London Fashion Week

Christopher Bailey had us at the heart prints that dotted trench coats and dresses coming down the runway for Burberry Fall '13. It was a skilled nod to the label's heritage — coats, leather, pencil skirts — all served up with Bailey's modern interpretation: high-impact pieces that incite interest without ever losing sight of what women want to wear. In this lineup, we got more sweetness, but there was a slicker, tougher counter to all those hearts, too — texture took shape as studded gromets sewn into the fringe that covered leather skirts and handbags — and among the standouts, there were the luxe leopard-print coats begging to be scooped up by Kate Moss or Alexa Chung.

Spain's Golden Age inspired the painterly strokes of pattern and embroidery in Peter Pilotto and Christopher De Vos's Fall 2013 collection. The offering, while perhaps a little darker in mood than the duo has shown in the past, was filled with no shortage of the lurid shades and pattern mixing that made the label famous. Boxy, masculine coats in red, mustard, and lavender were decorated with coordinating splotches of color, while cowhide jackets were stitched together with crisscrossing white cords. The sculptural shoulders and texture-laden knits were eye-catching, but perhaps the most visually striking pieces were the wildly printed puffer jackets.

Unlike the usual pastel-bright ladylike fare we're used to, Erdem's Fall '13 collection showed off the designer's darker — sexier — side. And we couldn't have imagined a more beautiful kind of mood swing. Black prevailed as the collection's primary source of "color," with flashes of neon lavender, green, and blue to keep it from veering into all-out gothic territory. Let's call this a case of textural dark romance, built upon equal parts black lace, floating chiffon, and polka-dot details, with ostrich feathers punctuating the sheerest of layers. To add to the drama, day dresses were remade for evening, complete with Victorian-inspired collars and capes, while velvet floral appliqués stood in as a richer kind of embellishment. See how Erdem Moralioglu took his Fall '13 collection to the dark side, right this way.

It's the kind of craftsmanship that you would typically only expect of couture that came down the runway for Christopher Kane's Fall 2013 collection. It's what Kane does best — looks that surprise, entertain, draw you in, and differentiate this lineup. The Fall 2013 collection is jam-packed with thoughtful, playful, and whimsical details that feel artistic and bold but wearable. Sharp outerwear with bold pops of blue and luxe fur finishes were just the primer for the urban-feeling camo prints and tough-girl kilts and leather that unfolded next. But that wasn't even the half of it — Kane's vision seemed to be on overdrive as look after look launched something new and distinct from the one that came before it. The urban warrior was followed with a textured story, where dresses were sculpted in swirls and patterns, then something more like floral appliqué, until the show culminated in a confection so full and brimming with delicate, full-bodied embellishment that the garment itself seemed to be living.

Inspired by the Spanish Golden Age, Peter Pilotto's Fall 2013 collection was filled with a bright color palette, modern silhouettes, and, of course, designers Christopher De Vos and Peter Pilotto's flair for creating some of the most unique and covetable prints around. The duo looked to El Greco, transposing the famous Spanish Renaissance artist's vibrant use of colors onto a number of sleek, formfitting sheath dresses, fit-and-flare minis, and tailored separates. Embroidered cropped bolero jackets emphasized the duo's inspiration point, while puffer coats were updated with magnetic colorful patterns. Meanwhile, printed trousers and oversize boxy coats injected a modern tilt into the designers' lineup, furthered by the flat patent oxfords they were paired with. The brand's celebrity fans, like Emma Watson, Miranda Kerr, and Kerry Washington, are sure to have a ball with some of these pieces on their next red carpet circuit.

Considering the front-row and the runway lineup, Unique Topshop's Fall '13 show is where the cool girls hang out. With the Tate Modern as its backdrop and Olivia Palermo, Kate Bosworth, and Demi Lovato as front-row fixtures, the stage was primed for covet-worthy wares to take their rightful place on the catwalk. And so be it: Cara Delevingne opened in a midriff-baring sweater top and lacquered A-line skirt. Most notable, though, was the integration (and application) of sequin and sparkle as an embellishment altogether ungirlie. High shine was key, but the assumed glitziness was subdued by way of sharp tailoring, luxe fur add-ons, and masculine outerwear counterparts. Even the most feminine dusty-pink sequined skirt seemed like fair game for the tougher downtown girl. Of course, after seeing Jourdan Dunn close out the show in a deep-burgundy-hued sequin jumpsuit, we're pretty sure that's the one Fall piece our wardrobe needs most. See the best looks to hit the Unique Topshop Fall '13 runway now.

Mary Katrantzou is not one to skimp on the experimental details, and her Fall 2013 collection was no exception. While some looks were more wearable than others — we can definitely see some of the more avant-garde pieces on the Met Gala red carpet — all of them were classically Katrantzou, bubbling with scenic photo prints, origami-style pleats, and strong, structured shoulders. Color-heavy, fitted pieces were tempered with slouchier silhouettes, and Katrantzou was careful to include black-on-black looks (like an asymmetrical sweater and leather pencil skirt) among the group of printed brights. Shoes were kept on the simple side, with an eclectic mix of ankle booties and strappy heels, and the models' hair was kept sleek and minimal (with short, blunt bangs) in order to showcase the beautiful looks. The somewhat darker palette of grays, blacks, and golds was a lovely departure from the neon hues in the designer's Spring collection, though the selection of striking, unconventional pieces remained the same. Click through to see Katrantzou's Fall '13 runway show now.

• Trends: Origami, structured shoulders, photo prints.
• Colors: Black, gray, and white; pops of blue, gold, and pink.
• Key look: The frothy black-and-gray photo-print finale dress.
• Beauty look: Slicked-back ponytails with short, blunt bangs; pale makeup and strong brows.
• Who should wear it: Perennial print lovers like Poppy Delevingne and Solange Knowles.

Judging from her clever takes on shape and prints, there's no doubt that Mary Katrantzou is one of London's most exciting young designers to watch. And after Sunday's dreamy, transportive Fall 2013 collection, Katrantzou has certainly further solidified that spot. This season, the designer bucked expectation and offered up pieces that were largely void of the in-your-face hues and geometric patterns that have become her calling card. Instead, she worked with a smoky palette of grays, blues, and deep rusts, that — thanks to structured satin sculpted with origami folds, billowing chiffon, and intricate tree-branch prints — resulted in a collection that was as powerful and moody as storm clouds gathering on a gray Winter day.