Rochas

Marco Zanini clearly had volume and proportion on his mind when he designed Rochas's Fall 2013 collection. The offering, which came down a staircase and then down a runway in Paris on Wednesday, was filled with generous circle skirts, oversize outerwear, and jackets so big they had to be cinched in with wide belts to create a waist.

See the entire collection here.

There was an optimistic sportiness in Marco Zanini's outing at Rochas on Wednesday that didn't simply come from the white wrestling boots he paired with the looks he sent down the runway. For all their fine fabrication (taffeta here, cloque there) and ladylike posturing, the garments in this collection looked as though they were made to move. Sure, there were bralette tops, easy shirtdresses, and a gauzy pleated skirt that left a slipstream of fabric trailing close behind the model wearing it on the runway. But there were also polo shirts (tucked into skirts or elongated into dresses in their own right), luxe three-quarter-length cardigans, and midriff-baring, well, everything that were as easy to slip on as they were to look at and admire.

For Rochas's Spring '13 collection, Marco Zanini showed a whimsical collection filled with retro nostalgia with a sporty twist, as evidenced in the white rubber-like wrestling shoes he paired with almost every look. Structured polo shirts were paired with shorts, baggy trousers were styled with cropped shirts, and large, oversize midlength full skirts were paired up with cropped blouses. It was all about contrast and proportion, which Zanini further exemplified with a selection of voluminous capes and shirtdresses. Meanwhile, languid slip dresses and sheer maxi dresses injected a soft, much needed feminine touch to the collection — we especially loved the simple metallic silver rendition.

• Trends: Retro and sporty influences, floral prints, crop tops, slip dresses.
• Colors: Hot fuchsia, silver, gray, white, black.
• Key Piece: The hot fuchsia polo tunic top and matching shorts were adorable.
• Accessories: Rubber-like wrestling shoes, head wraps, round sunglasses, structured leather satchels.
• Who Should Wear It: Who likes feminine pieces with a little retro touch? Sarah Jessica Parker, Emma Stone, and Olivia Palermo.

For Rochas's Fall 2012 collection, Marco Zanini culled inspiration from the midcentury ceramics of Swedish artist Wilhelm Kåge, highlighting a range of colorful suits and separates. While the focus was on ladylike dressing, Zanini injected a quirky touch into every look, pairing printed tights with boucle coats, patterned pencil skirts, and the geek chic glasses to match. Highlights included the well-tailored suits and skirts; the latter featured a range of full and form-fitting shapes. For gowns, Zanini created decadent voluminous gowns made out of thick washed silks — we can totally picture celeb style setters like Tilda Swinton wearing one of those creations on the red carpet. More details from the collection below.

• Trends: Printed suits, ladylike dressing.
• Colors: Blue, mustard yellow, purple, camel, lavender.
• Key Piece: The printed suit sets immediately caught our attention.
• Accessories: Printed tights, tribal necklaces, oxfords, shawl scarves, satchel bags.
• Who Would Wear It: Girls who crave polished quirk, like front-row attendee Olivia Palermo, and Tilda Swinton.

>> Watery grid prints, shiny jacquards, and a dusky autumnal palette took center stage in Marco Zanini's Fall 2012 offering for Rochas. Silhouettes were buttoned-up, vaguely '60s, and tinged with a bit of librarian quirk — think twee ankle pants, double-breasted coats, printed tights, and Iris Apfel-esque glasses. Bouclé knits and a bit of fur added texture — and kept it all feeling luxe.