New York 09/12/09. WireImage
>> Rick Owens Isn't Concerned with Being Copied —Designers are having a Rick Owens moment, New York Times's Ruth La Ferla asserts today, from Rag & Bone to Ohne Titel. It makes sense, Karlo Steel, partner at Atelier boutique in New York: “We’re coming out of a period that was very flamboyant. Fashion’s pendulum is swinging away from that now in a direction that is a bit anti-material.” Owens, for his part, took little heed at the thought — “when something’s in the air, no one can really own it" — except to say: "Suffice to say that it’s motivation for me to do my best to move forward.” [NY Times]
>> Laura and Kate Mulleavy of Rodarte became the first American designers to take home the 100,000 euro Swiss Textile Award last year, and the 2009 nominees are half American brands this time around: Thakoon Panichgul, Ohne Titel, Alexander Wang, Erdem, Alexis Mabille, and Peter Pilotto among them.
A winner will be announced Nov. 12, but in the meantime, Wang, who's been on an winning streak with the 2009 Swarovski Award for Womenswear and the 2008 CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund Award under his belt, recently spoke to Vogue about how he's gotten so far in such a short time.
He's known for his model selection now, but in the beginning, they came from Craigslist.
"In one of the first pictures we did, the model, who we found on Craigslist, was just wearing a sweater, slouching, and smoking a cigarette. People identified with her then, and she hasn’t changed much since.”
The CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund top-10 nominees have been announced and it's filled with major talent. The wide range of genius includes eco-conscious creators, Monique Pean and Alabama Chanin's Natalie Chanin, edgy designers Flora Gill and Alexa Adams of Ohne Titel, and even men's footwear extraordinaire, George Esquivel for Esquivel Shoes — stiff competition! The chosen one and two runners-up will be announced at the annual gala on Nov. 16. The prize? Cash and mentoring from the industry's crème de la crème.
(L-R: Ohne Titel, Alabama Chanin, and Sophie Theallet)
To see who else made the cut, read more
>> This year's ten CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund finalists have just been announced — they range from the eco-conscious (Monique Pean, Alabama Chanin) to cobblers (Esquivel Shoes) to straight-up womenswear designers (Sophie Theallet, Wayne, Ohne Titel, Gary Graham). Anna Wintour noted, “We had very strong applicant pool this year, particularly among the jewelers" — here's looking at lucky jewelry nominees Pean and House of Waris. The winner and runners-up, who are bestowed with cash prizes and industry mentorship, will be announced Nov. 16 at the annual gala.
>> It was a three-tone show for Ohne Titel this morning: black, gray, or brown, but it contrasted quite nicely with the light, bright white space; the only pops of color in the room came from the varicolored macaroons being served beforehand. Quite the show for the newly-minted 2009 Ecco Domani Fashion Foundation winners. The model cast was excitingly blue-chip — Liu Wen! Constance Jablonski! Lakshmi Menon! Eniko Mihalik! — it must be those unzipped knee-exposing stretch pants they're all gunning to take home; that and the over-the-knee, ruffled-top, lace-up back leather boots Alexa Adams and Flora Gill did in conjunction with Cesare Paciotti.
The designers say they went "darker" with "armorial" accents this season; along with the tight-fitting knit bondage dresses, the pieces fitted with studs, what looked like washers, and other assorted metallic elements organized in a pattern that reminded me of an art deco skyscraper, stood out. Also of note: Alastair McKimm, who styled Alexander Wang last season and this season, also styled this show.
At the Ohne Titel show slinky silks and knits were bound close to the body and, in some cases, layered or draped at the chest. The palette was almost entirely black, grey, and chocolate. Trousers unzipped diagonally across the knees (some were leather). Platforms were wrapped in chains, pointy, and severe. Stay tuned for our gallery from the show...
>> Fall 2009 is "the make or break season" for small designers, according to Eric Wilson of The New York Times. Stores are reducing their orders by 20 percent or more for Fall, and some are already trying to cancel their Spring orders, which puts small businesses, especially those without independent financial backing, in a tenuous position. Basically, Wilson points out, "The more stores that close, the more designers will follow." And in show season, the cost of samples and putting on a show doesn't help with the strain.
The recipients of Ecco Domani's 2009 Fashion Foundation awards have been announced. The womenswear category winners are Lyn Devon, Matthew Ames, Cushnie et Ochs by Carly Cushnie and Michelle Ochs, and Ohne Titel by Alexa Adams and Flora Gill. Corpus, by Jerrod Cornish and Keith Richardson, took the honor in menswear, and jeweler Monique Péan received the prize in the accessories group.
In addition, Bodkin Brooklyn designers Eviana Hartman and Samantha Pleet were granted an inaugural award for sustainable design. Each emerging label will receive a $25,000 grant towards their show at NY Fashion Week in February. They join the list of past beneficiaries, which includes Alexander Wang, Zac Posen, and Rodarte. Congratulations to all — we can't wait to see more from these talented designers!