Mary Katrantzou

Mary Katrantzou is not one to skimp on the experimental details, and her Fall 2013 collection was no exception. While some looks were more wearable than others — we can definitely see some of the more avant-garde pieces on the Met Gala red carpet — all of them were classically Katrantzou, bubbling with scenic photo prints, origami-style pleats, and strong, structured shoulders. Color-heavy, fitted pieces were tempered with slouchier silhouettes, and Katrantzou was careful to include black-on-black looks (like an asymmetrical sweater and leather pencil skirt) among the group of printed brights. Shoes were kept on the simple side, with an eclectic mix of ankle booties and strappy heels, and the models' hair was kept sleek and minimal (with short, blunt bangs) in order to showcase the beautiful looks. The somewhat darker palette of grays, blacks, and golds was a lovely departure from the neon hues in the designer's Spring collection, though the selection of striking, unconventional pieces remained the same. Click through to see Katrantzou's Fall '13 runway show now.

• Trends: Origami, structured shoulders, photo prints.
• Colors: Black, gray, and white; pops of blue, gold, and pink.
• Key look: The frothy black-and-gray photo-print finale dress.
• Beauty look: Slicked-back ponytails with short, blunt bangs; pale makeup and strong brows.
• Who should wear it: Perennial print lovers like Poppy Delevingne and Solange Knowles.

Judging from her clever takes on shape and prints, there's no doubt that Mary Katrantzou is one of London's most exciting young designers to watch. And after Sunday's dreamy, transportive Fall 2013 collection, Katrantzou has certainly further solidified that spot. This season, the designer bucked expectation and offered up pieces that were largely void of the in-your-face hues and geometric patterns that have become her calling card. Instead, she worked with a smoky palette of grays, blues, and deep rusts, that — thanks to structured satin sculpted with origami folds, billowing chiffon, and intricate tree-branch prints — resulted in a collection that was as powerful and moody as storm clouds gathering on a gray Winter day.

Check out all the pictures from Mary Katrantzou's Spring 2013 collection and come back soon for our full review.

One of the most anticipated — and definitely the most crowded — shows so far this London Fashion Week had to be that of Mary Katrantzou. Her legions of fans packed into the Topshop Show Space on Sunday like sardines, cameras in hand, just to catch a glimpse of what the Athens-born prints master had concocted for Spring 2013.

And they were not disappointed. Stamps and banknotes were Katrantzou's focal points this season and, wow, what a statement they made. Printed on crisp white fabrics, woven onto brocade, and stamped onto denim (via a collaboration with Current/Elliott), the designer swirled and mirrored a dazzling array of motifs taken from kroner, drachmas, Deutsche marks, British pounds, and postal stamps culled from around the world.

But prints this intriguing must be handled with care, and this is where Katrantzou shows her greatest strength. On sharply tailored silhouettes like straight-lined trousers, A-line skirts, and tent dresses (some of which were manipulated by flattering folds and pleats), the prints were allowed to shine just as much as the garments themselves — and neither was overwhelming. In fact, each pattern was so well placed and well thought out that the overall effect was graphic, crisp, and actually quite flattering.