Nicola Formichetti

>> The womenswear debut of new Mugler creative director Nicola Formichetti tomorrow will be marked by another debut: that of Lady Gaga on the runway. The singer, who Formichetti also styles, tweeted: "I'm making my debut as a runway model, walking in the MUGLER PARIS FASHIONSHOW 3/2. I directed the show music, [and will be] previewing [new song] 'Government Hooker.'" Six roving cameras will also show backstage preparations 30 minutes before the livestream on Mugler's Facebook page. [@ladygaga, WWD]

>> Thierry Mugler and new Mugler creative director Nicola Formichetti have more than a couple of things in common — neither studied fashion or have any formal design training, and both have strong ties to the pop culture world: Mugler directed and costumed the 1992 George Michael “Too Funky" music video, and more recently did costumes for Beyonce's 2009 tour, while Formichetti works as Lady Gaga's stylist. As Formichetti sums it up: “He was a kind of pop culture punk in a fashion world — and that’s me."

But despite all the similarities, Formichetti was apprehensive about taking the job: "I thought, How can you do something better than Thierry Mugler? He was a fashion god." He continued: “At first I thought I couldn’t do anything better than he did, so I didn’t want to do it. And then I said, 'F*ck it, I’m going to do my thing.'”

So how is he attacking his new role? He oversees two design directors: Sebastien Peigne, a 10-year Balenciaga veteran of Balenciaga, for women’s, and Romain Kremer, who has shown experimental looks under his own label since 2005, for men’s. Formichetti knows how to sketch, he says, but he prefers to work like a stylist, manipulating the clothes and working as a team with Peigne and Kremer to build the desired image. He also looks to the streets and friends for input and inspiration: “I feel more like a curator than a designer. It’s all about different characters and collaborations.”

One of those friends giving input? None other than Lady Gaga, who he says will be involved in his debut women's collection at the upcoming Paris Fashion Week. But she doesn't have a contract with the brand: “It’s me and her just having fun and getting very inspired from the idea of Mugler. She’s very much involved, more in the early stages.” And though she wasn't front row at the men's show today (she created its soundtrack), Formichetti has already created custom Mugler costumes for her upcoming album art, videos, and performances.

The label will be called Mugler instead of Thierry Mugler under Formichetti, and he's reining in his editorial and consulting work, aside from his role as fashion director of Vogue Hommes Japan. "I want people to get excited again, not only fashion people,” Formichetti says of his vision. “I’m not here to re-create what [Thierry Mugler] did. It was perfect for the time. I’m going to do something for today and the future . . . I want to give dreams and fantasy and all those things — and I want people to wear those clothes.”

And he's big on online — forget the usual magazine exclusives, seasonal campaigns and geographic rollouts: “I want to be global, but I want to be digital, instant, direct. I don’t want it to be a ‘normal’ fashion brand. We are always punk and outsider. The great thing about the online world is it’s instant: You get feedback; the feelings of consumers and fans.”

>> Earlier this week, Cathy Horyn revealed that in preparation for his first show as Thierry Mugler creative director next week, Nicola Formichetti was in Montreal photographing his "muse," Rick Genest, who has his entire body tattooed to resemble a skeleton. Formichetti found Rico, as he is known, on Facebook.

Now we have a visual to go with that inspiration. Mugler just released the official image below from Formichetti's "Anatomy of Change"-themed collection — debuting on Jan. 19 during the Paris men's shows — and promises that in the lead-up to the show next Wednesday, more will be released on the Mugler website.

>> In efforts to rejuvenate his business, Giorgio Armani has entered into a multimillion-dollar partnership with Lady Gaga. The relationship is being shepherded by Armani's niece Roberta Armani, who heads up VIP relations for the company; she contacted Gaga's stylist Nicola Formichetti last November after seeing the singer perform live at the American Music Awards in Los Angeles, wanting to see if Lady Gaga would consider wearing Armani for the Grammy Awards. Giorgio Armani sketched out three designs for the occasion — all of which Gaga ended up wearing.

It is unusual for Armani to design specifically for one person — brand loyalists like Cate Blanchett and Michelle Pfeiffer typically chose existing outfits from the collections — but, Roberta Armani says, "It wouldn't be possible to give Gaga a look from the collection because she wears pieces of art. It's theatrical." She adds that Lady Gaga has helped the company think younger: "A huge company like Giorgio Armani has the duty to always be alert to trends and what appeals to young people. It helped to see how the world is through Lady Gaga, the way she uses Facebook and Twitter."

Post-Grammys, Gaga reached out to Armani about her Alejandro video — she wanted tight black military-style leather suits for the male dancers; the suits not only showed up in the video, but in the Emporio Armani men's fashion show in June (the "Alejandro" video played on the runway backdrop). Armani has since dressed Lady Gaga for the MTV Video Music Awards, her appearance on American Idol, and for her "Monster Ball" concert tour. He's soon to start working on costumes for her concert in Italy in December. But the two have yet to meet.

>> Lady Gaga on Her Stylist Nicola Formichetti For Thierry Mugler — Lady Gaga reacted to the recent appointment of her stylist, Nicola Formichetti, as the creative director of Thierry Mugler. "Blood pumps through Nicola's veins like perfume and cigarettes. His brain throbs with misfit royalty, glamour as punk survival, attitude as liberation, style as revolution," said Gaga. "Thierry Mugler has a way with legendary lifestyle and Nicola is just that: Epic Lifestyle, Freakdom, Gorgeous or Die . . . Nicola Formichetti is Fashion's Freedom. I love him, my friend the genius, my collaborator, more than any piece of clothing or closet I possess. But don't tell him I said that, he'll die. He picked them all out." [Nylon]

>> Thierry Mugler has finally confirmed the rumors: Nicola Formichetti, most widely known as Lady Gaga's stylist, is the house's new men's and women's wear creative director. He will oversee Sebastian Peigne, a 10 year Balenciaga veteran and Mugler's new women's head designer, and Romain Kremer, who has shown experimental men's looks since 2005 and has been named Mugler's new men's head designer.

Formichetti, who will show his first collection for Fall 2011, succeeds Rosemary Rodriguez. He is also fashion director of Vogue Hommes Japan and a contributing editor of V, Dazed & Confused, and Another Magazine; a Mugler spokeswoman said he would continue his editorial and celebrity work.

“We were looking for a young talent who could really bring new energy to the brand,” said Joel Palix, director general of the Mugler company. “Nicola is a multicultural, techno-savvy expert involved in fashion, communication, image and entertainment. He and the appointed talented designers will represent a new direction for French fashion."