Pier Paolo Piccioli

>> Pier Paolo Piccioli and Maria Grazia Chiuri admit that designing for Valentino in tandem "isn’t easy," but they do agree on the general goal for the brand: "I have to say, with this [most recent Valentino] collection, the idea from the very beginning was not to do 'editorial' things just for the sake of it. Because in recent years, the image of fashion has prevailed over traditional fashion, meaning sartorial detailing and workmanship. But fashion designing means creating something using a special technique that might not emerge in a photo, but when you look at it up close, you see that it’s stylish. That’s a cultural problem. Clearly we live in a time where image is more important than content." Piccioli adds: "It’s as if fashion looks at the women who wear it as less valid. Well, if I want to do something artistic, then I’ll make an art installation." [Interview]

Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pier Paolo Piccioli's couture dreams for Valentino came to life through details. Sweet details. Like delicate bows, babydoll cuts, paper-thin lace, soft ruffles, cage frocks, dusty feathers, and larger-than-life rosettes. It was a collection designed for the hyper feminine girl who has nothing but chic, chic, chic on her mind. At times long dresses resemble airy nightgowns, drop-waists bring a fresh feel to red carpet dressing, and sheer details are borderline sexy. While the details and silhouettes are complicated, the color palette is anything but. Three bright red dresses walked down the catwalk, while the remaining pieces were black, off-white, and blush. Will future red carpets reveal a sweeter side? If Valentino couture has anything to do with it, then yes!

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>> Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pier Paolo Piccioli are driving Valentino in a "younger, more contemporary, complete and desirable" direction, according to the brand's CEO Stefano Sassi, and the Fall 2010 Valentino campaign continues that evolution.  Photographers Mert Alas and Marcus Piggott were replaced this season by David Sims, who in what is his first Valentino campaign helped the label with a "radical image change," as WWD put it, capturing Freja Beha Erichsen, Monika Jagaciak, and Tati Cotliar (below) in black and white. Each ad shows the model in two side-by-side images, one of her nude ("shocking," says WWD) and the other fully clothed.

The official word on Valentino's rumored sale »

>> European private equity firm Permira, which bought minority stakes in Valentino and Proenza Schouler in May and July 2007, respectively, is reportedly looking to sell its interest in the labels.  Permira denied that it is putting out feelers, but WWD reports that sources say otherwise, and several investment funds have looked at both labels.

One "well-placed source" is cited as saying that the situation with Proenza Schouler is "all very agreeable . . . [Permira is] trying to find a way out and working on a possible deal together with [Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez] . . . I believe the problem is that the brand is absorbing too much cash: It’s still a small business that requires a lot of investment to grow.”

Why the deal was originally made »

>> Giancarlo Giammetti and Valentino Garavani are no strangers to disparaging Valentino's successors, and after current Valentino designers Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pier Paolo Piccioli presented their Spring 2010 couture collection last month, Giammetti turned to Facebook.

Valentino's longtime business partner posted on his Facebook page that he was “just speechless,” continuing, “not sad…just surprised.…We have always supported the new designers and we love them, but this time we have to distance ourselves from this ridiculous circus.”

Giammetti eventually deleted the comments after the reaction he received, but told WWD yesterday that both he and Garavani “are always supportive of the designers of Valentino, even if we don’t approve of their effort to be cool at all costs.” The house of Valentino declined comment.

>> Christian Lacroix Shows Up on Golden Globes Red Carpet —Christian Lacroix's business may be reduced to licensing at this point in time, but it's a testament that without any new collections being produced, he's still scoring red carpet coups — to wit, his Spring 2009 couture at last night's Golden Globes on the much-watched Diane Kruger. On the other side of the spectrum, houses recently kickstarted under new creative direction also found their footing at the Golden Globes: Nicole Kidman and Carey Mulligan wore Peter Copping's Nina Ricci from Spring 2010, Ginnifer Goodwin was in Spring 2010 Vionnet by Rodolfo Paglialunga, and Chloe Sevigny took home her award in Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pier Paolo Piccioli's Spring 2010 Valentino.