Roksanda Ilincic

Cotton-candy pinks and minty greens aren't the kinds of hues one expects to see on a Fall runway, but then again, Roksanda Ilincic isn't just any old designer. "I wanted to have a breath of Spring fresh air and break with tradition," the designer explained. By working that pastel palette into softly feminine silhouettes in fluttering silk and pearlized PVC, that mission was definitely accomplished.

But if featherweight dresses in ice-cream hues sound a tad impractical for October's frosty chill, don't worry: Ilincic's got you covered — literally. Cuddly fur coats and midi-length skirts in fuzzy chenille were plenty present, too, as was a generous helping of crackly eggplant-colored neoprene.

Roksanda Ilincic was in a pretty-in-pink state of mind for Fall 2013, but don't expect overtly feminine wares from the designer known for her modern, streamlined silhouettes. Utilizing a mix of textured wool, PVC, and fur, Ilincic paired glossy, full skirts with cropped sweaters, long overcoats with midi skirts, and fuzzy caplets with streamlined sheaths. Meanwhile, splashes of bright green, black, and chocolate brown tempered the designer's pink story. Also of note were the shoes: tonal striped lace-up booties completed Ilincic's whimsically modern Fall lineup. Just click through to see the most stunning looks from the runway.

While many of her contemporaries in London were focused on sweet embellishment and feminine shapes, Roksanda Ilincic drew inspiration from world-renowned artists to create a Spring 2013 collection with serious force.

The color-splicing work of Niki de Saint Phalle and the palette of Josef Albers's canvases blended together to inform the way llincic blocked colors in this offering. While the combinations were visually interesting all around (the first exit was a black dress with a cobalt blue collar, white bishop's sleeves and generous orange cuffs), the technique really made an impact with Ilincic's cocktail dresses. Here there were undulating panels of black joined to cream, or pink shooting into black and blue. The effect of easy-to-wear, graphically astute garments like this, of course, means power dressing that doesn't sap any of the wearer's strength.

Cold shoulders? Roksanda Ilincic's answer is a Fall 2012 collection of sheath dresses, tailored trousers, and slouchy sweatshirts all topped with fur trim. It's the modern girl's cold-weather wardrobe — complete with the most sophisticated play on buffalo plaid (yes, sophisticated plaid) we've ever seen embellished onto deep burgundy dresses and bold bright blue pencil skirts. Silhouettes too speak to that modern proportion — slouchier tops and slim-cut skirts. Nothing is too literal; while sporty references abound with hooded sweatshirts, relaxed trousers, or full jumpsuits, Roksanda counters with luxe fur trim on the same laid-back toppers. She always remembers her clientele with the feminine allure they crave. To that note, there are the classic ladylike silhouettes — sheaths finished with a flutter of ruffles at the hem or a sharp little dress with just the right draping. It's not hard to imagine Roksanda's fans like Kate Middleton or Michelle Obama slipping into any of the designer's perfectly crafted dresses.

• Trends: Full skirts, buffalo plaid, brights, fur trim, sporty dressing, menswear.
• Colors: Black, red, bright blue, yellow, purple, gray, and white.
• Key Piece: We love the embellished take on buffalo plaid, especially the deep red and black sheath.
• Accessories: Yellow ankle-strap pumps, slouchy bucket bags.
• Who Would Wear It: Polished feminine types who crave sophisticated cuts and statement color; fans like Michelle Obama and Keira Knightley.

>> Roksanda Ilincic's particular breed of edgy elegance was in full effect for Fall 2012. The designer found inspiration from "leisurewear, weekendwear, countryside wear," and mixed it with slouchy menswear silhouettes and superluxe fabrics for a sporty kind of refinement. "It is a little bit about women rebelling at having to look immaculate all the time and wanting to become more free like a man," the designer explained.