Olivier Theyskens

>> There's been speculation that Olivier Theyskens's upcoming capsule collection for Theory might be indicative of the label looking to move into more red carpet dressing, but the designer told Style Bubble today he had slightly different reasoning for hooking up with the brand:

"For a long time, I've been looking for a way of working with affordable fashion. I think Theory is the right brand to do this. It was a big intuition for me to do this Theyskens/Theory project — I'm super excited by it! I think today, you can find great things at a great price. As a designer, I'm not a guy that can be put in a niche. I'm a guy who can also put his mind to something more global and accessible. Also, I've always been hoping that my friends can buy what I design."

What about starting his own label? »

Olivier Theyskens, who has not produced a collection since his exit from the house of Nina Ricci during the fall 2009 season (although he did release a book), has landed himself a job—designing a capsule collection for Theory that will be released next spring according to WWD. We admit it might be nice to actually be able to afford something from one of the world's most adored fashion designers but would much prefer to watch Theyskens on a main stage, presenting mind-blowing fashions for a major house. Let's hope this partnership also means that Theory chief executive, Andrew Rosen, is planning to offer Theyskens financial backing to restart his own collection.

In other designer news, Brioni has tapped Alessandro Dell'Acqua to be the creative director for its women's collection. Dell'Acqua will continue to produce his own line, N. 21.

Source: Getty

>> Olivier Theyskens Finally Returning to Design —It's been over a year since Olivier Theyskens has had a design outlet — he left Nina Ricci in March 2009 — but he's finally back. Theyskens will design a capsule collection for contemporary brand Theory, to be shown during the upcoming Spring 2011 season. Further details are currently unavailable. [WWD]

>> Much speculation has identified Gareth Pugh and Olivier Theyskens as two possible frontrunners to take over creative direction of Alexander McQueen's label, and over the weekend, the Telegraph UK reported that Gucci Group owner PPR had indicated Pugh as the desired successor.

Last night, however, Pugh's PR company, Mandi Lennard Publicity, issued a statement in rebuttal: "To speculative reports earlier this week, Gareth Pugh is not in discussions with Gucci Group about a Creative Director role at Alexander McQueen."

Meanwhile, the last collection McQueen worked on — which is believed to have been mostly finished before his death — will be shown in "a series of low-key, private, salon presentations this week," the Telegraph UK notes.

>> Olivier Theyskens Is Not "Rushing to Go Back" to a Fashion House —Olivier Theyskens has his book launch for Olivier Theyskens: The Other Side of the Picture at Barneys in New York tonight, but otherwise, he seems to be enjoying his break from fashion. "I’m doing a lot of things. I’m not somebody who absolutely needs to draw and create . . . I would not say I am rushing to go back to working for a fashion house. Rushing is not very good. You have to temper yourself a little bit." He also says he's not bitter about breaking with Rochas and then Nina Ricci: "For me, Rochas, I thought maybe I could stay 20 years, it was possible. It was chemical with Rochas. But I have to say with Nina Ricci, I did not get that feeling that strong. I was very inspired so that’s why I did it. I thought that girl could be someone I would design for. But I don’t have any bitterness. That is probably not in my character because whatever happens in life, I am always open to new adventures. Even if I have a big separation with somebody I never feel bitterness." [Dazed Digital]

>> Olivier Theyskens No Longer In Talks with Christopher Burch, Exploring Other Options —There had been speculation that Olivier Theyskens was working with Tory Burch's ex-husband Christopher Burch on a new retail concept, but it sounds like the deal is no longer an option — the talks reportedly ended last month and Burch's company confirmed that they are no longer in discussion. In the meantime, Olivier will be making an appearance in New York next Thursday for the Barneys-hosted launch of his The Other Side of the Picture book with Assouline; he's also said to be in talks with several different unspecified groups about a hopefully impending comeback. [WWD]

Tommy Ton photographed Tavi Gevinson at her home in Chicago for Vogue Paris.

Vogue.com UK is the bearer of bad news. There will be no lower-priced Balmain in our futures.

Rodarte will be on view at the Smithsonian's Cooper-Hewitt National Design Museum in New York beginning February 11.

Now that couture has wrapped, resort 2011 planning begins. Christian Dior will show its cruise collection in Shanghai in April, while Chanel has set a May 11 date in Saint-Tropez.

Olivier Theyskens has sketched four complete collections while being unemployed for the past year.

Liberty of London helps decorate Nicholas Kirkwood's platform heels.

>> Olivier Theyskens has been unemployed for the past year, and aside from his book coming out Feb. 11, he told the Wall Street Journal he hasn't kept up with fashion magazines or parties. "Actually, I was thinking, oh, you should see on the Net what was going on. But I didn't. It makes me think that normal people — 99 percent of the people — don't run to the Net to see what's happening [on the runways]."

Theyskens, or "fashion's version of My So-Called Life — the TV show that was simultaneously applauded and canceled," as the Wall Street Journal put it, had critics enthralled when he was designing at both Rochas and then Nina Ricci, but retailers, not so much — they found it hard to stomach his $2,000 silk blouses.

Karen Daskas, owner of the Tender Birmingham boutique near Detroit, attests: "He cut for somebody that was tall and very thin. It didn't fit women who could afford clothes of that caliber." She now has Theyskens's final Nina Ricci collection marked down to 60 percent off. "I can't give it away. And we try it on everybody."

What does Theyskens say to that? »

>> Olivier Theyskens Now Modeling —First he worked on a book, and now he's working in front of a camera. Paris-based magazine Paris, LA invited Olivier Theyskens to pose for an editorial in their latest issue, and thus he appears in a spread by Michael Hemy, one shot, left, with another showing him in a sheer top and a third shirtless with a fur Rick Owens bandana around his neck. [WWD]

>> Preview Inside Olivier Theyskens's Upcoming Book —Olivier Theyskens: The Other Side of the Picture, the book the aforementioned designer has been working on in his designing downtime based on a collaboration with backstage photographer Julien Claessens, is out next month. Publisher Assouline has just published a preview of images from the book, which viewers can "leaf through" on their official website. [Assouline, @AssoulinePub]