>> Downtown separates with a utilitarian spin dominated the Fall 2012 collection for Topshop Unique. Outerwear — wool trench coats, double layer vests — felt right on-trend in oversized military silhouettes, while wide-leg trousers and slouchy skirts in leather provided a hint of '90s grunge. "The concept was trying to reinvent the uniform with a good mix of masculine and feminine," design manager Emma Farrow explained.
>> The Wong Kar-wai film, In The Mood for Love, and the works of Charlotte Perriand, Vanessa Beecroft and David Hockney were the reference points for Jonathan Saunders Fall 2012 collection. The result? A tight selection of swing frocks, equestrian coats, and full-flared skirts in a romantic palette of metallic jewel tones and high-contrast brights. "After last season's whimsical I wanted to do something that was more buttoned-up. The drugged-up housewife has changed into a very wealthy, eccentric young lady." the recent BFC/Vogue Fashion Fund winner explained.
>> Savannah and Sienna Miller may have cut their ties, but that doesn't mean Twenty8Twelve has lost any bit of It-girl charm. For Fall 2012, the collection's main references — Truman Capote and London in the 1960s — look fresh in a vivid palette of grenadine, violet, and kelly green. Shapes are youthful and easy-wearing, with leather jackets, draped wool skirts, printed pajama pants, and knit dresses all offering plenty of appeal.
>> "I always think a Winter show should actually be for Winter," creative director Emma Hill said backstage at her Fall 2012 show for Mulberry. And so, out came the fur-heavy coats, layered sweaters, and cozy wool skirts. But this wasn't your usual dreary cold weather offering. Hill looked to Where The Wild Things Are and The Lost Explorer for inspiration, and the result was a collection rich with fantasy: knits came brightly patterned, wools highly textured, and a smattering of dreamy prints drifted throughout.
>> Hello, darkness. Gustav Klimt and the art of early 20th century Vienna were the touch-points for Nicole Farhi's moody Fall 2012 collection. A dramatic palette of dusky green, charcoal, and bronze dominated; but the odd pop of mustard yellow and a smattering of sequins added spark. Silhouettes were structured, straightforward, and nicely architectural.
>> Paul Smith's classic menswear influence took a spiffy turn for Fall 2012. In a rich color palette — deep chocolate, olive, cobalt, and teal — and a plethora of super-luxe fabrics, this borrowed-from-the-boys collection felt decadent, warm, and plenty feminine.
>> Todd Lynn focused on the idea of "corrupted elegance" for Fall 2012. To that end, the designer worked a bit of deconstruction into his usual sculptural aesthetic: asymmetrical panels, draped silk, and geometric cutouts. There were some knock-out looks here, including some fluid silk suits in dusty mauves and deep brown. A long-sleeved dress in an intriguing burn-out star print and a luxe chocolate wool coat with an oversized folder collar were other winners.
>> This season, Stella McCartney decided to forgo her usual show in Paris for an intimate — and unorthodox — dinner presentation at London Fashion Week. Around 100 guests — including Kate Moss, Stella Tennant, Yasmin Le Bon, and Rihanna — attended the Saturday evening event, which began with a magic show and finished with a formal jazz band. The real excitement, however, came with the presentation of McCartney's Fall 2012 collection. While guests dined unassumingly at their tables, models burst forth from the crowd — flash mob-style — in an energetic display of table-dancing, chair-passing, and rowdy hip-shaking. "It was nice to see something different, something dramatic. The clothes looked great," guest Bianca Jagger exclaimed.
>> For Fall 2012, Alice Temperley looked to "the sumptuous colors and decadent subjects of the religious paintings and tapestries" of the Renaissance era. Indeed, it was a decadent offering — and plenty appealing. There were full-flare skirts in gold jacquard; delicate blouses detailed with intricate lace insets; and a plethora of metallic gowns embellished with Tudor-inspired embroidery. Draped dresses in solid-colored silk and some cozy-looking fur-and-leather coats provided balance, while the Russian-style hats that topped each look added just the right hint of romance.
>> There was a bit of something for everyone in Daniella Helyel's '70s-tinged "Trans-Siberian" Fall 2012 collection for Issa London. For those who lean towards the preppier side of things, there were capes in tailored wool or cableknit; for the more bohemian among us, flowing maxi dresses in swirling paisley; and — for those who aim to emulate Issa's most royal fanbase — a long-sleeved, full-length gown in bright red lace.
