Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaolo Piccioli looked to the swinging silhouettes of the '60s and Andy Warhol's iconic portrait series for Resort 2013. "We imagined a playful and optimistic collection, using color as a structural, rather than decorative, element," Chiuri explained. To that end, there were tulle gowns in princess silhouettes — high necks, long sleeves, flared skirts, nipped waists — embroidered with cotton-candy-hued florals for night, and for day, lounge-ready pantsuits in vivid lace and hyper-colored leopard prints.
When Marcus Wainwright and David Neville's Resort 2013 collection reaches stores in November, Rag & Bone customers will be treated to a collection of cable-knit sweaters, floral and sequin suiting, and some very smart outerwear — wool overcoats, leather jackets, and an olive parka included. There are feminine dresses and skirts, too, and though they might be toughened up with leather elements, their inspiration comes from Victorian petticoats. "It feels odd for me to be saying this," Wainwright said. "But all those lace and gauzy layers are really cool."
For Resort 2013, Peter Dundas took inspiration from safari dressing and army surplus stores, resulting in a collection with an easy-to-wear undercurrent. While he didn't step away from the caftans and sexy, embellished evening gowns he's known for, there was a new focus on options for day as well. Those included embroidered olive cargo pants paired with a bright sky blue double-breasted blazer and shirtdresses cinched at the waist with wide grosgrain belts. Perhaps this newfound dedication to day-to-night dressing has something to do with the 11 new stores the company plans to open soon: Dundas will cut the ribbon at the first New York flagship in September.
A high-contrast mix of textures and a paired-down palette of neutrals dominated Alexander Wang's Resort 2013 collection. The designer said he was interested in "the idea of suspension, cutting things apart and tacking them back together," and the notion manifested itself not just in the designer's use of angular layers and juxtaposed fabrics — slick leather, whisper-light sheers, faux croc, and tactile knits — but also in the cutaway flaps, seamed panels, and delicate straps that dominated each look.
A motley crew of 1970s notables — Bianca Jagger, Marianne Faithfull, Bryan Ferry, and Twiggy among them — as seen on the pages of Peter Schlesinger's photography book Checkered Past had Carven's Guillaume Henry feeling a bit bohemian for Resort 2013. But that doesn't mean the twee gamine suits and collared minidresses that are his hallmark have disappeared. No, they're still here and, with their contrast sleeves and cheery colorblocked hues, they're just as appealing as ever. It's just that this time around they've been loosened up and injected with a newfangled sense of gypsy appeal: flowing silhouettes, drawstring ruffles, and paisley prints.
For Resort 2013, Rachel Comey offered up plenty of citified transitional options — and plenty of the brand's signature downtown cool. Among the standout pieces? A loose-fit peplum tank in soft black leather, a torso-skimming carrot-legged jumpsuit, and a kimono-wrap shift in Comey's newest fabric obsession: stonewashed denim. Also on offer were some terrific prints: a vivid mustard floral and a glorious pink wallpaper motif.