Marc Jacobs Fall 2012

One thing's for sure — nothing is off limits or out of the realm of possibility when Marc Jacobs is at the helm. Set in a Rachel Feinstein-designed storybook-inspired castle-in-ruins Winter wonderland, he presented his Fall '12 lineup with more than just a little fashion fanfare. The first word that comes to mind? Hats! And lots of them, all by mastermind milliner Stephen Jones; each one more wonderfully whimsical than the one before. These wild toppers, in addition to the parade of rich, slightly oversized outerwear, giant safety pin closures, bejeweled square-toed shoes, luxe ostrich-skin handbags, and more, served as a serious testament to Marc's vivid imagination. All flights of fancy aside, though, there were ultra-wearable pieces peeking out from under the more fantastical garb. To this point, we spied cozy layered tweeds in muted tones, shimmery metallic pencil skirts in looser silhouettes, and slick cropped pants sent out in leather, brocade, and jacquard versions. Marc Jacobs's Les Misérables-meets-Dickensian disco-meets Alice in Wonderland Mad Hatter tea party collection certainly highlighted the fact that fashion, at its core, is whatever you make of it . . . and yes, wildly fun.

• Trends: rich textiles like brocade and jacquard, floppy hats, oversized outerwear, fur-accented accessories.
• Colors: Muted jewel tones — green, purple, ruby red, pink, slate gray, and black.
• Key Piece: Slightly oversized coats in luxe fabrics and cropped pants in every texture, from leather to brocade.
• Accessories: Fabulously fantastical hats in every color, square-toed shoes with crystallized buckles, long opera-length gloves with finger cutouts, and large boxy totes, some covered in fur, some made in decadent ostrich skin textures.
• Who Would Wear It: The fashion-daring set, like Anna Dello Russo.

>> On a winding runway decorated with a Winter-white cutout set, Marc Jacobs presented his Fall 2012 collection. Dakota Fanning was in attendance, as was Kim Gordon, Brad Goreski, and Jared Leto.

Right out the gate — or rather, right down the Rachel Feinstein-designed steps — the looks were eclectic, vaguely Victorian, and dizzingly-rich with detail. Extra-large Edwardian hats — made in real fur by Steven Jones — topped each ensemble, and nearly every look was injected with some element of sparkle. There were shorn-fur overcoats woven with metallic threads, dresses in shimmering brocades, and square-toed shoes with crystallized buckles. The whole thing was very Willy Wonka-meets-Mad Hatter, or — on second thought — very Charles Dickens on glitter. A stirring rendition of "Who Will Buy?", from the musical Oliver!, even played on the speakers.

If you looked past the theatrics, there were still some lovely pieces here. Cropped pants in jacquard, brocade, and leather were particularly appealing, as were some chunky, crochet-like knits and a series of off-the-shoulder black patchwork dresses. However, coats were the biggest message of all. They came in nearly every possible fabric and colorway, with extra-wide necklines, giant buttons, and silhouettes that puffed out at the hips.