Paris Fashion Week Spring 2013

As one of the most anticipated shows of the season — with a modified name, restructured logo, and, oh yeah, designer Hedi Slimane at the helm — it would be fair to say that Saint Laurent Spring '13 had some high expectations to live up to. Of course, it took all of half a second for us to remember why we've held Slimane in such high esteem since his days at Dior Homme. The proof was in his careful crafting and reverence to the label's legendary silhouettes, as much as it could be seen in his interpretation of Parisian-chic through an LA rock 'n' roll lens. The colorful evening caftan gowns were accented with long tassled necklaces and flowy capes, ultratailored silhouettes (we're taking superslim-cut trousers paired with and blazers) took on a more bohemian vibe via wide-brimmed floppy fedoras and loosely adorned bows, and the recognizable safari-chic dresses from seasons past came complete with sexy lace-up fronts and were finished with touches of Western-inspired fringe. From start to finish, there was an overwhelming sense of "cool" that couldn't be shaken — nor would you want to shake it — and while this debut collection from Slimane didn't override older notions of the iconic brand entirely, it certainly took aspects of Saint Laurent's past in a new, youthful direction.

• Trends: Slimmer-than-slim silhouettes, dramatic large floppy hats, embellishments of every kind (fringe, studs, sheer panels, tassels, bows, etc.), the caftan, and tailored blazers.
• Colors: Black, white, tan, brown, taupe, merlot red, and metallic gold — with a parade of red, blue, and purple at the show's end.
• Key Piece: The caftan-meets-ruffled color evening gowns — especially in that deep burgundy hue.
• Accessories: The essential platform pump, wide-brimmed hats, long tasseled necklaces, and floor-skimming capes.
• Who Should Wear It: Front-row attendees Kate Moss and Jessica Chastain will definitely do the collection justice. Moreover, we think Slimane's newly installed brand of bohemian cool has Nicole Richie and Rachel Zoe written all over it.

This year marks 60 years for Chloé, but the French house is still as flirty and free-spirited as it was when Gaby Aghion founded it. The collection was shown under a big, airy white tent with an open roof so we could see the sunshine through the trees of the Tuileries above. It was the perfect setting for a collection that was all about volume, not the heavy, structured kind that weighs you down (or makes your hair stand up) but the kind of volume that makes clothes float and swish. Designer Clare Waight-Keller employed sheer fabrics, mesh, tulle, and big ruffles to make that point and cut slouchy, oversize shorts and pants that won't look great on anyone but will look fantastic on the right person. The ruffles — oversize ones adorning sleeves and hems — didn't feel too girlie because the silhouettes were kept minimal and clean. The color palette helped too — the show opened with all white before introducing ochre, peach, navy, and earthy neutrals. Even the girliest indulgence — floral appliqué on a short swingy skirt and down one leg of a pair of oversize pants — felt cool rather than overwrought. Those who love accessories will adore the metallic ankle-strap heels, which are a sure must have for next Spring, and the newest Amelia bag with beautiful contrasting trim and deco-inspired resin detailing.

For Giambattista Valli's Spring '13 collection, the designer showed off his impeccable tailoring skills through a mix of gorgeous embellished dresses and more modern separates, ultimately providing options for the woman who takes her day from the office to cocktail parties. For daywear, Valli highlighted clean cut separates - ankle crop trousers paired with chic vests, tailored jumpsuits, wrap skirts, and peplum blazers - emoting a minimal, yet elegant effect. Meanwhile, the designer showed a more risqué approach with his array of sheer dresses leaving quite little to the imagination. Some of them featured a thick hemline while others showed gorgeous floral appliqué embroidery. We especially loved the sheer white sheath dresses cinched in with a matching slim leather belt. More details from the collection below.

• Trends: Sheer layers, crop tops, peplum.
• Colors: White. red, gray, black, pale yellow, gold.
• Key Piece: The sheer floral embellished dresses were gorgeous.
• Accessories: Metallic point-toe pumps, leather clutches, modern metallic cuffs and necklaces.
• Who Should Wear It: Who's looking for ladylike looks with a twist? Jessica Biel, Zoe Saldana, and Emma Stone come to mind.

Bill Gaytten did not hold back on the drama factor for John Galliano's Spring '13 collection. Gone were the overembellishments we're used to seeing from Gaytten’s predecessor, and instead, the designer gave the collection a different kind of theatricality. It was all about structure and volume as the models marched down the runway decked in huge tulle Stephen Jones hats and equally oversize trousers, printed gowns, and billowy tops. Most looks were dipped in hues of salmon pink, lilac, black, and white, but there was also the occasional pop of prints — highlighting an image of a man soaring across the sky — splashed on voluminous skirts and gowns. Details showed a Japanese influence via intricate pleating and folding technique. While it's hard to picture most of this collection worn on the street, we can easily imagine Hollywood stunners like Cate Blanchett and Julianne Moore working these dramatic silhouettes on the red carpet.

• Trends: Japanese influence, volume, long, oversize shorts.
• Colors: Black, blue, lilac, salmon pink, white, citron, navy.
• Key Piece: The lilac draped dress showed perfect restraint and drama.
• Accessories: Statement hats by Stephen Jones, leather ankle boots, patent pumps, ankle-strap pumps
• Who Should Wear It: We can see Gaytten's artistic creations on the more daring type like Rihanna and Lady Gaga and classic red carpet types like Blanchett and Moore.

Whether you're a modern girl or effortless bohemian, Christophe Lemaire has you covered for Hermès's Spring '13. His latest collection for the brand showed a mix of sharp leather separates cut on colorful leather and, for the more spirited at heart, a beautiful array of draped printed silks. Lemaire melded the season's prevalent leather and sportif theme into tailored mustard yellow leather dresses, colorblocked pencil skirts, and a gorgeous array of tailored croc leather shorts. Meanwhile, the brand's iconic scarf prints were turned into baggy silk shorts paired with tailored blazers, billowy trousers, and tunic dresses adding an exotic touch to the overall feel of the collection. For its iconic accessories, the brand highlighted a chic weekender version of the Birkin, folded leather clutches, and even backpacks for the well-traveled nomad. With Hermès's a-little-bit-of-everything approach for Spring, we're sure there's something to please every sartorial eye.

• Trends: Leather, bold prints, long shorts, colorblocking.
• Colors: Red, cobalt, camel, white, seafoam, ecru, teal, mustard, camel.
• Key Piece: The scarf-print shorts paired with the tailored floral-printed blazer and tie was the perfect mixed-print mashup.
• Accessories: Point-toe pumps, mini leather gloves, disc bracelets, folded clutches, backpacks, weekender bags.
• Who Should Wear It: The tailored separates on Tilda Swinton and the printed pieces on Solange.

If you can tear your eyes away from the parade of fuzzy slippers coming down the runway, then you can refocus your attention to the Spring lineup offered up by minimalist maestro Phoebe Philo. Above the ankles, Philo's collection delves into new territory, most notably with her accessories, but also with other twists — quite literally: the twisted fabric looped over a shoulder and fastened across the chests and waists of her tops, creating a new architectural storyline in the midst of her simplified, more menswear-informed silhouettes. To that end, we also get get unfinished, raw hemlines that felt a little disheveled, a little sexy maybe. Speaking of sexy, there was that, too — a pretty obvious nod to more sensuous Spring dressing with curve-conscious v-neck dresses, inset with eye-catching netting. As far as wearability, Philo's slouchy separates and clean-cropped leather may rank highest on that list, but it's the shoes and accessories that fascinate — and if the success of Céline's other handbags are any indication, then it's the fresh riffs on the clutch (resembling a kind of luxe paper-bag lunch) that will likely be the biggest draw come Spring.

• Trends: Netting, leather, and crop tops.
• Colors: White, black, navy, and a pop of pastel.
• Key Piece: The sexy dresses with deep necklines inset with netting.
• Accessories: Fuzzy, slipper-style flats and pumps, and roll-top clutches.
• Who Should Wear It: Chloë Sevigny and Anna Dello Russo in the shoes, while we're sure the rest of the fashion elite will be toting the new clutches next season.

Humberto Leon and Carol Lim looked to the Southeast Asian jungles for inspiration, but the fully realized Spring '13 lineup was the kind of safari-inspired style that's more suited to the city. A punchy palette of orange and green was made all the more playful with oversize leopard spots (that start to look more like flowers than animal prints) and all-over abstract jungle prints. Of course, even if print isn't your thing, hear us out: they feel infinitely more contemporary worn with the line's cropped, safari-style jackets or tempered with buttery leather sleeves. And, if you're seeking something sexier, Kenzo answers with its off-the-shoulder dresses, bustier-style tops, and cinched waists.

• Trends: Animal-inspired prints and colorful jungle prints, jumpsuits, cutouts, vests, and safari-inspired silhouettes.
• Colors: White, yellow, orange, purple, blue, emerald and olive greens, and khaki.
• Key Piece: The orange printed pants and blouse topped with cropped olive jacket.
• Accessories: Oversize jewels, slouchy knee-high boots, structured satchels, strappy heels, and colored shades.
• Who Should Wear It: Gwen Stefani could pull off even the cutout look.

An organic color palette of black, sand, and rust set the stage for Loewe's Parisian-chic Spring 2013 collection. Designer Stuart Vevers brought a crisp minimalism to the runway, offering up chic bra tops, formfitting pencil skirts, hooded leather jackets, and sleek laser-cut suede lace pieces like trench coats and shift dresses. Vevers found inspiration for his collection in Gala Dalí, the wife and muse of Surrealist painter Salvador Dalí — a woman whose mystery and sex appeal was trumped only by her sense of adventure. The designer captured that fearless spirit in travel-worn utilitarian pieces like a low-cut suede safari dress and artfully draped hooded coats and introduced a new spin on ladylike dressing. It also makes perfect sense that the Loewe Spring '13 collection was styled by another strong, daring woman with a glamorous edge — Carine Roitfeld.

If you were expecting Vivienne Westwood to deliver a Spring '13 collection built upon her iconic corseted silhouettes, fearless patterns, and downright zany embellishments, then you have come to the right place. While the hair-raising updos and heart-shaped face makeup could have been indicative of the clothing's equally fantastical appeal, it was far from an abstract lineup. In fact, it felt like one of Westwood's more wearable collections in recent seasons. The gowns — injected with dramatic trains, corseted bustiers, and even a hint of an accentuated hip shape — were doubly glamorous, thanks to the designer's affinity for costume-jewelry add-ons. But the gowns weren't the only pieces adorned with beautiful brooches and gem-encrusted pins. Tapestry-printed pantsuits and mini-jumpsuits also topped the list of looks that got the jazzed-up treatment. We spotted a jaw-dropping metallic column dress worthy of Diane Kruger's next red-carpet appearance mixed in with artfully draped sheaths detailed with pockets and oversize blazers presented with a strong shoulder statement. According to Westwood's Spring, you can have your eclectic costume style — all with a very wearable twist.

• Trends: Tapestry prints, costume-jewelry embellishments, corseted silhouettes, and bold shoulders.
• Colors: Metallic hues mixed in with navy, citron, pale blue, pink, black, nude, and lavender.
• Key Piece: The gold textured column dress, finished off with a large bejeweled crab brooch on the bustier.
• Accessories: Croc-skin clutches, printed platform sandals, knee-high gladiator sandals, every kind of costume-jewelry accent you could dream of, and patterned totes.
• Who Should Wear It: Diane Kruger, Anne Hathaway, and Sarah Jessica Parker.