>> Rick Owens offered up a softer side to his usual dark androgyny for Fall 2012. Sure, there was still a heavy dose of toughness — the show came complete with a backdrop of blazing fire and models in knit masks — but this season, there were also flowing silhouettes, nubby wools, and even a dash of color in the form of tan and peach.
Crafted in soft textures, easy shapes, and a mix of draped leather jackets and flowing coats and dresses, the drama of Rick Owens's knitted hats and masks gives way to a much more wearable Fall 2012. We'll have our full review posted shortly. Click through now to see the whole collection.
>> Lanvin, Dior, Balmain, Carven, Rick Owens — the past few days of Paris Fashion Week have been busy ones, so it's no wonder that the backstage mood has been just as high-energy as ever. The ladies of Lanvin played up the mystique with giant fans and new-wave shades; the girls at Dior looked demure in ladylike lipstick and super-sweet poses; and there was plenty of playful frolicking — not to mention an eye-catching array of candy-hued shoes — at Carven. Balmain offered up a dose of rock n' roll glamour with gilded shorts and heavy hardware, while the ethereal vibe at Rick Owens made for lots of ghoulish creeping. All the behind-the-scenes action and more, here in the slideshow.
Photos by Greg Kessler
“I always resented the idea of radical silhouettes or exaggeration being confined to the runway,” said Owens, when describing his Spring collection. “That kind of extremity should be accessible all day long.” That said, wearability was key for Owens, as seen through the simple cotton and leather fabrics he juxtaposed into a '60s couture-inspired line. Long, lean pillar skirts were the focal point, paired with a range of structured and voluminous tops. Most notably were the array of modern patchwork jackets and exaggerated bell-sleeved renditions. Meanwhile, flowy draped skirts and intricately ruched gowns provided a softer touch to the collection. The color palette stayed true to his aesthetic, featuring predominately black, white, and gray hues, but there was also experimentation with a warm clay hue. “There’s no irony," said Owens. "It’s not particularly witty. There’s no menace. This time, it’s really pure, simple grace.” More details from the collection below.
- Trends: Minimalism, pillar skirts, draped skirts, patchwork jackets, volume.
- Colors: Black, white, gray, clay.
- Key Look: The patchwork jackets with bell sleeves and pillar skirts.
- Accessories: Minimal platform sandals.
- Who Would Wear It: Girls who crave strong, yet minimal looks.
>> Read between the lines with these: the best of the upcoming season's fashion tomes. From designer anthologies to magazine compendiums to haute biographies — there are three on Coco Chanel alone — this Fall is, literally, one for the books. In fact, it seems like everyone who's anyone will debut a coffee-table edition come October: Carine Roitfeld, Rick Owens, Ralph Lauren, Christian Louboutin, and Glenda Bailey all have glossy monographs on the way. Here, the volumes we just can't wait to devour.
Kim Kardashian rocked leather and studs while lunching with her grandmother in Beverly Hills. Kim's effortless ensemble —distressed Jet by John Eshaya skinnies, studded Christian Louboutin booties, and washed-leather Rick Owens jacket — was perfect for a Summer stroll. Her red Alexander McQueen scarf and neon Hermès tote added an essential pop of color. Get Ms. Kardashian's exact jacket and scarf with other complementing items here.
>> Gareth Pugh has come a long way from living in a squat house in 2005. The road hasn't been an easy one, however, he tells Vice in its new Style Issue: "We didn’t sell anything from the poodle or gimp shows — nothing until the fourth or fifth show. My first show was such a last-minute thing. I was only really thinking about the show and not selling stuff afterward. But once you start showing, you’re on the treadmill and have to carry on." Even a couple of years ago, he says, "There was a point, right before a show, when I barely had enough money to get my team over to Paris."
But now, Pugh is definitely starting to consider the financial aspect of his brand (and perhaps explains why he leans toward short films in place of runway shows): "At the moment I feel very much between a rock and a hard place. People expect an amazing show, but in order to do that in Paris you have to sell a lot of clothes, which maybe means people have to be able to imagine the clothes on hangers."
More from Pugh in Vice:
On why he opened his first store in Hong Kong: "Rick Owens’s wife, Michelle Lamy [Pugh's backer], thinks moneyed Chinese women like to look very chic, like avant-garde punks. I just make more sense over there. In America I’m seen as a little bit niche and weird."
On his relationship with Rick Owens: "I’m closer to his wife, Michelle. He always describes himself as the distant, stern father figure and she is like the overgenerous mother. She’s very critical about what I do, which I like. It’s good to have someone who doesn’t always give you unadulterated praise."
On his strangest fashion industry experiences: "Driving to the Palace of Versailles with Jeremy Scott, Suzy Menkes, Jefferson Hack, and Anouck Lepere was pretty funny. Everyone wanted to see this Jeff Koons exhibition — Anouck tried to climb the fence, Jefferson got into a fight with a security guard, and Suzy Menkes was taking pictures. That was weird. Oh, and the time I’d booked my housemates a holiday in Gran Canaria but got flown to New York to shoot with Mario Testino. I ended up at the Met Ball afterward and found myself having a fag with Christian Slater in the toilets while David Beckham took a piss at the urinal. The toilets there are a real superstar clusterf*ck. I just couldn’t work out why I was there."
On the clothes he wears: "I never buy clothes, so I don’t really have a choice when it comes to what I wear. I am very lucky to be able to pull a lot of Rick Owens and steal some of my stuff from the factory. (I have to steal my own samples [because] I don’t get a personal order quota. It’s a license.) But other than that I buy H&M hoodies and Topshop jeans."
On why he doesn't use much color: "The designs are more about the whole thing rather than the details, and if I were to do the big shapes I do, color would maybe be too much. Pink or red would push it all over the edge."
New mom Miranda Kerr was all smiles while strolling around Paris before strutting her stuff in the Balenciaga show. Her floral Balenciaga mini was complemented by her peplum Rick Owens leather jacket, patent Prada booties, and blue Balenciaga tote. She added a gray scarf and a navy wide-brimmed fedora to complete her Paris-chic look. Shop all of the key pieces now.