Well, that was fun: another Fashion Month has come and gone. Now that we've had time to regroup, it seems like this one was a lot more eventful than seasons past. Certainly a lot of the excitement had to do with the new arrivals at Dior and Saint Laurent, but those weren't the only happenings that caused a stir this month. From the critic who got into public spats with two high-profile designers to the most recognizable accessory of the season, we examine the reasons why the Spring 2013 collections will stick out in our minds for years to come.
At Carnegie Hall's 2012-2013 Season Opening Night Gala in NYC last night, Sarah Jessica Parker got an opportunity to show off her always fabulous style sense in a blue printed Oscar de la Renta maxi dress, Manolo Blahnik pumps, and Fallon jewels: this bib necklace ($265), this collar necklace ($375), and this crystal bracelet ($200). Her dress and baubles are not available to buy, but we can get our hands on SJP's Pierre Hardy mini snakeskin clutch ($990), which also comes with a detachable silver chain strap. Pair it with your fancy gowns like Sarah Jessica did or use it to amp up your t-shirt and jeans. It would also look amazing against an all-black look: turtleneck, pencil skirt, and pointy pumps.
Hedi Slimane has added his name to the short list of designers to respond publicly to Cathy Horyn's criticism of their work this season.
"Miss Horyn is a schoolyard bully and also a little bit of a stand-up comedian. Insiders argue she is an average writer, and a bit provincial, but I disagree, she did some great things. Her biggest achievement so far is a book about Bill Blass, that I haven't read. It might be terrific, and I'll be happy to recommend it, if it helps the sales. . . As far as I'm concerned, she will never get a seat at Saint Laurent, but might get two for one at Dior. She should rejoice. I don't mind critics, but they have to come from a fashion critic, not a publicist in disguise. I am quite mesmerized she did get away with it for so many years."
Horyn was not invited to the Saint Laurent show on Sunday and pointed that out in a post about the collection. She explained her exclusion thus:
"Despite positive reviews of his early YSL and Dior collections, as well as a profile, Mr. Slimane objected bitterly to a review I wrote in 2004 — not about him but Raf Simons. Essentially I wrote that without Mr. Simons's template of slim tailoring and street casting, there would not have been a Hedi Slimane — just as there would never have been a Raf Simons without Helmut Lang. Fashion develops a bit like a genetic line."
Oscar de la Renta took out a full-page ad in WWD to respond to Horyn calling him a "hot dog" in her critique of his Spring 2013 show. In it, the designer asked Horyn, "If you have the right to call me a hot dog why do I not have the right to call you a stale 3-day old hamburger?" Horyn later told us that she was trying to compliment de la Renta "as someone showing off his tricks, like a surfer."
A look at the full text of Slimane's tweet, below.
Fall is officially here! While we're looking forward to devouring pumpkin pies and getting cozy in cashmere, we're really all about the season's new beauty. We've found five new products to make this your most gorgeous Autumn ever. Glossy nail hues, hydrating hair care, does-it-all makeup, and more — it's all here. Watch to see why we love them (and why you will, too).
On Kirbie: Top by Greylin, necklace provided by Revolve Clothing (designed by Karla Deras Roman Luxe), scarf by Zara, hat by American Apparel.
Those stories and more in our daily news roundup.
- "You may think I am high maintenance, but I assure you, the attention is worth it," Choupette Lagerfeld writes in the infamous diary her two maids keep detailing her every move. "Even my fur balls are glossy." [Grazia]
- Lady Gaga has sided with Oscar de la Renta in his tiff with fashion critic Cathy Horyn. "Bravo Oscar," the singer tweeted. "Only you would be so chic as to purchase an entire page in WWD, making statements like a good fashion citizen." [Styleite]
- Mugler creative director Christophe de Lataillade has revealed the secrets behind campaigns for the house's iconic fragrance Angel — including the set that nearly burned a model's flesh. [The Cut]
- Calvin Klein's ex-boyfriend Nick Gruber has accused the fashion icon of paying private eyes to "stalk" him and his new boyfriend, animator John Luciano. "Calvin can hire goons to follow John and me all he wants — we have nothing to hide. I've moved on. I've never been happier." [Page Six]
- Hedi Slimane will unveil his new Saint Laurent Paris store concept when he opens a store in Shanghai next week. The design, involving a lot of dark stone and mirrored surfaces, references the French art deco and Union des Artistes Modernes movements. [WWD]
- Versace has opened another store, too — online. Customers in Italy, the United Kingdom, Germany, and France can now buy the house's wares through a new ecommerce site. [Versace]
- Net-a-Porter founder Natalie Massenet has been appointed chairwoman of the British Fashion Council, succeeding its leader of five years, Harold Tillman. [The Independent]
Photo via Grazia
Cathy Horyn told us the full-page ad Oscar de la Renta placed in WWD responding to her critique of his Spring 2013 collection — in which she refers to him as a "hot dog" — was the result of one big misunderstanding.
"I used the term in a professional context, as someone showing off his tricks, like a surfer," Horyn said in an email. "I thought an ad was a little over-the-top."
Hotdogging was coined as a surfing term in the '50s and generally described surfing "for flash rather than function." De la Renta's collection had plenty of flash: graffiti embroidery snaked over a lace suit jacket and dress, little cloth-covered beads hung from strings on a cardigan and a full ball gown, and the fluttery effect of one cocktail frock was created by sewing individually cut white flowers with red piping all over a strapless white A-line dress.
The designer's response to Horyn's critique was a little less flowery. The open letter reads in part, "I respect and accept criticism because in many ways it does help us develop; I try to make my work better each time. What I do not accept is when criticism is personal. If you have the right to call me a hot dog why do I not have the right to call you a stale 3-day old hamburger? My advice to you is to abstain from personal criticism. Professionals criticize the clothes, not the people."
Horyn's original critique said, "Mr. de la Renta is far more a hot dog than an éminence grise of American fashion. He opened his lively show on Tuesday with a red latex pencil skirt, a sleek ivory wool pantsuit and dairymaid lace. . . . It was wonderfully cantankerous, a good bit of window-dressing for the gooey stuff that followed."
She may have intended to be positive, but this isn't the first time that Horyn's criticism has gotten her in hot water with designers. Giorgio Armani banned Horyn from his shows in 2008, complaining in a letter to her editor about the "unnecessarily sarcastic comments" on his friends and family at his Spring 2008 couture show and saying that he "rarely found positive remarks" in Horyn's reviews. She's also been banned from shows by Dolce & Gabbana, Helmut Lang, and Carolina Herrera.
We've reached out to representatives for Oscar de la Renta for a comment on Horyn's clarification and will update this post when we hear from them. For now, the original full-page ad below.
Floral and eyelet dresses shared the runway with stripes and plaids at Oscar de la Renta's Spring 2013 runway show yesterday. And while that might sound like the usual fare for the legendary designer, the models were anything but typical — they were about two feet shorter than those who walked the New York Fashion Week runway the day prior, and several made their way across the runway pulled in wagons, riding on scooters, and holding skateboards.
For his first full childrenswear collection (the pint-size label launched this past Spring with a stunning flower girl collection), de la Renta created a springtime garden party filled with traditional sundresses, hand-crocheted jackets, and appliquéd flowers for lil girls, and colorful layered looks of button-down shirts, striped sweaters, and cotton shorts for boys. Designed by Catherine Monteiro de Barros, who previously founded and ran the popular high-end Portuguese children's brand Papo d'Anjo, the collection was packed with classic styles reminiscent of the label's adult pieces — a point that was certainly noticed by de la Renta himself, who stood to the side of the runway nodding his approval as each tot took a turn on the catwalk. Keep reading to see the Spring collection for yourself.
This season, Oscar's ladies aren't afraid of bold color — or a little latex. The show opened with Karlie Kloss in a red latex tank and slit pencil skirt, setting the tone for a show that gave Oscar's brand of ladylike a decidedly younger voice and a playfulness (most obviously via the models' color-streaked bouffants) throughout. Between the opener and a lovely, embellished strapless gown (which Karlie Kloss also wore) to close out the show, we were treated to a menagerie of candy-colored day dressing, finished with girlie takes on texture — think lace, ruffles, and scalloped edges, before the collection gave way to a few show-stoppers and shockers (like Cara Delevingne in a hot-pink, ostrich-feather-trimmed peplum bustier-and-short set) and culminated in Oscar's parade of evening dresses. While '60s silhouettes were present throughout — skirt suiting, fit-and-flare silhouettes, floral applique crop-tops, and high-waist shorts — it was expressed most clearly in this lineup of pretty party dresses: floaty, feminine confections finished in tulle and organza that have since inspired our dreams of the most glamorous, retro-feeling prom dresses.
- Trends: Leather, metallics, lace, fit-and-flare dresses, slits, stripes, brights, and peplum.
- Colors: A crop of brights — hot pink, yellow, baby blue, ivory, black, and red.
- Key Piece: From this all-star lineup? It's nearly impossible to pick just one.
- Accessories: Chunky jeweled necklaces, jewel-drop earrings, brooches, ladylike pumps, candy-colored ankle-strap heels, and laser-cut booties.
- Who Should Wear It: Here's hoping Diane Kruger opts for the striped, strapless ball gown on the red carpet; we could see Emma Stone in the black tiered and textured mini.
Latex, leather, and lace — three materials that can easily conjure tawdry images when left to their own devices — were made impressively pretty in Oscar de la Renta's Spring 2013 collection.
There was a definite '60s feel to this offering, created by nipped-in waists, full skirts, bateau necklines, and three-quarter-length sleeves on jackets, sweaters, and cardigans. (Erika Bearman, de la Renta's public relations chief, tweeted that the models' neon-streaked beehive hairdos were very "breakfast @ tiffanys meets daphne guinness.") A mustard-colored macramé cardigan was paired with a sleeveless ruffled top in a brighter yellow that got tucked into a high-waisted pencil skirt made from tiers of plaid. Later on, a sweet pink tweed skirt was paired with a lacy top belted at the waist. Betty Draper — or any real or fictional Junior Leaguer of her era — wouldn't have felt out of place in the blue tweed cardigan trimmed in white leather.
A blue-green latex skirt and tank top, on the other hand, were a different story. Those edgier garments were tied to the show's overall feeling by being stowed underneath a cardigan covered with little green beads. An otherwise demure white suit jacket and shift dress were decorated with unexpected black graffiti squiggles.
De la Renta merged that youthful attitude with his established elegance through his eveningwear section. A sparkly strapless number in dove gray and a navy-and-white-striped gown with a full skirt will undoubtedly speak to women of all ages.
As Summer winds down, warm-weather looks are limited, so this week's celebrity style standouts embraced the last of their minidresses and transitioned to Fall-friendly textures and darker hues. Our trendsetters this week were Kate Bosworth in a green Proenza Schouler tweed skirt, Olivia Palermo in an animal-print blouse and pleated Stylestalker shorts, Sarah Jessica Parker in a red printed Oscar de la Renta dress and polka-dot Manolo Blahnik pumps, and a few more including Miranda Kerr, Rachel Zoe, Emma Watson, and Kim Kardashian. Take a closer look at our fashionable picks, get inspiration for your weekend wardrobe, then shop their looks for yourself.