Olivier Theyskens

>> Despite all the drama before and after, the Costume Institute Gala itself furnished plenty of notable and quotable moments; for those who were wondering, Carine Roitfeld did attend, even though it was reported that Julia Restoin-Roitfeld would not.

Gisele Bundchen pulled out of John Galliano's table at the last minute, choosing to ride in with the Versace camp instead; it sounds like she might be returning as the label's Fall 2009 face — the New York Times reports that her custom Versace dress "was conceived while she was modeling for [Donatella’s] next ad campaign." Helena Christensen, meanwhile, joked of her Zac Posen dress, which read "Vogue," the V formed by a plunging neckline: “It’s so I can remember whose party I’m at."

And while Kate Moss was on hostess duty (and presumably her best behavior) for Anna Wintour, she still managed to be herself, pulling a big wad of gum out of her mouth when asked about being a muse: “I’m amused.  I think it’s quite interesting for somebody to go outside of the box and think that a model actually has had some input into fashion. A lot of the time, the models don’t really get a say.”

But they do have a bathroom fascination »

>> INSIDER WIRE —Olivier Theyskens has been spotted around New York — earlier today he even went in for a manicure — but details are still swirling about where he'll land professionally. Will it be Schiaparelli?  Will it be Halston? Will he end up with his own line?  The latest is that Anna Wintour wants him in New York — to keep him close under her watchful eye, no doubt — and Halston seems to be her placement of choice.  The brand has also looked at Narciso Rodriguez and Marios Schwab for the creative director position. [WWD]
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>> INSIDER WIRE —The attention-grabbing platform shoes that were part of Olivier Theyskens's Fall 2009 Nina Ricci sendoff weren't put into production, but at the birthday party she threw for Steven Klein last night, Daphne Guinness showed up wearing a pair along with a gown from the same collection.  Before the party was supposed to start, she already admitted to falling once. [Style File]
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>> Not that it was expected any other way — Olivier is officially gone from the brand and sources have been pinpointing him as next in line for months — but now it's official: Peter Copping is the new artistic director at Nina Ricci.

He started at the brand on Monday and is already hard at work on a capsule resort collection, which is expected to be unveiled in late June.  It sounds like his first Nina Ricci runway show won't be in the Fall, but rather in March 2010 — the company wants to give him time to settle in (and hopefully get it right, considering that he's the third designer they've had within a span of three years — Theyskens started in 2006, and Lars Nilsson was in place before that).   

But he already has plenty of ideas »

>> INSIDER WIRE —Despite word last week that Halston is poised to poach Olivier Theyskens, those rumors that he might be taking the helm at Schiaparelli are still persisting.  We won't know anything until official word comes, but Diane Pernet cites "a very good source" saying that Olivier will be relaunching the house for owner Diego Della Valle; Theyskens's aesthetic certainly seemed more aligned with Schiaparelli than Halston. [A Shaded View on Fashion]
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>> Halston is still looking for a creative director — talks with Roland Mouret didn't pan out, and Marios Schwab was said to be under consideration early last month, but Halston CEO Bonnie Takhar wouldn't confirm anything.  Now, rumors from Paris thrust newly-orphaned Olivier Theyskens onto the forefront of the search, which seems an odd match to say the least — an American sportswear brand and a Belgian designer known for making costly, romantic gowns.

But Anna Wintour definitely has setting up Olivier's future on her to-do list, and what better way to keep tabs on his well-being than bringing him stateside for a post?  And if Harvey Weinstein still wants to make Halston "the first American global luxury brand, an American LVMH," like he did in 2007, bringing in a closely-watched designer with a French design pedigree could definitely be a good start.
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>> Nina Ricci is currently in a state of transition — Olivier Theyskens officially left the house earlier this month, and although Peter Copping's name has been thrown around as the replacement of choice, nothing has been made official.  Apparently several staffers, including PR director Kate Etter, also left the brand with Theyskens.

Today, Mario Grauso, president of Ricci owner Puig, verified that there are "no plans [for] a hiatus at Ricci," adding that the company "will announce a new designer within the next few weeks."  According to Fashion Week Daily, a well-placed industry insider is "99% sure" that Copping will be tapped, but Grauso would not confirm anything, and when prodded about a possible Copping appearance at the Costume Institute Gala, replied, "I have not yet invited people for the Met."

As for Oliver's legacy, those towering shoes he created for Fall 2009 will not be going into production — no surprise, but still, a comment on the ever-present misalignment between the brand and its former designer.
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>> IN PRODUCTION —Mark Walsh and Leslie Chin's fourth jewelry collaboration with Rodarte didn't make it onto the runway for Fall 2009, but it will be making it into stores — including Colette.  The 21 pieces of silvered bronze and rock crystal jewelry were inspired by medical experiments, and W's got a few pictures.  Speaking of Rodarte, they seem to have a new brand ambassador — Reese Witherspoon, who has changed her Nina Ricci brand alliance. [W Editors' Blog, Elle News Blog]