Lincoln Center

>> Since her collection's inception, Victoria Beckham has hosted her fashion show presentations in intimate settings, narrating each look. Same goes for L'Wren Scott, who has for many seasons kept her presentations intimate enough to simultaneously serve a lunch. And over a year ago, Marc Jacobs downsized his fashion show invites from 1,400 to 500. But after Tom Ford trumpeted the merits of an intimate show last fashion week, some think a change toward smaller shows is in the air.

“He [Ford] shook up the industry,” said Paul Wilmot, a fashion publicist whose firm handles the Oscar de la Renta and Bill Blass shows. “And if somebody says they weren’t influenced, that would be a lie.” James Laforce, who handles shows like Vena Cava, notes: “I’ve heard plenty of people saying, ‘Let’s do a Tom Ford kind of thing.’ They are asking themselves, ‘Is more really more, or is more watering down our influence?’” And KCD's Ed Filipowski, who produces shows for Alexander Wang, Phillip Lim, and Jacobs, agrees: “Intimate is a word that’s definitely in the air."

It's true: a spokesman for IMG, which produces the Lincoln Center shows, says that there has been an increased demand for the smaller Lincoln Center venues like the Box, at 250 seats, and the Studio, which seats 500.

Altuzarra has invited a third fewer guests than last season — less than 300. “In this day and age when there are so many shows, everything gets so much coverage through live streaming, Twitter and the blogs,” Coline Choay, the label's director of publicity and marketing, notes. “You want to make the live show experience special . . . Intimacy, exclusivity and a chance to see the clothes: those are our priorities. We like exposure, but we want a more controlled exposure.”

However, in some cases, the move to intimacy could be a more amenable front for financial constraints. Publicist Vanessa von Bismarck, who handles shows for the likes of Edun, Erin Fetherston, and Suno, says that financial pressures caused some of her clients to go for a smaller production: "They just don’t have the money to put on a big show.” And as Filipowski pointed out: “In reality, we’re not seeing big changes in the size of the shows.”

>> IMG Fashion Settles New York Fashion Week Union Dispute — Picket lines during New York Fashion Week — from the Lincoln Center stagehands union, anyway — have been avoided. IMG Fashion, which produces the shows at Lincoln Center, and the union have settled their labor dispute. Both parties released a statement today confirming their agreement: “The agreement, which runs through the February 2013 event, will ensure IMG Fashion’s ability to present this premier event using world class talent from the New York theatrical industry. We are pleased with the outcome and will continue to coordinate efforts as the event gets underway in September." [WWD]

>> Lincoln Center has bigger plans for fashion than just Fashion Week, according to the space's fashion director Stephanie Winston Wolkoff, who coordinated the Costume Institute Gala at Vogue for a number of years and is now responsible for pulling together Fashion Week at Lincoln Center. "I want to see fashion on par with all of the other cultural activities here — the ballet, the opera," she told the Wall Street Journal. "I really do think that it's going to be very important that fashion at Lincoln Center becomes a year-round initiative."

Lincoln Center is planning fashion-focused events, like lectures and film series, after the Fashion Week tents are gone, and on Oct. 14, its New York Public Library for the Performing Arts space will host "On Stage in Fashion," an exhibition exploring collaborations between fashion designers and performing artists, including Calvin Klein and Halston for Martha Graham, Isaac Mizrahi for Mark Morris and Marc Jacobs for Lar Lubovitch.

>> Stephanie Winston Wolkoff, Lincoln Center’s new fashion director, wasn't kidding when she said there will be no crashers at this year's New York Fashion Week. This season, instead of sending out paper fashion show invitations that require check-in with publicists at the show doors like seasons past, designers will instead send email invitations with bar coded confirmations ahead of time, so attendees can check in and receive their seating assignments from airport-style kiosks at the venue.

Marc Jacobs has used the system in seasons past »

>> New York Fashion Week could be picketed, and not by PETA. The first season at Lincoln Center could be marred if a dispute between IMG Fashion, which produces Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week, and the union which oversees much of the stagehand and theatrical labor at the performing arts complex is not resolved before Sept. 9, when the shows begin.

The disagreement is centered on the locations IMG plans to erect the Fashion Week tents; a contract between the union and Lincoln Center gives the union jurisdiction for certain locations on the performing arts center's campus, but not in Damrosch Park, where the tents are supposed to be pitched. But according to the union's president, contracts are typically awarded to the union for similar events, and based on that precedent, the union believes IMG should be required to hire union labor for all Fashion Week events. The union was supposed to hold an emergency meeting this morning to discuss their options, and is considering setting up a picket line.

IMG addresses the situation »

Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week is getting a new look and some additional features this September. Yesterday, IMG Fashion (minus Fern Mallis who resigned Wednesday after nine years as global ambassador to start her own consulting firm) announced plans for the new and improved New York Fashion Week at Lincoln Center.

Say goodbye to Bryant Park's Tent, Salon, and Promenade; the spring 2011 collections will be shown in one of five new venues: The Theatre (with all black interior, it can seat 969 people), The Stage (slightly smaller, decorated in white and gray), The Studio (the smallest runway space), The Box (a presentation room), and The Courtyard (a glass-encased outdoor space for events and presentations).

Lincoln Center, with the help of director of fashion Stephanie Winston Wolkoff, promises to offer designers more options for runway configuration, lighting, and stage sets this season and is partnering with Fashion GPS to manage guest lists and RSVPs. A brand new website with designer and press contact information is also part of the plan.

Above: A rendering of Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week at Lincoln Center

In what Vogue is calling "the largest public fashion show in New York City history," the magazine will host a runway event at Lincoln Center on September 7 as part of the 2010 Fashion's Night Out initiative.

Showcasing current, fall 2010 runway trends to entice consumers to shop during Fashion's Night Out events (only three days later on the evening of Sept. 10), Vogue promises over 200 top models will walk in front of "nearly 1,500 guests."

"We felt it is important for people to see what wonderful fashion will be in stores at that moment," said Vogue editor Anna Wintour. "The show will focus on key trends we've identified for fall so that shoppers will have plenty of inspiration to join the fun during Fashion's Night Out."

Undoubtedly, Vogue's runway extravaganza will also be part of CBS's hour-long Fashion's Night Out special airing at 8 p.m. on Sept. 15.

Source: Getty

>> During Paris couture next week, Anna Wintour will meet with French Industry Minister Christian Estrosi to discuss ways to promote and finance up-and-coming French designers.  But Tuesday night, she was all about the impending venue change for New York Fashion Week.

Next month will be the last time the Tents go up in Bryant Park; Spring 2011 in September will be centered at Lincoln Center. While celebrating the move with the CFDA at Diane von Furstenberg's studio, Wintour noted that she was ready to leave Bryant Park: “I’m looking forward to it. I wish it was next week.” Von Furstenberg chimed in: "They didn't want us anymore, so we found a better place. The only way to deal with rejection is by shining."

"Not one party crasher, and it won't happen here either." »