Mary Katrantzou

Matthew Williamson

Demi-Couture Is On the Rise

>> Designers are clocking an increased demand for the high-end side of ready-to-wear — demi-couture, as it's called.

>> Designers are clocking an increased demand for the high-end side of ready-to-wear — demi-couture, as it's called. Mary Katrantzou's Jewel Tree dress, left, which required four studios putting in more than 150 hours to make, caused one seamstress to cry, and retails at $14,200, sold 18 units this Fall. Matthew Williamson president Joseph Velosa reports: "Pieces over $5,000 now account for six percent of our business. To put that into context, two years ago we sold nothing at that price." And Azzedine Alaia joined the couture schedule in July, showing what he called "semi-couture" — pieces which could be purchased as-is — to much acclaim.

Although these clothes have price tags that run mid-four to five figures, they are sold off the rack through the typical retail channels, rather than involving the time commitment of multiple atelier fittings like a couture piece does. Katrantzou's Jewel Tree dress, for instance, is currently available on Net-a-Porter and can be delivered next day.

Jason Wu, who has a houndstooth tweed overcoat with gold bullion embroidery for $15,000 and started using Paris ateliers like Lesage and Lemarie a few seasons ago, says: "Between all the designer collaborations and everything that's going on, we need to give people a reason to buy. There are some things that just can't be done for cheaper."

And Prabal Gurung, who is selling a hand-painted organza and braided chiffon gown for $15,000, adds: "There's a customer who wants this stuff, but it's like one in each city. You hope to sell a lot, but five total is great."

Celebrity Style

How to Wear Next Season's Bold Prints, Right Now

With all the bold, subversive prints we saw on the Spring '12 runways, it's no surprise that some celebs are getting in on the trend a little early.

With all the bold, subversive prints we saw on the Spring '12 runways, it's no surprise that some celebs are getting in on the trend a little early. We spotted a few of our fashion favorites in vibrant mixed-media patterns on the red carpet recently, and we truly can't get enough of them. Alexa Chung and Leelee Sobieski both stepped out in Mary Katrantzou's signature elaborate prints, pairing their respective frocks with black heels and minimal jewelry, while Kate Bosworth attended an InStyle event in a stunning Peter Pilotto sheath dress, styled with cobalt blue pumps and a nude clutch. What's great about each piece is that it stands out immediately, and needs little styling; with so much intricate detailing to focus on, it's best to keep shoes and accessories simple. To work the trend yourself, check out our tips below — and then get shopping.

  • Mixed motif pieces can work for day or evening; a printed blouse looks office-appropriate when tucked into a slim-fitting pencil skirt, while a bold dress can turn heads out at night with a great pair of neutral heels.
  • Keep accessories to a minimum, if not nonexistent. A print this eye-catching needs little else to compete with. Opt for a simple envelope clutch or chain-strap purse, and one cocktail ring or thin bangle.
  • Choose a printed silhouette that flatters your best feature. If you love your legs, pick a dress or skirt that has the most ornate detailing near the hemline. If you want to show off your arms or décolletage, a piece with the most printing at the top will help do the trick.

London Fashion Week

Mary Katrantzou Spring 2012

It was an early 9 a.m.
Mary Katrantzou: Spring 2012

It was an early 9 a.m. showing during London Fashion Week, but we're sure no one was dozing off during Mary Katrantzou's Spring runway show. The season's bold prints trend couldn't come at a more fitting time for the designer known for her signature bold graphic patterns. The collection, based off of Katrantzou's nature-versus-nurture theme, was exemplified through bold floral, bird, and coral reef prints splashed on structural one-shoulder and asymmetric dresses made in modern high-tech fabrics. Printed pants and colorblocked blazers provided even more partywear inspiration; as did the bright lipstick and metallic shoes provided by Christian Louboutin. We can't wait to see which celebs will wear her designs on the red carpet. More details from the vibrant collection below.

  • Trends: structural print dresses, asymmetrical hemlines, printed trousers.
  • Colors: red, orange, blue, green, yellow.
  • Key Look: we loved all of the short printed dresses.
  • Accessories: a colorful array of metallic peep-toe sandals by Christian Louboutin.
  • Who Would Wear It: girls who crave unique prints with a twist like Keira Knightley and Diane Kruger.
Keira Knightley

Venice Film Festival Fashion Roundup — Part II

The fashion at Venice Film Festival is gaining momentum on day two.
Keira Knightley and Abbie Cornish at Venice Film Festival 2011

The fashion at Venice Film Festival is gaining momentum on day two. Keira Knightely made her first appearance at the festivities wearing a stunning print dress by up and coming designer Mary Katrantzou. Abbie Cornish stunned in a gorgeous black and purple ombre gown by Atelier Versace, and top model Natasha Poly made a show-stopping appearance in Gucci. Such standout, statement looks and there's a lot more where that came from. Check out the slideshow for more enviable red carpet looks from Madonna, Kate Winslet, and even a body-con outfit from Bar Refaeli.

Fall 2011

Mary Kantrantzou Skipping Resort Collection Because of "Massive" Fall 2011 Orders

>> A couple of weeks ago, Mary Katrantzou said of her Fall 2011 collection: “I got a feeling that with some people, something clicked, and it was very real. They came to the showroom and you felt that it was very positive — I was amazed to feel that response.” It might have to do with the fact that she introduced retailer-friendly knitwear for Fall 2011 — “It brings a completely different story for people to buy into” — but whatever it is, it seems it's paying off.

>> A couple of weeks ago, Mary Katrantzou said of her Fall 2011 collection: “I got a feeling that with some people, something clicked, and it was very real. They came to the showroom and you felt that it was very positive — I was amazed to feel that response.” It might have to do with the fact that she introduced retailer-friendly knitwear for Fall 2011 — “It brings a completely different story for people to buy into” — but whatever it is, it seems it's paying off. Katrantzou is skipping her planned Cruise 2012 collection because of "massive Fall orders," Style.com's Meenal Mistry reports. [@MeenalMistry]

Kate Bosworth