and joined MJI in 2002), said in court papers that he complained of Duffy's behavior to MJI executives and the LVMH general counsel, but nothing was done. Other employees had also complained, the suit says, but a woman was told she needed a "thicker skin" and a man was instructed to "go home early and have a drink." Lataillade was fired "within less than a week" after his lawyers sent an email to the CEO of MJI and the LVMH general counsel regarding the "legal situation," and he alleges that he was “fired in retaliation for objecting to a discriminatory environment offensive to him.”

A Jacobs spokeswoman called the claims "false": "Patrice Lataillade was terminated as CFO and COO of [Marc Jacobs International] for serious matters unrelated to the allegations made in the complaint." And an LVMH spokeswoman said similarly: “The allegations contained in the complaint are false. Patrice Lataillade was terminated as chief financial officer and chief operating officer of MJI for serious matters unrelated to the allegations contained in the complaint. MJI, LVMH Inc. and Robert Duffy will vigorously defend the case in court.”

At the time of his discharge, Lataillade's compensation package was $1 million a year; he is seeking lost wages, compensatory and punitive damages, lawyer's fees, and other relief deemed appropriate by the court.

>> Mario Testino photographed Anna Wintour for the April 2011 cover of WSJ. — likely at her request (he often shoots Vogue's covers). Because if there's one thing about Wintour, it's that she does things on her own terms.

Si Newhouse (chairman of Advance Publications, which owns Vogue) attests with an anecdote about a Fashion's Night Out meeting Wintour held in Paris, which had 30 international Vogue editors and publishers in attendance: "It was the first time anybody had gotten them all together. She didn't need my authority to do it — she has a remarkable ability to impose her will. If I had had reservations, she probably would have gone ahead anyway."

Marc Jacobs, too, confirms: "If I get a request for something I don't want to do, first I get an email, then a phone call from someone at Vogue, and now I don't even bother to say no — I know the next call is from her." And New York City mayor Michael Bloomberg, who Wintour has worked with on a number of initiatives — including Fashion's Night Out — says: "Behind all Anna's grace and poise is some pretty tough resolve. She's not a person you want to say no to."

Even the Costume Institute has bowed to Wintour's requests (she has raised a grand total of $75 million for the organization, after all). For last year's gala, she had a 30-foot hot-air balloon trucked in from South Dakota to float above the museum's Engelhard Court. "When we first saw it, we go, 'Never! We can't have gas in the museum!' " says Met president Emily Rafferty. "Anna's changed our attitude — she's brought us to new levels of thinking of what we can do, but without ever losing sight that we're working in a museum context here."

Needless to say, Wintour's reach extends much further than fashion. Harvey Weinstein, who has known Wintour for 15 years (and more recently married Marchesa's Georgina Chapman), notes: "I'm a streak player, but Anna's there, good or bad. When I wasn't doing so well, Anna would throw a party and put me next to Bernard Arnault." Although he declined to be specific, Weinstein said that he had several business deals come out of that party. And Baz Luhrmann, who just recently cast Wintour favorite Carey Mulligan to star in his upcoming film adaptation of The Great Gatsby, says: "I always talk to Anna about what I'm up to, and I always listen to what she has to say."

Within fashion, too, Wintour is more than just an editor. As Francois-Henri Pinault, head of PPR, says: "She tackles things that are really much bigger than what any other editors take on." Because of Wintour, Pinault is currently discussing how to financially support young designers with the French government. But Wintour never straight-out asks him to do something: "She's much more subtle than that."

She's also something of a matchmaker — whether it's designer to brand (in the case of placing John Galliano at Christian Dior back in 1996; Bernard Arnault — chairman of LVMH, which owns Dior — says of Wintour: "She pointed us towards unexpected choices. I speak very openly to her, and this was quite audacious — it was not about picking the big names of the moment. It took her to see that there was a stylistic closeness between John and Dior. She was the discoverer.") or brand to financier (in the case of Bottega Veneta and Gucci Group or Michael Kors and Sportswear Holdings). "She does this very discreetly, but she's really a kind of consigliere to the entire fashion and retail industry," one former colleague who worked closely with Wintour says. Another former colleague, who attended several corporate matchmaking meetings with Wintour, adds: "I came to realize that she's really the McKinsey of fashion." As for Wintour's word on the matter? "We can suggest," she says, "but in the end, everybody makes up their own minds."

It sounds like Wintour isn't going anywhere anytime soon. Vogue is Conde Nast's most profitable publication, Si Newhouse confirms, adding that he has no successor in mind: "Never. I hope she's here 10 years from now, 20 years from now." Wintour, for her part, says: "With all the new media outlets out there, with all the noise, a voice of authority and calm like Vogue becomes more important than ever. The more eyes on fashion, the more opinions about fashion, the more exploration of fashion around the world, the better it is for Vogue. Vogue is like Nike or Coca-Cola — this huge global brand. I want to enhance it, I want to protect it, and I want it to be part of the conversation."

A few more quotables from the WSJ. profile:

Marc Jacobs on Wintour's cold reputation: "She gets such a bad rap. She stands by the people she believes in, and if you're not one of those people, perhaps you take a different view."

Wintour's take on her reputation: "I care deeply about my friends and my family and they know it, but work is work."

Wintour on cover choice regrets: "I'm not terribly proud of putting the Spice Girls on the cover."

Wintour on the John Galliano scandal: "This is all so tragic."

Wintour on being criticized for using the same people in Vogue: "I try to remain open to new people, but obviously there's a stronger element of trust with people you've known for a long time. I think we have a Vogue vocabulary, and there are certain people we like to have as the backbone of the magazine — Vogue's signposts. We try very hard to integrate the familiar signatures with people we feel are new and up-and-coming, but I would rather err on the side of being a little more familiar than being too . . . What's the right word? . . . Edgy."

WSJ. on Wintour's morning habits: "When I met Wintour in her big, artfully tidy office at Vogue, she had been up since 5 am — her normal waking hour. On most days she goes off to play tennis at 6, but lately she's been nursing a sore elbow and can't play. Which didn't mean no tennis."

>> Bernard Arnault has been on a buying streak — a week ago, LVMH acquired Bulgari, which returned to profitability in 2010. Through his investment firm Groupe Arnault, Arnault recently purchased Moynat, the 19th-century trunk-maker five years older than Louis Vuitton, with intentions to reinvigorate the brand (which is best known for its lightweight, waterproof automobile trunks). And now, he may be circling Jimmy Choo, as well.

LVMH is reportedly considering a bid on the shoe brand, which kicked off its sale at the beginning of this month to the interest of more than 10 potential bidders — and is expected to go for between £400 million and £500 million (approx. $644 million and $805 million).

• Behati Prinsloo and Chanel Iman talk Spring Break essentials — Racked
• Nicole Miller, Neiman Marcus, and Kate Spade debut new media makeovers — InStyle
• Fab UK's favorite Paris Fashion Week shows — FabSugarUK
• Despite rumors of John Galliano's successor, it's still an official "no comment" from LVMH — Vogue UK Daily
• Celebrity trend: pastel dresses — Teen Vogue
• One-on-one with model/actress Liya Kebede — Lucky
• Is the fashion industry going on substance-abuse watch? — The Cut
• Alexander Wang's new backpack is perfect for a city girl — Purse Blog
• Gwen Stefani's wedding dress finds a new home at a museum — People StyleWatch
• Vive le punk: Judy Blame rocks Paco Rabanne — Vogue Daily

>> Some rumors have the Dior job signed and sealed — with Riccardo Tisci at the helm — but according to LVMH head Bernard Arnault, as of this morning, no decision had been made about John Galliano's replacement. “We’re thinking,” he said at the Louis Vuitton show. Suzy Menkes reports: "People close to LVMH who chose not to be identified because of the sensitivity of the subject say [Marc] Jacobs is a possible candidate, but he does the Vuitton thing so well that it would be a risk to move him." When asked whether he had designs on the Dior position, Jacobs replied: "No! I haven’t been asked.” [IHT]

>> Despite the fact that Riccardo Tisci says he's "happy at Givenchy," he's a heavy favorite for the Dior job — and last night, Derek Blasberg tweeted, "I was just told backstage at the Katy Perry concert (of all places!) that Riccardo Tisci is CONFIRMED at Dior." Today, Grazia editor-at-large Melanie Rickey also blogged: "If what I hear coming out from very well placed sources in Paris is true, today Riccardo Tisci, the 35 year old Saint Martins trained, Madonna-loving Italian Roman Catholic boy from Givenchy is to be placed as the creative director at Christian Dior."

Will an announcement come today? Even though LVMH was said not to be in a hurry to name a successor at Dior — and is not legally allowed to until Galliano is fully terminated — Vogue UK reported earlier today: "Rumours have begun on the front row this morning that there will be two major fashion announcements today. The first is supposed to be made by Carine Roitfeld, who is thought to be planning to unveil plans of next project following her departure from French Vogue — does Givenchy or YSL beckon? The second is expected after the Miu Miu show — will Galliano's Dior successor finally be revealed?"

>> While Hermes continues to fight off LVMH and Bernard Arnault — on Friday, Hermes CEO Patrick Thomas said of the conglomerate's advances: “If you want to seduce a beautiful woman, you don’t start by raping her from behind” — another luxury brand has become part of the LVMH stable.

In a €3.7 billion ($5.2 billion) deal, LVMH will take a controlling stake in Bulgari, with the Bulgari family trading in its 51 percent share in the brand. In return, they will become the second largest family shareholder in LVMH, after Arnault. Paolo and Nicola Bulgari will remain chairman and vice chairman of the Bulgari board, respectively, and the Bulgari family will get two seats on the board of LVMH as part of the deal.

Arnault has expressed interest over the past decade in adding Bulgari to his portfolio, and the Bulgari family seems pleased, as well. "This is a significant step for our family as well as for Bulgari, occurring at a time of strong revenue growth,” said Bulgari CEO Francesco Trapani. “Our entrance into LVMH will allow Bulgari to reinforce its worldwide growth and to realize noteworthy synergies, in particular in the areas of purchasing and distribution.”

>> Riccardo Tisci is regarded as a favorite to succeed John Galliano at Dior — he already works for LVMH at Givenchy, and as a source told Racked, "Givenchy is a training ground for Dior, just like for Galliano in the '90s" (Galliano was creative director at Givenchy before joining Dior in 1996).

Now, Fashionista reports: "The latest gossip [at Paris Fashion Week] goes something like this: Riccardo Tisci will indeed replace Galliano at Christian Dior, Haider Ackermann will slip into Tisci’s spot at Givenchy, and despite YSL’s vehement denial otherwise, Hedi Slimane is about to take over for Stefano Pilati. Oh, and yes, Carine Roitfeld is coming along for the ride."

Vogue UK heard similarly regarding Pilati and Saint Laurent: "Fashion insiders close to the action in Paris suggest that a major fashion reshuffle could be set in to motion in the coming week — and may be sparked by the rumoured appointment of Hedi Slimane and Carine Roitfeld as the new creative team at the helm of YSL. Nothing has been confirmed by the brand, but our sources suggest that — despite YSL protestations to the contrary — Pilati may be replaced."