Peter Som

If last season was an exploration of the stricter side of things, then Spring 2013 may just mark a return to playfulness for Peter Som. Sure, there was a certain sense of underlying danger in some of those angularly cut floral-print dresses (the best of which were rimmed in dark lace), but right out the gate, these looks were softer, sweeter, and prettier than nearly anything the designer sent down the runway the season before. What really made these looks shine, though, was Som's killer sense for color, pattern, and detail. A pencil skirt in airy pastel tweed, for example, was given a tactile boost with the addition of a sexy little hip panel in lace, while a series of vivid chevron-patterned looks were actually made from panels of patchworked snakeskin.

Earlier in the week, the designer told us that the song that most defines Spring 2013 for him is "There Is a Light That Never Goes Out" by The Smiths. Thanks to these brightly clever looks, it's easy to see what he means.

Take extreme girliness, toss it with some rebellious elements, and what you get is Peter Som Spring 2013. Think feminine dressing with a playful wink — skirts had big asymmetric ruffles, delicate orchid-print shorts (note: these were part of a collaboration done with Earnest Sewn) were made oversized and slouchy, lace was turned into t-shirts, and a pretty pink dress had multiple straps that crisscrossed each other in an act of controlled chaos. The models sported colorful streaks of pink, blue, and green in their hair, giving more juice to the rebellious theme. Lingerie, a big trend emerging at New York Fashion Week, continued here in the form of '50s bustier tops. It was a vibrant show that started heavy on the floral prints, but halfway through the show leopard, graphic '60s prints, and lace bombed in, making for carefully mismatched outfits street stylers will love. It was a playful show that seemed perfectly attuned to young style setters like Hailee Steinfeld, who watched raptly from the front row.

• Trends: Bustiers, florals, jacquard, metallic, leopard, mixed prints.
• Colors: Avocado, orange, chartreuse, gold, pink, mint, bold blue.
• Key Piece: The corded lace tees, oversized floral shorts, and fabulous leopard metallic pants.
• Accessories: Tabitha Simmons created the pretty metallic ankle-strap heels.
• Who Should Wear It: Hailee Steinfeld and Girls star Allison Williams sat front row, and both would look amazing in the pretty tees and shorts.

"At the time, I thought I was in the chicest place in the universe," said Peter Som of his first time at New York Fashion Week as a Parsons student. In honor of that impending chicness, we spoke with him and others — veterans and newcomers alike — to hear the experiences of their first shows, their most memorable moments, and how they plan to recover after the madness of the week is over.

Pamela Love remembers being nervous the first time Anna Wintour attended one of her shows (who wouldn't be?), and Chris Benz told us about his very own House of Style moment at Marc Jacobs's Spring 2002 show. We also heard tales from Rebecca Minkoff, Rachel Comey, Yigal Azrouel, Jenni Kayne, and many others. Read on for a look at their most memorable Fashion Week moments — and find out who was so starstruck by Chloe Sevigny that they offered to let her skip the bathroom line — here, in the gallery.

— Reporting by Christina Pérez

In honor of the US Open Tennis Championships, which started in New York on Monday, Vogue asked designers including Pamela Love, Peter Som, and Eddie Borgo to design tennis balls with elements of their signature motifs. The one-of-a-kind balls are decorated with everything from cloth flowers to rhinestones, lace, leather, and aggressive metal studs. Love shot an arrow through her design ("I have four arrow tattoos, so I thought, why not?" she says), while Som's sparkly entry takes inspiration from a diamond tennis bracelet. Dana Lorenz's Fenton ball, with brass chains and pearls, takes inspiration from Christian Lacroix and the glamorous supermodels of the '90s. A selection of our favorites from the project here in the gallery.

Photo via Vogue.

Peter Som looked to Marrakesh — and specifically, the actress Talitha Getty's adventures there in the late '60s — for Resort 2013. The result? A collection filled with enough lace, jacquard, and winding prints to make even the most hardened minimalist think twice. Sounds wild, yes (Getty was, after all, legendary for her bohemian style), but Som is nothing if not a classicist, and so these romantic textures and patterns are tempered by Som's even, linear way with a silhouette — and made all the more appealing for it. "A sense of wanderlust and nomad chic pervades this Resort collection," Som explained. "Mosaic and textile inspired prints mingle with signature tweed and lace to create a collection that is about everyday wearability with a touch of escapism."

Available for preorder now through Aug. 14 at Moda Operandi.

Katharine Hepburn and Marlene Dietrich served as Peter Som's inspiration for his Fall 2012 collection — specifically, their knack for exuding femininity even when they donned menswear. The show started with a pretty ode to Winter white — monochromatic outfits got a textural punch thanks to cool fabric combinations like wool with organza. The play between masculine and feminine came through via tailoring and textures: streamlined silhouettes were softened with details like eyelet and bonded satin. There were strong sculptural references in the ultra-fitted tops that suddenly burst into waves of peplum, and wrap jackets structured with molded balloon sleeves. And what of the glamour that Hollywood icons like Hepburn and Dietrich were famous for? It came through in the luxe furs, particularly a teal fur coat over a twill voile pant that glimmered under the runway lights.

• Trends: Multicolored fur, balloon sleeves, peplum, architectural silhouettes.
• Colors: Plum, emerald, ivory, ruby.
• Key Piece: The peplum tops are a must have for their mix of fantastic tailoring and femininity.
• Accessories: Aperlai did the shoes, including two-tone pumps.
• Who Would Wear It: Olivia Palermo sat front row, and we bet she'll be wearing the peplum tops next season. Confident, fashion-loving girls who crave a statement piece will dig this collection.