Paris Fashion Week

Roland Mouret knows what women want: to appear incredibly sexy, without ever feeling like you've gone too far or tried too hard. For Spring 2012, he exercised that same restraint via cutouts and form-fitting shapes — but only to a certain extent. While his Fall '11 looks veered into softer femininity, there is a mix both of retro-inspired silhouettes giving way to more modern details. Dresses are, at first, printed and ladylike, then sharper and tailored, some with curve-hugging fits and flashes of skin via unexpected eye-shaped cutouts. Then, he counters with suiting; bright, slim trousers and button-downs, and midi skirts, all embellished with black ribbon bow-ties to temper the cutouts and sexier fare. You could just as easily find your standout cocktail dress as you could your workday office wear, and it would all be the perfect kind of sexy for whatever the occasion.

• Trends: Brights, cutouts, ladylike dressing.
• Colors: Black, white, blues, red, mustard yellow.
• Key Look: The navy shirtdress and sheaths with surprising, sexy cutouts.
• Accessories: White and black platform sandals.
• Who Would Wear It: Girls who crave polish, but not without a little sex appeal.

>> "Love is in the Hair" is the name of Delfina Delettrez's new tress-inspired jewelry collection. Whimsical, yes, but that should be no surprise from a designer known for her witty, surrealistic approach. "Love is in the Hair" has Delettrez revisiting some of her favorite themes — anatomy, memory, nature —  resulting in a collection of keepsakes which are both amusing and appealing. Fashioned from unusual materials, the collection is filled with what read like tiny works of art; there are hairpins decorated with lips, heart-shaped resin pendants hanging from studded-leather collars, precious metal and stone "DNA" necklaces, and a miniature metallic purse that dangles from a rose gold ring. Click through to see a selection of pieces from the collection, plus the fantastical hair sculptures — inspired by historic women — Delettrez created to present the collection. Available March 2012 at Opening Ceremony.

>> Unseasonably warm weather in Paris means those Summer pieces get a little extra wear during Fashion Week. Sheath dresses for Shala Monroque, Taylor Tomasi Hill and Anna Dello Russo; a sleeveless jumpsuit for Anja Rubik; and more than a few white pieces were pulled out on the day two — see all in the slideshow.

“I always resented the idea of radical silhouettes or exaggeration being confined to the runway,” said Owens, when describing his Spring collection. “That kind of extremity should be accessible all day long.” That said, wearability was key for Owens, as seen through the simple cotton and leather fabrics he juxtaposed into a '60s couture-inspired line. Long, lean pillar skirts were the focal point, paired with a range of structured and voluminous tops. Most notably were the array of modern patchwork jackets and exaggerated bell-sleeved renditions. Meanwhile, flowy draped skirts and intricately ruched gowns provided a softer touch to the collection. The color palette stayed true to his aesthetic, featuring predominately black, white, and gray hues, but there was also experimentation with a warm clay hue. “There’s no irony," said Owens. "It’s not particularly witty. There’s no menace. This time, it’s really pure, simple grace.” More details from the collection below.

• Trends: Minimalism, pillar skirts, draped skirts, patchwork jackets, volume.
• Colors: Black, white, gray, clay.
• Key Look: The patchwork jackets with bell sleeves and pillar skirts.
• Accessories: Minimal platform sandals.
• Who Would Wear It: Girls who crave strong, yet minimal looks.

All the romance and delicacy of Nina Ricci was present for Spring 2012, with a healthy dose of overt flirtation added in. Slim dresses were dolled up with soft ruffles, drape, and pretty florals; floaty peplum tops, peeking from tailored cropped jackets, danced above miniskirts; and then there was lingerie. Designer Peter Copping had played with lingerie themes in his Resort collection; here it was taken a new level: models walked the runway in pretty bras, some underneath jackets, others simply with a swingy skirt. Slipdresses of silk and lace seemed cut apart and stitched back together. It was playful and seductive, but most importantly it was pretty.

• Trends: ladylike, boudoir, lingerie, florals.
• Colors: pink, white, black, lavender, blue.
• Key Look: the lace and silk slipdresses, the floral prints that came from the Nina Ricci archive.
• Accessories: minimal platform sandals, stilettos.
• Who Would Wear It: feminine, polished girls — Cameron Diaz, Nicole Kidman, Jen Aniston.

>> The first full day of Paris Fashion Week shows got off to a lighthearted note backstage — Saskia de Brauw was caught playing air guitar just after walking Rue du Mail, Bette Franke was snapped sniffing Suvi Koponen's necklace pre-Dries van Noten, and a smiling Liu Wen rested herself at the bottom of a spiral staircase behind-the-scenes at Rochas. Those pictures, and more from all three shows, in the gallery.

Photos: Greg Kessler

There's a reason we all love Guillaume Henry's designs for Carven: they're wearable, chic, and have that perfect twist of whimsy we all crave. The designer delivered just that, plus a mix of colorful Alpines-inspired silhouettes and ikat patterns, for Spring in the way of Lederhosen-like leather shorts, cutout dresses, prim collars, and circle skirts. Leather was utilized to the fullest via swingy skirts, high-waist shorts, and buckle-embellished shift dresses while collar tops were revamped with cropped cuts and cutout details. Meanwhile, vibrant ikat patterned dresses and colorful lace-inset frocks provided perfect partywear options. Needless to say, we want everything from the collection. Read our breakdown below for more details.

• Trends: Crop tops, cutouts, collar details, ethnic prints.
• Colors: Red, blue, marigold, black, off-white.
• Key Look: The cutout leather dresses and prim collar tops.
• Accessories: Flatform loafers, ankle-wrap sandals, printed clutches.
• Who Would Wear It: Girls who love wearable, whimsical chic pieces.