Narciso Rodriguez Fall 2012

Narciso Rodriguez stuck with his signature structured silhouettes for Fall '12, and this time, he built out the form-fitted figure into silky crepe dresses, colorblocked in geometric patterns of rusted brick reds, tangerine oranges, and chartreuse greens. In addition to the more "billowy" looks, he also sent out bustier-inspired, nipped-waist versions that accentuated the body in artfully draped folds of fabric. For a mix of sophisticated sheaths and polished daytime looks, Narciso included tailored trousers, luxe leather gloves, graphic-print tops, and a handful of covetable oversized trapeze and bell-shaped wool and felt coats. As for accessories, the designer impressed with his first-ever line of shoes and handbags — we were especially taken with the two-tone pointy-toe boots making turns on the catwalk. In a nutshell? The clean, chic designs juxtaposed against rich Fall colors let Narciso's impeccable cuts and shapes shine through; for more details, read below.

• Trends: Silky structured dresses, long bias-cut dress trains, and oversized trapeze and bell-shaped coats.
• Colors: Chartreuse, chocolate brown, rusted brick, tangerine, black, and russet orange.
• Key Piece: Super-structured, form-fitting sheaths; the tangerine-hued silk crepe dress with a bias-cut train.
• Accessories: Pointy-toe boots and heels in two-tone palettes, ultra-textured handbags, leather gloves.
• Who Would Wear It: The modern, sophisticated girl with a flare for daring cuts, like front-row attendee Claire Danes, Rachel Weisz, and Zoe Saldana.

>> Fall 2012 had Narciso Rodriguez referencing some pretty varied inspiration: "Collaging, collecting, color, film stills, many artists, the film world," the designer listed after his show. For a less-disciplined type, this kind of vague assortment might run the risk of turning into a directionless jumble. Luckily, Rodriguez is nothing if not a minimalist, and so these pieces were bold, cohesive, and forward-thinking. The designer emphasized volume this season, working sculptural folds, architectural draping, and trapeze shapes into his signature silhouettes. Colorblocking — in a robust palette of green, tangerine, and red — was used to artful effect.

This season also marks the debut of Rodriguez's new accessory and shoe collection. In luxe leather, exotic skins, and enticing silhouettes, they were a gorgeous addition to an already-strong collection.