For all the tartan, kilts, and handbags worn like sporrans in Moschino's Fall 2013 collection, Rossella Jardini could have moved her show from Milan to Edinburgh. Jardini has been influenced by her Anglophilia in the past, but this show opened with a series of looks that celebrated the Scottish Highlands. Blazers, coats, and dresses cut from a variety of tartans came down the runway first, some of them paired with oversize riding helmets, or accented with crests and flower embroidery. Other looks were sleeker, like a pair of gray pinstriped suits and a black dress accented with what looks like white stitching. But by and large, this ode to British fashion had a buttoned-up sense of playfulness and fun that's sure to sell well from Rome to London and beyond.
Rossella Jardini's Spring 2013 collection for Moschino was a graphically bold and wildly colorful love letter to the shapes and spirit of the '60s. The show opened with models wearing helmets, oversize glasses, and demure white gloves — Jacqueline Kennedy Onassis on a horse, anyone? — clad in black and white ensembles held shut with shiny round buttons. Then came trendy black and white stripes on everything from suits to miniskirts, and then colorful cocktail dresses, either in solid shades of pink and yellow or printed with Moschino's signature hearts and flowers. Things ended on a sweet note: fresh white eyelet dresses that were an effective palette cleanser after all the graphic edge that came before them.
With its first look, Moschino inspired a bit of an Austin Powers flashback — a colorblocked suede jacket and jacquard flares could have been a look straight from the cheeky, '60s-set film, or straight out of the psychedelic era altogether. That's the first impression, anyway: bold prints, exposed midriffs, and oversize, colored sunglasses that seemed to draw directly from the disco era. But upon closer inspection, there's much more at work here — a collection that's a testament to the here and now of fashion, too. Designer Rossella Jardini blends both the retro references (like a maxi with an actual peace sign worked into the colorblocking) with tribal-feeling prints washed onto little dresses and pantsuits. And to complete her looks, bright sneakers seem to point more directly to the trendier stuff, as does a sheer play on athletic wares, intermingling with the lineup of jacquard, embellished dressing, and slick patent coats.
- Trends: Crop-tops, bold prints, colorblocking, sneakers, sheer, jumpsuits, and flares.
- Colors: Black, white, pink, green, black, purple, red, and orange.
- Key Piece: The pineapple-printed crop-top and trousers are especially fun.
- Accessories: Oversize, colored sunglasses, sneakers, chunky platforms, cheeky purses.
- Who Should Wear It: This is not for the wallflowers; we could see Gwen Stefani in a pair of the printed flares or showing off those famous abs in one of the crop-tops.
Rossella Jardini could have found subtler ways to announce the '70s inspiration behind her Spring 2013 collection for Moschino Cheap & Chic than by affixing a purple peace sign to the front of a maxi dress, but they wouldn't have been nearly as fun. In fact, this entire offering is fun: fun to look at and probably even more fun to wear. How could one possibly feel unhappy and uninspired wearing an orange neon suit with crystal-studded lapels, or a dip-dyed green-and-black shirtdress worn with a purse shaped like a pineapple? Pineapples showed up elsewhere as a print, in one case on one of the collection's many pairs of bell-bottoms. Mesh shirts and shiny coats in red and blue were equally irreverent — and so were a few sweet printed cocktail dresses shown with Moschino's answer to Saucony sneakers.
It's always a rollicking good time to look at a Moschino show, and the Fall 2012 collection brings us a quirky mix of styles — military, ski, '60s — all filtered through the Moschino prism of color and indulgent detail. Short, flirty dresses were outfitted with feathers and abundant ruffles, capes and jackets were outfitted with military epaulettes, capes featured quilted fronts, and skirts were unabashedly mini — forget all the ladylike midi lengths we've been seeing on the runways elsewhere. Bright poppy colors on structured minis and coats harkened to the '60s. The Moschino lady is one who still loves dressing up the way she did in high school, stealing her chic mother's clothes and wearing them all at once in a jubilant mix. It's never too serious, which is why it continues to be so much fun.
- Trends: Military, ski, '60s, feathers, ruffles, quilting.
- Colors: Purple, royal blue, pink, red, yellow.
- Key Piece: The fun dresses — one in pink ruffles, the other in blue feathers — for a party, military jackets.
- Accessories: Patent-leather platform booties, quilted purses, and even really-cute fanny packs.
- Who Would Wear It: Katy Perry could rock this entire collection.
Moschino's Rossella Jardini took a trip to Spain for the brand's Spring collection, showing beaded matador-inspired jackets, embellished skirts, fringed tops, and toreador hats. Dramatic, high-impact pieces that were tempered with romantic ruffled wrap dresses and lace bias-cut gowns made to flatter the figure. Described by Jardini as "very feminine and sensual but not sexy," the collection hit all the notes of the brand's signature bold-with-a-twist-of-fun style. The embellished jackets, which featured bells that jingled, were especially fun. Meanwhile, floral print peasant skirts, embroidered shorts, and printed smock tops provided chic options for daywear. More details from the collection below.
- Trends: Embellished bolero jackets, fringe, knee-length skirts, short shorts, ruffles, peasant skirts.
- Colors: Yellow, black, white, tan.
- Key Look: We love the embellished bolero jackets and sexy ruffled wrap dresses.
- Accessories: Gold ankle-wrap sandals, oversize earrings, toreador hats, double cuff bracelets, cat-eye sunglasses, bright beaded clutches, and small bags.
- Who Would Wear It: Girls who crave high-drama statement pieces.
Peter Som officially parted ways with Bill Blass, owned by NexCen Brands Inc, and there are horror stories about embroiderers not getting paid to prove it. NexCen scraped Som's Spring 09 runway show, which was when the news leaked that Som would be leaving.
Today we learned ten reasons why we should be shopping again and, more importantly, that Net-a-Porter is opening an "outlet and sample sale priced sister site" called theoutnet.com. This is bigger than Topshop.
Moschino celebrates their 25th and Rossella Jardini, the low-profile Creative Director behind the brand, talks about her approach to fashion. Moschino; known for its playful style, and Jardini; who is not impressed with the so-called glamorous life, are a match made in heaven. Unless you call luxury price points glamorous.