>> Who scored a coveted spot on Givenchy's always well-curated roster this season? Big names like Karolina Kurkova, Erin Wasson (in her first appearance since New York this season); plus Frankie Rayder, Mariacarla Boscono, and Natalia Vodianova — the show's opener — all popped up on the runway for the first time this season. Heather Marks made a return as exclusive, and there were also a number of newcomer exclusives like Henrietta Hellberg and Anna-Maria Nemetz. But perhaps creating the most buzz? The show's closer, Gisele Bundchen, who is already assumed to be a shoe-in for next season's campaign. See them all in the slideshow.
We always count on Stella McCartney to give us something new and refreshing and her latest Spring '12 collection did just that. With a star-studded front row attendance — including her father Paul McCartney, Twiggy, Salma Hayek, and Rachel Zoe to name a few – Stella showed a sporty collection highlighting chic mesh-detailed dresses, louche suiting, and strong prints. However, it was far from busy thanks to minimal silhouettes via easy slip dresses, structured oversized jackets, and louche trousers and shorts. In place of last season's highly covetable dot prints, McCartney created swirl, paisley, and vintage graphic patterns splashed across pajama-inspired pant suits and red-carpet worthy bodycon printed frocks. We especially loved the ones featuring the cool swirl-embellished hemlines. Another hit for Stella? We think so. Check out more details from the amazing collection below.
- Trends: Mesh details, pajama-inspired pieces, wrap dresses, louche suiting.
- Colors: Blue, white, red, green, gray.
- Key Look: The printed and mesh minidresses.
- Accessories: Strappy nude sandals and chunky red slip-on sandals.
- Who Would Wear It: Girls who crave fresh cuts and silhouettes like Sarah Jessica Parker, Alexa Chung, and Liv Tyler.
Gisele Bundchen hit the runway yesterday during Paris Fashion Week, modeling a look from the Givenchy Spring 2012 show. She tweeted before hitting the catwalk that her stay in France was brief at just 24 hours! Gisele had the help of her longtime friend, makeup artist Pat McGrath, before she stepped out in front of the cameras. The supermodel tweeted afterward, "Thank you Pat McGrath for making me look beautiful as you always do!" While Gisele was tending to her work, her husband Tom Brady helped lead the Patriots to a win over the Raiders. Tom and his team played an away match in Oakland, and he was commended especially for playing a mistake-free game.
>> Kanye West debuted his womenswear collection in Paris Saturday, in front of an audience that included the designers Azzedine Alaia, Joseph Altuzarra, Alexander Wang, Dean and Dan Caten, Olivier Theyskens, Jeremy Scott, and Mary-Kate and Ashley Olsen, plus Anna Wintour.
During his after-party that evening at Club Silencio, West grabbed the microphone to make the following speech: “Thank you for anybody that didn’t believe, because they motivated us to break our boundaries. We don’t know what the reviews will be, we don’t know what they will say, but I got a chance to go to Italy and feel those fabrics. I begged Louis Vuitton to let me do more shoes after my shoes sold out in two weeks, and they did not. I begged Nike, I begged this company to let me do it. And I took out motherf*cking loans to get the best models, to get the best designers, to get the best venue. I gave you everything that I had."
He continued: "This is my first collection. Please be easy. Please give me a chance to grow. This is not some celebrity sh*t. I don’t f*ck with celebrities. I f*ck with the creatives in this room, the amazing people who spend every day of their life trying to make the world a more beautiful place. The amount of people that tried to get me a celebrity f*cking deal. They said, ‘You need to do boot-cut jeans, or you won’t sell.’ Shut the f*ck up ! Or Hedi Slimane in the motherf*cking Mercer, sitting with me, saying, ‘Stop giving them your ideas, Kanye. Do your own thing.’ Hedi Slimane! To feel so frustrated. And I thank anybody who came to this party, everybody who supported, everybody who believed, because people thought it was a joke, and maybe people still do, but I can only grow from this point.”
The reviews came in later, and there were some criticisms. Suzy Menkes noted: "Mr. West followed the sexual energy of the Balmain style, with well-made clothes in fine fabrics. But a celebrity tag and a lively audience filled with music-business friends, does not cut it in Paris." WWD wrote: "A white dress with a strip of a racer back and a pair of colorful leather pants were nice. But in general the leathers and cuts were too clunky. The rest of the collection cribbed from the work of the designers he admires, many of whom were sitting in the audience, and whose ranks he intends to join." The New York Times's Eric Wilson blogged: "There was one good-looking pair of color-blocked pants in blue and coral, but it was obvious that most of the clothes suffered from a poor fit." And from The Wall Street Journal: "A vast quantity of luxury materials can’t blind people to a lack of creative marksmanship."
Cathy Horyn writes that the day after the show, West acknowledged criticism like the poor fit and the casting, and: "He was completely open about the learning-curve problems and indicated that he planned to deal with them."
Bill Gaytten, charged with the task of delivering a line for John Galliano's namesake label, honed in on the designer's signature aesthetic, save for Galliano's flair for theatrics. Styling was more tempered than Galliano's — soft makeup palettes and simple braids and buns. It made it easier to take in the collection, which was marked by sheer, soft, femininity — in fact, there was hardly a look on the runway that didn't offer a sheer piece. Gowns that beg for the red carpet — preferably with the right slip layered underneath — payed tribute to the feminine, highlighting curves with perfect accuracy. Then there's the ladylike daywear: skirt suits, tailored shorts, and blouses in more playful prints, adorned with flowers and topped with hats, that speak emphatically to Galliano's Parisian sensibility.
- Trends: feminine, ladylike, sheer, ruffles.
- Colors: black, white, soft florals, blue, and green.
- Key Piece: the soft, knife-pleat floral strapless.
- Accessories: socks, cutout and ankle-strap heels, flat-topped hats.
- Who Would Wear It: soft, feminine types; Charlize Theron was made to wear one of the sheer, ruffled gowns.
Spring 2012 signaled a return to pretty at Christian Dior. Models sashayed down the runway in chiffon and organza gowns and belted ladylike coats. The palette was classic Dior as well, running the gamut from lipstick red to one of our favorite shades this season: seafoam green. To see all the gorgeous gowns (we know we'll be spotting on the red carpet!) watch our coverage now!
Phoebe Philo played with proportions, and little else, for her Spring 2012 collection. There were cocoon sleeve jackets, cinched with extra-wide belts, trousers dressed up with sculpted peplum details that looked like they had been influenced by a Frank Gehry building, and peplum. The minimalist mood remained strong, and while some of the oversized proportions seem hard to wear in real life, there were slimmer silhouettes that would work for every day: slim blouses tucked into low-waisted pleated skirts, crisp shirtdresses, and a definite must-have, ankle-strap platform heel. We'll have the full collection — and review — to present soon, but for now, check out some highlights.
For Spring 2012, Riccardo Tisci focused on tailoring, turning out models in exquisite pantsuits and peplum cocktail frocks all in a lovely neutral palette of blush, white, black, and army green. The usual Givenchy edge surfaced in exotic details like eel skin, laser-cut leather, and chiffon sequins. To see the entire collection, watch the runway now!
>> Saturday's Paris shows brought out two sets of stylish twins — Mary-Kate and Ashley Olsen, and Haya and Sama Abu Khadra — and Rachel Zoe traded in her usual black and white for a bright blue jumpsuit. See those looks — plus 23 more creative takes on weekend dressing — in the slideshow.