Lauren Santo Domingo

Mary-Kate Olsen

Proenza Schouler Fall 2010: Graffiti Pants, Schoolgirl Skirts — And Anna Wintour Watching Without Her Sunglasses On

>> If you didn't get enough late '90s references at Alexander Wang, look to Proenza Schouler to fill your Fall 2010 quota.

>> If you didn't get enough late '90s references at Alexander Wang, look to Proenza Schouler to fill your Fall 2010 quota. Newcomer Ann Kenny — who has the most arresting blue eyes — opened the show in high-waisted graffiti pants, made in collaboration with J Brand, and a shrunken navy toggle jacket. All the John Fleuvog-style curved platform heels and sheer thigh highs paired with full pleated school girl-style miniskirts must have caught Anna Wintour's attention — she sat next to Bee Shaffer the entire show, sunglasses-less (a first?), until the final runthrough when she finally put her trademark shades on.

Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez had the house packed: benches arranged around the X-shaped runway sat as many as they could possibly fit — with the likes of Pamela Love, Mary-Kate Olsen, Jen Brill, Julia Restoin-Roitfeld, Carine Roitfeld (in green furry heels), Joseph Altuzarra, Lauren Santo Domingo, Vanessa Traina, Chloe Sevigny, Craig McDean, Terry Richardson, and Olivier Zahm all accounted for. Bass pumped through Milk Studios loud enough to shake the walls, while fuzzy printed flannel dresses and alpine knits evolved into razor-sharp cropped jackets and finally, patterned minidresses with bubble skirts and trapeze shapes.

Marie Chaix styled once again, and if you're a fan of straight-off-the-runway (many front-rowers had their PS 1 clutches handy), for the next 24-odd hours, two of the runway handbags are available for purchase.  Post-show, a sight: Hamish Bowles, in his usual dapper suit, but instead of his usual brogues, his trousers stuffed into shiny black wellies.  A video of the show can be seen here.

Monique Pean

Fab Exclusive! Christian Cota, Fashion's Next Big Star (Is Already Working on a Lower Priced Line)

You may not be familiar with Mexican-born Christian Cota, but he's about to blow up.

You may not be familiar with Mexican-born Christian Cota, but he's about to blow up. He always steps out of the black fashion box, experimenting with color, texture, and prints. And his Fall collection is a step beyond. Cota was inspired by cubism; he took his signature draping and reimagined it to bring us something more structured, more serious. Mineral tones reigned: ochre, crimson, purple, copper, lapis, onyx, and anthracite — cool metals and warm jewels. Socialite Lauren Santo Domingo serves as his stylist, and his presentation brought the whole Vogue crew to bid warm hellos, and oohs, and aahs.

Subtle, sparkling jewelry was by Monique Pean, recent CFDA Vogue Fashion Fund runner-up. And the lace-up, suede, open-toe booties were Aldo (sweet!). Oh, and do you recall Carrie Underwood wore him to this year's People Choice Awards? I talked to Cota about that, and here's more juice.

Your collection has such a variety or textures, fabrics, and silhouettes.

Very boxy, lean silhouettes, with interesting texture and color. And very body-conscious, lean-fitting silhouettes. I wanted to do daywear, so with this jacket I did a wool coating but added some glitz and lurex feel, which I love. I really believe in having color and shine. Usually I do a softer, drapey silhouette, and this season I wanted to explore something more angular. It can still be beautiful and feminine but a little tougher.

To read the rest of my interview and to see the full Fall collection, read more

Diane Von Furstenberg

Alexander Wang Fall 2010: Wall Street, Wang-Style

>> Despite the vast concrete-floored warehouse space waiting inside Pier 94 to house Alexander Wang's guests, they all had to pass through a single set of double doors at the entrance yesterday, causing quite the crush, particularly because a burly security guard took up a large part of the entryway, allowing VIPs like Dasha Zhukova and Fabien Baron pass on his right, while everyone else had to go to his left.

>> Despite the vast concrete-floored warehouse space waiting inside Pier 94 to house Alexander Wang's guests, they all had to pass through a single set of double doors at the entrance yesterday, causing quite the crush, particularly because a burly security guard took up a large part of the entryway, allowing VIPs like Dasha Zhukova and Fabien Baron pass on his right, while everyone else had to go to his left.

The crowd buzzed with excitement; after all, Wang has come a long way in a few short seasons — to the point that a major magazine's accessories editor had to ask stylists to stop using one of his shoes, the lace-up sandal boot from Spring 2010, which had become ubiquitous, in all of their shoots.

Tavi Gavinson emerged from backstage, Fashion Television camera crew in tow, and took to laughing with and interviewing Lauren Santo Domingo, Julia Restoin Roitfeld, and Derek Blasberg. She took her front row seat, and the stadium-style lights went down and then up, revealing opener (and closer) Natalia Vodianova, hair shellacked over one eye, as she walked along the long black background, giving the audience a prolonged view in profile, before turning to give them a closer look.

Wang, like fellow young designer Jason Wu, felt the need for a turning point in his brand this season, hence a focus on a more tailored silhouette in the form of deconstructed pinstripe suits: Wall Street, Wang-style.  But there was also a strong element of late-'90s goth: the models wore black backpacks with fluttery floor-length tails, 5-inch high chunky-heeled mid-calf boots in velvet or brown with burnished yellow toes (which they had trouble turning in), pleated mini-skirts with tuxedo tails in back, and mid-thigh leggings which belled out over their shoes.  There was even some chenille and a black leather trench thrown into the mix.

Big on collaborations, Wang worked with stylist Karl Templer and Linda Farrow sunglasses each for the second time, the latter producing bug-eyed shades worn over the models' hair, and Gaia Repossi for jewelry.  In addition to Natalia, Freja Beha Erichsen and Snejana Onopka made their runway debut for the week; Agyness Deyn and Jessica Miller, ready for a comeback, also took a turn.  The designer's CFDA-appointed mentor Diane von Furstenberg was front row, smiling during the finale, along with her CEO Paula Sutter, whose appearance raised a few questions about investment potential (DVF has a stake in Nathan Jensen's line).

Wang decided to forgo an after-party this season after last season's gas station-set rager, but fret not; last night, he told WWD with a grin: "We're planning something big for September."

Monique Pean

Donatella Brings that Versace Glamour to the Whitney Museum Art Gala

>> For the second year running, the Whitney Art Musem Gala was Donatella Versace's party.  Editors — Olivier Zahm, Lauren Santo Domingo, Glenda Bailey — commingled with designers — Peter Som, Moises de la Renta, Ruffian's Claude Morais and Brian Wolk — and a smattering of models like Chanel Iman and Hana Soukupova.

>> For the second year running, the Whitney Art Musem Gala was Donatella Versace's party.  Editors — Olivier Zahm, Lauren Santo Domingo, Glenda Bailey — commingled with designers — Peter Som, Moises de la Renta, Ruffian's Claude Morais and Brian Wolk — and a smattering of models like Chanel Iman and Hana Soukupova. Christopher Kane's Versus designs even made an appearance — the Fall 2009 crystal shoes were on Byrdie Bell's feet, and Taylor Momsen — who seems to be close with the Versaces, particularly Allegra, changed into a black Spring 2010 Versus frock for the Studio Party post-Gala Dinner.

Donatella was fashionably late to the party — two hours in, she was nowhere to be found; perhaps she was still upstairs tending to VIPs — as was Lindsay Lohan, who swept in, all blonde hair and gold dress — earning comparisons to Donatella's trademark look. Lohan said she came "for Donatella" before beelining to Brian Atwood for a chat.  Keeping with the "art chic" theme, the walls of one whole room at the party downstairs was covered in paper for guests to scribble on.

New York Fashion Week

See What Lauren Santo Domingo Is Supposedly Obsessed With at Christian Cota Spring 2010

>> Lauren Santo Domingo has been turning it out front row this week — from Phi leather pants to Balmain sandals — aside from that front-row smoke break at Alexander Wang which caused a stir according to The Daily, but she was also back to style Christian Cota's presentation for Spring 2010.  While waiting in line to view the presentation, we overheard one of Cota's publicists talking about how Santo Domingo was "obsessed" with the jewelry she paired with Cota's cocktail dresses; Style.com also just published a piece about how Cota's "show stylist" — Santo Domingo wasn't named — "happened upon" LITTER, a line of headpieces and body jewelry that is primarily made from secondhand jewelry, "on a trip to San Fran a few months back, so she did the natural thing and coaxed the designers back to New York."

>> Lauren Santo Domingo has been turning it out front row this week — from Phi leather pants to Balmain sandals — aside from that front-row smoke break at Alexander Wang which caused a stir according to The Daily, but she was also back to style Christian Cota's presentation for Spring 2010.  While waiting in line to view the presentation, we overheard one of Cota's publicists talking about how Santo Domingo was "obsessed" with the jewelry she paired with Cota's cocktail dresses; Style.com also just published a piece about how Cota's "show stylist" — Santo Domingo wasn't named — "happened upon" LITTER, a line of headpieces and body jewelry that is primarily made from secondhand jewelry, "on a trip to San Fran a few months back, so she did the natural thing and coaxed the designers back to New York."

Vogue

>> September Issue Leaves Grace Coddington in Newfound Limelight, Lauren Santo Domingo Feeling "Really Surpised" —Grace Coddington has enjoyed a new sense of recognition since her turn in The September Issue — four pages of Vogue Paris's September 2009 issue are devoted to her, in which she quips: "[Anna Wintour and I] have a real mutual respect for each other, even though sometimes I feel like killing her.”  She was spotted dining twice yesterday with the film's director RJ Cutler — perhaps as a thank you?

>> September Issue Leaves Grace Coddington in Newfound Limelight, Lauren Santo Domingo Feeling "Really Surpised" —Grace Coddington has enjoyed a new sense of recognition since her turn in The September Issue — four pages of Vogue Paris's September 2009 issue are devoted to her, in which she quips: "[Anna Wintour and I] have a real mutual respect for each other, even though sometimes I feel like killing her.”  She was spotted dining twice yesterday with the film's director RJ Cutler — perhaps as a thank you?  Meanwhile, Vogue contributing editor Lauren Santo Domingo "was really surprised at the amount of access" the filmmakers were given. "There were even things I'm not privy to or I'm not aware of — things that go on in the art department, in the photo room. I've never been in any of those meetings." [WWD, FWD, The Cut]

Prada

>> INSIDER WIRE —There were a lot of designers missing from last night's festivities — Karl Lagerfeld, Stefano Gabbana, Domenico Dolce, Christopher Bailey among them — but even more notable was the lack of certain designers on the red carpet: Balenciaga, Prada and Miu Miu weren't represented at all (though Dasha Zhukova wore vintage Prada), and typical heavyweight Giorgio Armani had one sole wearer — Claire Danes.  Meanwhile, Phi emerged as a dark horse — watch out Proenza Schouler, Andreas Melbostad is taking over your crowd — Erin Wasson, Natasha Poly, Lauren Santo Domingo, and Vanessa Traina all chose the label last night.

>> INSIDER WIRE —There were a lot of designers missing from last night's festivities — Karl Lagerfeld, Stefano Gabbana, Domenico Dolce, Christopher Bailey among them — but even more notable was the lack of certain designers on the red carpet: Balenciaga, Prada and Miu Miu weren't represented at all (though Dasha Zhukova wore vintage Prada), and typical heavyweight Giorgio Armani had one sole wearer — Claire Danes.  Meanwhile, Phi emerged as a dark horse — watch out Proenza Schouler, Andreas Melbostad is taking over your crowd — Erin Wasson, Natasha Poly, Lauren Santo Domingo, and Vanessa Traina all chose the label last night. [Style File]

2009 Fashion Week

>> INSIDER WIRE — Lauren Santo Domingo has earned plenty of fans for her personal style and put in her hours as a sittings editor for Vogue; now, she's lending a show-styling hand to at least two-and-coming designers in two days — J.Mendel alum Bibhu Mohapatra (Fall 2009 look, left), and Christian Cota, Fashion Group International's 2009 Rising Star (Jason Wu was 2008's): "I think you’ll see a new edge to Christian’s always impeccable uptown polish.” [Hint, Style File] *image: source

>> INSIDER WIRE Lauren Santo Domingo has earned plenty of fans for her personal style and put in her hours as a sittings editor for Vogue; now, she's lending a show-styling hand to at least two-and-coming designers in two days — J.Mendel alum Bibhu Mohapatra (Fall 2009 look, left), and Christian Cota, Fashion Group International's 2009 Rising Star (Jason Wu was 2008's): "I think you’ll see a new edge to Christian’s always impeccable uptown polish.” [Hint, Style File]

*image: source

Diane Von Furstenberg

Magazine Has a Elle of a Time Shooting in Egypt

»Fashion is fun!  During a shoot in Egypt for the September issue of Elle, the crew ate parasite-laced baba ghanoush and had to argue with the Cairo airport staff for 2 days before they could have their 14 trunks of clothing to photograph [Elle Tell All] »Vivienne Westwood was not impressed by the Sex and the City movie [Fashionista] »Tom Ford may be returning to womenswear .

»Fashion is fun!  During a shoot in Egypt for the September issue of Elle, the crew ate parasite-laced baba ghanoush and had to argue with the Cairo airport staff for 2 days before they could have their 14 trunks of clothing to photograph [Elle Tell All]

»Vivienne Westwood was not impressed by the Sex and the City movie [Fashionista]

»Tom Ford may be returning to womenswear . . . in two or three years [The Cut]

»Diane von Furstenberg speaks fluent Italian "thanks to [her] Italian husband and boyfriends" [WWD Blog]

»Topshop will be sponsoring the runway shows for Louise Goldin, Danielle Scutt, MeadhamKirchhoff, House of Holland, and Peter Pilotto at London Fashion Week this Fall [FWD]

»Lauren Santo Domingo, she speaks!  (So do Bonnie Morrison, Lawren Howell, and Kathryn Neale Shaffer) [Style.com]

Sarah Jessica Parker

Fashion Darling Olivier Theyskens Commits Fashion Don't

>> It has already been well-reported that Sarah Jessica Parker wore the same Nina Ricci dress to the New York Sex and the City premiere last week as Vogue contributing editor and socialite Lauren Santo Domingo wore to the Costume Insitute Gala on May 5.  More interesting, however, is the story behing the mix-up — as Cathy Horyn reports, both Nina Ricci designer Olivier Theyskens and Mario Grauso, the president of the fashion division at Puig, which owns Nina Ricci, assured SJP that the gown had not been worn in anything but magazine shoots.  When she came to find out that wasn't the case, she felt deceived: In the big picture, this is not important, but there is a relationship between the entertainment industry and fashion .

>> It has already been well-reported that Sarah Jessica Parker wore the same Nina Ricci dress to the New York Sex and the City premiere last week as Vogue contributing editor and socialite Lauren Santo Domingo wore to the Costume Insitute Gala on May 5. 

More interesting, however, is the story behing the mix-up — as Cathy Horyn reports, both Nina Ricci designer Olivier Theyskens and Mario Grauso, the president of the fashion division at Puig, which owns Nina Ricci, assured SJP that the gown had not been worn in anything but magazine shoots.  When she came to find out that wasn't the case, she felt deceived:

In the big picture, this is not important, but there is a relationship between the entertainment industry and fashion . . . my affection for the dress hasn’t changed, but what they did was so short-sighted. It’s just unethical and disappointing that they would allow the dress to be worn again.

Parker says she mentioned to Olivier during the fitting that she was surprised the dress hadn't already been worn:

He didn’t say, ‘Well, actually I just escorted Lauren down the red carpet at the Met.’  I just wish it had been handled differently and they had been straight about it.

When Cathy asked Grauso for a response, he of course said, "I’m upset that she’s upset.”  But then he went on to fumble for excuses — he clearly knew that Lauren had worn the dress to an event before, because he said he had no reason to mention Santo Domingo:

'Is Lauren a celebrity?  It depends on how you look at it.' He said he and Theyskens mainly thought of her as a friend. He then asked—somewhat incredulously, I thought—“Does everybody look at Style.com?'

A bad move on Nina Ricci's part, especially when they were just becoming red carpet gold.  I wonder what Anna Wintour, who so strongly favors Olivier, thinks about it?

*images: source