>> This month, Vogue Russia September 2008 celebrates the top Russian models in "10 Years Later" by pitting childhood photos taken ten years ago against recent photos taken by Terry Tsiolis. Sasha Pivovarova, Natasha Poly, Snejana Onopka, Vlada Roslyakova . . . they're all there — and if you're looking for a model who went through an awkward phase, you'll be severely disappointed.
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While 70 percent of you think going braless a la Kate Moss is a huge no-no, 30 percent of you think it's fab. So for the minority, I'm here to deliver up a realistic way to look au natural without offending the person in front of you. While the majority is probably wondering why in the world anyone would want to look braless, it's worth knowing that in the modeling industry, bras are optional, and in fact, being sans bra is preferred. So models and wannabes, listen up!
To learn how to look braless in a bra, read more
Yves Saint Laurent's jersey bustier dress, worn here on the runway by Olga Sherer, is surely the hit of the season. Everyone from Julianne Moore to Gwyneth Paltrow has worn it to red carpet events. I would love to be a part of the YSL-wearing clan, but my paycheck isn't suited for that type of mega-spending. I'm pretty sure you're on the same page.
To see the look for less, read more
>> Amongst significantly less hubbub — no Net-a-Porter selling his clothes right off the runway this time — Roland Mouret debuted his second collection yesterday under his new RM by Roland Mouret moniker. The new set of dresses are definitely cut from the Mouret cloth — sheaths tailored with precision, oragami shapes — but for a man who's been using the same silhouettes since 2005, it's time to grow the aesthetic, not stand still in time.
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>> Jean Paul Gaultier was high energy yesterday at his Fall 2008 Couture show, exuberantly explaining his choice of outfit to Hilary Alexander pre-show, and running through the fluorescent green laser beams that panned the runway post-show, poking Coco Rocha on the way.
For all of JPG's exuberance, I am less than excited about this sci-fi, cage-inspired outing. Underneath all the decoration were a few solid pieces, namely a coral lace-like cage dress worn by Patricia Schmid and a tux suit worn by Sasha Pivovarova, but for the most part, a lot of it ended up looking less than luxe, especially if croc was involved.
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>> Alessandra Facchinetti's first couture collection at Valentino represents a nerve-racking, generational hand-off, but Giorgio Armani was there in the front row to lend support and represent the old guard.
The collection had the palpable feel of a different designer, as it should — more structure and pared-down tailoring, with most of the detail left to the back of the garments, and more subdued colors than the pastels Valentino had been playing with. However, Alessandra did stay true to the three most guiding parts of the Valentino aesthetic: femininity, ruffles, and of course, Valentino red. In fact, that same Valentino red painted the final look of the collection — a stunning chiffon number.
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>> Usually Christian Lacroix's designs are a little too overwrought to speak to me, but something about this set sits just right.
Maybe the scarlet backdrop is to blame, setting off all the intricate detailing with its vivid hue: the peekaboo lace sleeves, the bell-shaped cocktail dresses, the gossamer tufts; or maybe I've just gone buggy for Lacroix's insect-inspired fantasy world. If so, I'm not the only one: the attendees showered the designer with carnations at the end of the show.
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>> Transparency is still the word, in John Galliano's mind. The beanie-sporting designer had Lisa Fonssagrives, wife to Irving Penn and oft-credited as the first supermodel, in mind when producing his typical voluminous dresses, but with layers of light chiffon, rather than the heavier, stiffer fabrics Christian Dior couture has boasted in recent seasons.
Frequent collaborator Stephen Jones, meanwhile, looked to Eduardo Garcia Benito, famous for his '20s Vogue cover illustrations of women in cloches, when creating the accompanying skull cap-cum-cloches.
Peplums were aplenty and Galliano couldn't help himself, sneaking a little leopard print into the bunch. But the unifying thought with this collection seems to be: What will we see on newfound Dior client Carla Bruni-Sarkozy first?
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It's no secret this Spring is set to be saturated with color. Lanvin got the inspiration rolling by placing their deliciously bold party frocks in a painterly setting. Renaissance colors embolden the wildflower background and set off the vividly colored dresses and the model Olga Sherer's pale skin. Photographer Steven Meisel was an absolute visionary in his approach. These may be some of my favorite ads of the season — what about you?
