Like so many London Fashion Week designers, Antonio Berardi had a love affair with pink for Spring 2014. His show was full of the feminine shade, but textured finishes, sportswear-inspired sweaters and biker jackets stopped it from ever getting too girlie. Alongside the pink came rich red and white, cream, silver, and black on separates, rise-and-fall dresses, and oversize tops. Prints barely appeared at all, save for the odd dash of a metallic animal print and delicate embroidered blooms on some dresses. Really it was the fabric choices and clever panel work that gave the looks their intricate detail; stiff silk against soft chiffon and organza with leather, sheer stripes against opaque, and sleeves with big shoulders and stiffened panels.
It was a garden party for sure at Matthew Williamson, where the designer's Spring 2014 collection featured floral prints and ladylike silhouettes by the bushel (or bouquet). Reds were broken up by white and splashes of blue, and blossoms grew both big and small. There was a touch of another dimension, too, with daisies popping up and out on skirts and bomber jackets.
It wasn't all about flower power, though; graphic swirls of blue or black with white made a showing, and the animal planet was likewise represented. Dragonflies hummed over dresses and trousers, and a print that reminded this reviewer of abstract koi fish was also to be found on separates. Clearly, it's a party open to all.
Toting bags emblazoned with slogans like "You Buggin'" and "High Flyer," Sophia Webster's girls resembled cute insects for her Spring 2014 presentation. Nail art, natural makeup, and antenna-esque buns were the key elements of the look. Revlon nail ambassador Jenny Longworth created all manner of custom manicures. She explained, "The Sophia Webster girls were all about having fun, experimenting with nail art, and painting each other’s nails. I used a mixture of feminine pastels and iridescent shades to complement the 'insect slumber party' theme that inspired the collection." Spots and iridescent beetle-like shades were topped with 3D paper butterflies.
Lynsey Alexander added the finishing touches. "The look was very pure, innocent, young, and fresh-faced — sporty luxe. It was more about texture than color on the face," she said, using Revlon PhotoReady BB Cream ($11), Photo Ready Skinlights (UK only), and Cream Blush ($13) to add definition before finishing off with new lip shades (Mischievous and Complex) that will launch in 2014.
With wet, undone hair and loads of eyeliner, it could be expected that the inspiration would be grit and grunge for the Mulberry Spring 2014 beauty look. Instead, lead hairstylist Sam McKnight opted to point to lived-in and slept-in as his main adjectives for the hair and makeup, which looked gorgeous paired with the floral, feminine collection. Totally tousled strands were swept across models' faces in a deep side part after being doused in Frédéric Fekkai Coiff Bouffant Lifting and Texturizing Spray ($25) for body, WWD reports. As for the makeup, the emphasis was on eyeliner. Inky black framed models' eyes in a Twiggy-esque fashion, while face and lips were kept neutral.
For Spring 2014, L'Wren Scott had a Japanese vision that resulted in kimonos on the catwalk. In terms of the makeup, that Eastern style translated to sparkling eye shadow and a neutral pink pout. According to the face chart Instagrammed by the Grazia beauty team, Bobbi Brown used Sparkle Eye Shadow in Silver Lilac ($32) to give the lids an iridescent shimmer. Each model wore a jet-black wig cut in a short bob with blunt bangs to round out the look. For the nails, Rococo created three custom shades inspired by the florals in the collection: Electric Indigo (bright purple), Bento Box Red (classic candy red), and Dark Geisha (shimmering lavender).
When you think of Mary Katrantzou, if prints aren't the first thing that come to mind, color most certainly is. At the label's Spring 2014 runway show in London today, the designer reasserted her signature with an about-face from Fall's somber palette and a finale that walked to the upbeat tune of The Rolling Stones' "She's a Rainbow."
Katrantzou's models were certainly like a rainbow in piecework floral patterns of neon purple, fluorescent green, electric blue, acid yellow, and the hottest of pinks — often embellished with Swarovski crystals for maximum impact. Lest these aspects be missed, there were ruffles, too, as well as rhinestones, faux leather and lacing, ribbons, and bubble silhouettes so voluminous that they could (nearly!) rival those vibrant prints for attention.
Everything was coming up rosy on the Temperley London Spring 2014 runway. The makeup took inspiration from the fuchsia and pink tones in the collection. Lead makeup artist Lisa Eldridge revealed on Twitter that she used Sunday Riley Effortless Breathable Primer ($48) to give each model a flawless and fresh complexion, which was further played up with shimmering highlighter. The eyes, cheeks, and lips were finished with an array of rosy hues. The hair was styled in a mussed updo with wispy flyaways around the face and a hidden braid in back, that conjured the sweet innocence of our favorite childhood fairy tales.
There's no mistaking it — Topshop Unique is a high-street label that attracts a high-fashion crew. The proof is both on the runway and in the crowd, where you'll find Cara Delevingne on the catwalk and Kate Moss, Ashley Madekwe, and Anna Wintour queued up front row to see just what the cool-girl dress code will look like next season.
For Spring 2014, that look is a quirky, '70s-feeling garden-party girl who doesn't shy away from a statement hue or a little sparkle — but doesn't do "party dresses" or pumps. It's a lineup of juxtapositions that make it so cool (and so wearable); on the one hand, you have a beautifully embroidered peplum top, but it's paired with boyfriend jeans and leather sandals. Sportier cuts, boxy pullovers and ponchos, and breezy chambray gets the perfect counter with ankle-wrap gladiator heels, the kind of contrasts that add up to a killer downtown girl's wardrobe. And, since this girl doesn't do glitz, her dresses are, like Jourdan Dunn showed us, an easy, sexier-cut maxi dress that could take you day to night or dusted in bright embellishments and finished with flat sandals à la Cara's final look.
Alice Temperley looked to Sicily for inspiration for Spring 2014, but a rehash of last year's Dolce & Gabbana Sicilian love-in this was not. There was less of the ornate gold and more texture and print. The feeling was relaxed elegance with trapeze shapes, volume, and a soft color palette that included burgundy, lilac, mint, black, and white, plus the pink we've already seen so much of on the London runways. A petal print that merged into leopard spots was a standout, as were laser-cut hems with embroidered trims. Every camera in the place came out for a full black skirt covered in textured blooms teamed with an open-back silk tee.
If you've always associated the clad-in-black femme fatale with L'Wren Scott, the designer is urging you to reconsider for Spring 2014. The noir shade was present, but the colors that left more of an impact were the tomato reds, sunshine yellows, and crisp whites accented with the lilac and green of hanging wisteria vibes.
If you're getting the sense that her sexy lady has moved out of the nightclub and into the garden, you'd be right — and a Japanese one at that. Obi belts and stacked platforms reminded the viewer of a sexy geisha, while kimono sleeves and slit trains toyed with aspects of her traditional dress. The label has made the siren warmer and less threatening, though just as powerfully sensual.