Alessandro Dell'Acqua has a penchant for mixing feminine with masculine, and for Spring 2013 he worked those juxtaposing forces into a mostly crisp lineup of boxy collared tops, round-shouldered jackets, t-shirt dresses, and superslim pencil skirts. In mixed panels of lace, jacquard, and sheer knits they were plenty appealing, and — at their most successful — felt sporty and fresh.
Alessandro Dell'Acqua's No. 21 Fall 2012 collection is a revelation of utterly feminine detail crafted in the coolest way possible. It's not easy to carry off sequins nonchalantly, but Dell'Acqua's juxtaposition of the sparkle and rugged leather belts cinched at the waist is just an example of how the designer plays with extremities of luxury and, on the other hand, the ease of modern dressing. We get the decadence of lace and sexiness of sheer pared down as tweedy textures and sportier silhouettes are layered up underneath. There's a sense of wearability in everything, thanks to deconstruction — Dell'Acqua doesn't reveal head-to-toe sequins or head-to-toe sheer that's hard to pull off. The appeal comes from the mix and match, the texture play, the clever proportions that women want to wear now. Of course, in considering what women want to wear now, Dell'Acqua astutely includes a nod to menswear — bold-colored suits in simple silhouettes, outerwear that has that perfect masculine edge. Add to that the designer's newly launched footwear that debuted alongside the collection — ankle-strap platforms — and streamlined envelope clutches in hand, and this collection has cool-girl uniform written all over it.
- Trends: Menswear, lace, sequin embellishment, split hemlines, gloves, sheer, tweed.
- Colors: Black, white, red, nude, gray, blue-green.
- Key Piece: We love the cool-girl effect of lace, sequins, and sheer materials layered over more substance and anchored with wide leather belts.
- Accessories: Leather gloves, Dell'Acqua's platforms, jeweled charms hanging from the waist, slim, streamlined clutches.
- Who Would Wear It: It's the perfect mix of edgy and feminine that would make girls like Kate Bosworth, Rachel Bilson, and Zoe Saldana fans.
>> Alessandro Dell'Acqua tapped "Queen Elizabeth in her private life, particularly when she is gardening in the country, but in a contemporary way," as his inspiration for Fall 2012. The designer also expanded on the menswear influence he focused on for Pre-Fall, working in masculine fabrics and some sharp sartorial tailoring into his signature fit-for-an-Italian-screen-siren aesthetic. Adding an element of girlie sparkle — and Queenly glamour? — were mini-dresses embellished with holographic sequins, delicate lace, and multi-colored rhinestones.
>> After losing trademark rights to his name last June when he publicly sounded off against the label's owners, Alessandro Dell'Acqua is making a return to fashion with a new collection, dubbed N° 21. The name comes from the designer's birthday on Dec. 21, and it's also his lucky number.
Dell'Acqua is taking advantage of the opportunity to start with a clean slate. He told WWD: “I looked back at what I did in the past and decided to put the focus on wearable, every day clothes more than on eveningwear."
The first 80-piece collection, which spans dresses to knitwear to outerwear, will debut at the upcoming Fall 2010 Milan Fashion Week with a small runway show.