Magdalena Frackowiak

>> Earlier this week, Anja Rubik and Sasha Knezevic celebrated their new new-look take on Austrian magazine 25 — the official launch issue features Constance Jablonski, Karlie Kloss, and Abbey Lee Kershaw on three separate covers, all styled by Barbara Martelo and photographed by Marcin Tyszka.

Sal Morale (who appears in the issue with girlfriend Maryna Linchuk) DJed the fete in an old Paris apartment, where fellow featured subjects like Heidi Mount, Karlie Kloss, Alana Zimmer, and Kasia Struss joined him.  The issue boasts an abundance of couture — “It is rare to get so many couture clothes in a magazine," Rubik told WWD — and comes in a limited-edition English version (2,000 copies) and a larger print run in German (50,000 copies). “It’s an Austrian magazine so it was important to keep a link between the first issue and Austria,” said Rubik, explaining fashion editorials inspired by artists Egon Schiele (photographed by Victor Demarchelier) and Gustav Klimt (featuring Eniko Mihalik).

Knezevic and Rubik are already hard at work on their next issue of the quarterly magazine; noted the latter: “One of our contributors will be Julia Restoin-Roitfeld."

[Editor's Note: I contributed to the issue.]

Viktor & Rolf are masters of illusion. Did you check out their Spring '10 collection? It played major mind games, hence why I praise it. Model of the moment Magdalena Frackowiak was lucky enough to play dress-up with the cheeky dresses for Dazed & Confused's February issue, while photog John Olins snapped her up. I especially love this gown with the large hole — mouse got your dress?

>> Thakoon Panichgul may be tiny, but his designs pack major punch.  His lower priced line, Thakoon Addition, just hit stores last week and is already selling like hotcakes, with a number of editors sporting the line at the Cruise 2010 shows.  As for his own Cruise 2010 line, Thakoon was all about texture — twisted dresses and tops and plenty of pleats.  Prints ranged from bright watercolors to faded florals, with some tie-dye mixed in for good measure.  The designer knows how to take care of a woman — when his Costume Institute Gala date Magdalena Frackowiak broke her heel in the middle of dinner, he missed Rihanna's performance to go grab a replacement.

>> Tommaso Aquilano and Roberto Rimondi had a tall order to fill for Spring 2009.  Before Gianfranco Ferre passed in 2007, his architectural-based label had ceased to become relevent — as Cathy Horyn put it, "It’s been a while since anyone [has] paid serious attention to the Ferre name."  So could the newly tapped designers bring it back to the forefront?

The general consensus says yes.  Nicole Phelps of Style.com was pleased: "They deserve high marks for this outing." Cathy Horyn of The New York Times, a Aquilano-Rimondi fan, loved the effort, with one caveat: "The designers distilled the essence of Ferre in a new, eye-catching way. Now to just refine the elements a bit more . . . " WWD felt the same: "Aquilano and Rimondi have the right ideas, but what they need now is a little restraint."

Suzy Menkes of the International Herald Tribune also echoed the same sentiment: "Not all the Ferré collection was approachable. Yet . . .  the two designers created the clothes and the buzz that will bring fashion life back to Ferré."  With another season under their belts, Aquilano and Rimondi could definitely hit the right stride at Ferre.
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>> It's hard to imagine being pregnant and designing hot little minidresses for other women to wear, but when you're Thea Bregazzi, one half of design duo Preen, and those hot little minidresses happen to be what your label is known for, that's just what you do.

The heavily expectant Thea stayed across the pond in London while her partner in design and life, Justin Thornton, carried on with the label's show today. He carried it well — everything went smoothly, save a slight wardrobe malfunction for Anja Rubik and the confusion that ensued at the end of the show, when Justin didn't appear at the end of the runway and no one knew when to start the final applause.

As for the clothes, the dresses with intricate paneled cutouts and peekaboo zipper slats, the piquante shots of tomato red, and the sexily laced up pleated skinny pants came together for a more refined collection than we have seen from Preen in the last couple of seasons. Maybe Thea should be pregnant more often . . .
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>> Alexander Wang's sweat-inspired Spring 2009 collection, featuring shiny-faced models, was quite appropriate — yesterday had the fashion crowd dripping from heat, and today, Tropical Storm Hanna blew in just in time for Alex's show.

Not that the weather would keep anyone away; Anna Wintour attended Alex's show for the first time ever — a symbol of his quick rise. As the lights went down, the sunglasses went on, and she only broke pose a couple of times — once to consult Virginia Smith's program, and the other to fiddle with her BlackBerry.

The show was definitely a different experience, now that Alex has moved on from Erin Wasson, collaborating with stylist Alastair McKimm instead, but all of the classic Wang elements — zippers, leather, a slouchy, downtown feel — were all there. The only major slip up was at the end, when all the models — stellar cast, I might add (Jourdan Dunn!) — took their final tour and got stopped up returning backstage. We're talking line of models, basically at a standstill, at the end of the show. Alex skipped out, did his usual jump and punch the air routine. And then Anna ran out.

To get the full experience, check out the runway video on Elle.com.
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>> If you're going to spend a lot of time bored on the subway, why not do it for pay, and look fabulous while you're at it?  That must have been stylist Edward Enninful's concept for the Fall 2008 Alberta Ferretti campaign, which features Anna Maria Jagodzinska and new talent Magdalena Frackowiak, Siri Tollerod, and Viktoriya Sasonkina juxtaposed in jewel tones with jaded expressions affixed on their faces.  The best shot Steven Meisel captured has to be of Siri, slumped over in plastic chair.
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>> Riccardo Tisci is taking a trip to Peru in August, and his anticipation birthed the Incan prints and alpaca blanket stripes that pepper his latest couture collection for Givenchy.

Highlighter shades of fuchsia and violet provided shocking punctuation amongst Tisci's usual color palette of neutrals.  The emerging trends of knee-length leggings, transparency, and lace were all present along with the signature Tisci for Givenchy leather jackets and oversized hats. But I have to say, amongst all the draped jersey and deconstructed shapes, the two standout looks were similar pale, choppily-fringed minidresses.  

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>> Usually Christian Lacroix's designs are a little too overwrought to speak to me, but something about this set sits just right. 

Maybe the scarlet backdrop is to blame, setting off all the intricate detailing with its vivid hue: the peekaboo lace sleeves, the bell-shaped cocktail dresses, the gossamer tufts; or maybe I've just gone buggy for Lacroix's insect-inspired fantasy world. If so, I'm not the only one: the attendees showered the designer with carnations at the end of the show.

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