We interviewed Ohne Titel designers Alexa Adams and Flora Gill at the 2010 New York Fall Fashion Week. Their new collection is influenced by Victorian silhouettes and Old World techniques but with a harder edge - creating modern shapes and textures with mixed mesh and a more athletic form. Think 19th century shape but sleek and easy to wear.
Influenced by 19th Century shapes, Ohne Titel designers Alexa Adams and Flora Gill took an athletic spin on Victorian style for fall 2010, toughening up Edwardian ideas and adding military details to give the collection the strong and sleek look for which the pair has become known.
"The total idea was this sort of Victorian silhouette. We wanted to take some of the shapes and even some of the textures and modernize it in an interesting way," Adams told us backstage after the runway show. The theme was best illustrated in the graphic netting used in leggings and paneled dresses. For this Adams and Gill explained they used old world lace-making techniques on a series of meshes, then magnified the pattern to create an exaggerated lace—a look which stole the show and provided a constant theme throughout.
Overall the collection was powerful yet approachable and utterly wearable. Some of the designers' favorite looks will no doubt be flying off shelves come fall—most notably a all-mesh dress with matching mesh leggings, a black fox and shearling jacket with a black leather belt, jogging-style slouch pants, cropped leather jackets, and the leather and net booties designed with Cesare Paciotti.
Gill told us the most gratifying part of creating clothes is to see strangers on the street wearing Ohne Titel, and, with this collection, we're pretty sure she's going to have one incredible fall season.
The Ohne Titel Fall 2010 runway bravely combined textures and fabrics like mesh netting, velvet, fox hair, wools and knits — and pulled it all together into a beautiful, wearable collection. Massive leather belts at the waist, shearling moto jackets, and menswear trousers are just a few of the runway trends. Stay tuned for FabTV's exclusive interview with Ohne Titel's hot designer duo, Alexa Adams and Flora Gill!Like what you see? Watch more FabTV.
>> Ohne Titel has the industry rapt: one look at the front row — scattered with the likes of Suzy Menkes, Hamish Bowles, Cecilia Dean, Cathy Horyn, Stefano Tonchi, and Carine Roitfeld in her first appearance of the week — is a testament to that. But this season, Alexa Adams and Flora Gill were ready to win over more than just the editorial crowd; they focused on keeping prices down, producing wearable pieces, and growing their clientele.
Starting with "nineteenth century shapes and details" and adding their own utilitarian twist, out came streamlined knits, net skirts, and velvet jackets in moss green, gray, and black. Stylist Alastair McKimm helped the designers pair everything with patchwork tights and strapped wedge boots, the latter part of their ongoing collaboration with Cesare Paciotti.
If Flora and Alexa are looking for more fans, they definitely appear to have won over their models: Maryna Linchuk made her first Fashion Week appearance at the show, dancing as she entered the backstage area after walking; Constance Jablonski, too, gave a happy little shimmy after her runway loop.
The Ohne Titel Fall 2010 runway bravely combined textures and fabrics like mesh netting, velvet, fox hair, wools and knits -- and pulled it all together into a beautiful, wearable collection. Massive leather belts at the waist, shearling moto jackets, and menswear trousers are just a few of the runway trends. Stay tuned for FabTV's exclusive interview with Ohne Titel's hot designer duo, Alexa Adams and Flora Gill!
Alexander Wang Takes Home 2009 Swiss Textile Award; Kate Mulleavy On Why Her Label Is Called "Rodarte," Not "Mulleavy"
>> Alexander Wang is experiencing quite the winning streak — he was awarded the CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund of $200,000 last November, the 2009 CFDA Swarovski Womenswear winner this past June, and now he's taking home the 2009 Swiss Textiles Award, a prize of about $150,000, to go towards international development. Wang becomes the second American designer in a row to win the Swiss Textiles Award, following after Rodarte, who were the first American winners ever last year.
The jury this year, chaired by Isabel Toledo, apparently had a tough time making a decision — Wang's fellow finalists this year were Peter Pilotto, Erdem, Thakoon, Alexis Mabille, and Ohne Titel, who will each receive a prize of approximately $6,000.
Anna Wintour hosted an annual event for the CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund finalists Wednesday night in her West Village townhouse. The ten designers gather chez Wintour to showcase fashion fund-sponsored design projects and mingle with past finalists and current CFDA members.
This year Google's Marissa Mayer was the guest of honor, as each finalist was challenged with designing pieces inspired by the Google search engine. (In 2008 and 2009 the project was sponsored by L'Oreal Paris color cosmetics.)
Designers arrived with models (Alexa Adams and Flora Gill of Ohne Titel with Dree Hemingway) and actresses (Waris Ahluwalia of House of Waris with Rose Byrne) to show off their one-of-a-kind creations. George Esquivel dressed Kemp Muhl in colorful "Google shoes" with search box back tags, and Wayne Lee designed a neoprene vest that could carry a 15 inch laptop.
Although we mentioned the star-studded cover story, our personal favorite sitting from the November issue of Vogue, on newsstands today, is that introducing the ten 2009 CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund finalists.
Today Vogue.com has interviews with each of the 2009 finalists—Sophie Theallet, House of Waris, Ohne Titel, Wayne, Esquivel Shoes, Monique Péan, Gary Graham, Spurr, Patrik Ervell, and Alabama Chanin. “We had very strong applicant pool this year, particularly among the jewelers,” said Vogue's Anna Wintour in a statement. “The ten finalists we selected are a talented, diverse group, who are building healthy independent businesses in challenging times.”
The winner, who will be paired with an industry mentor and receive a $200,000 cash prize, and two runners-up will be announced at an event on November 16 in New York.
Alexa Adams (left) and Flora Gill with artist Tauba Auerbach.
Source: Norman Jean Roy/Vogue
>> Ohne Titel's Alexa Adams and Flora Gill told Fashionista backstage that their Spring 2010 collection was their strongest yet, and they weren't kidding. Inspired by "the graphic lines, lush textures, and bold colors in Egyptian reliefs and sculptures," according to their show notes, Adams and Gill adapted their signature tailoring and body-con sensibilities to span an oxymoronic look of primitive modernity. They elaborated to The Cut: "We looked at a lot of wall painting and sculptures, and so we’re kind of playing with taking those same kind of proportions and applying them on the body."
Lace-up heels, flats, and thigh-high boots done in collaboration with Cesare Paciotti are sure to have the shoehounds drooling, and the prevalent texture in the collection — including patches of multicolored hand embroidery — was exquisite. Alastair McKimm, who worked with Alexander Wang the last two seasons, styled, and both Cathy Horyn and Visionaire's Cecilia Dean appeared front row.