Runway Reviews

Elie Saab might be known for his gorgeous red carpet gowns, but for Spring '13, the designer also showed off his penchant for daywear. The show opened up with an array of sleek work appropriate trousers, tailored blazers, silk blouses, and sleek sheath dresses fit for the working "heiress" he had in mind. Bold, abstract prints came into play, highlighting highlighting billowy dresses and gowns, some of which featured modern ribbon detailing. And like any working heiress (Saab mentioned artists and bloggers in his show notes), a day is not complete without attending a few glamorous parties and events. Thus, he provided red carpet worthy options with a bevy of gorgeous sheer lace gowns, one of which showcased a high slit juxtaposed against a sheer collared top, and beaded minidresses.

• Trends: Blue hues, sheer layers, sparkle/shine, lace.
• Colors: Cobalt blue, dusty pink, red, black, white.
• Key Piece: The dark cobalt blue gown with the sheer lace top was beautiful.
• Accessories: Ankle strap sandals, leather satchel bags, structured crossover bags.
• Who Should Wear It: Ladies who love the sparkle and lace like Keira Knightley and Zoe Saldana.

Miuccia Prada delved into the past, specifically the '50s, for Miu Miu's effortlessly ladylike Spring '13 collection. "It's elegance done a different way," said Prada. With that notion in mind, she created impossibly refined dark denim skirt suits paired with crop tops and point-toe pumps, pencil skirts with patent jackets, and smart shift dresses worn under long car coats — all accessorized with leather gloves and fold-over satchels to complete the composed feminine look. While fur is not usually associated with Spring collections, Prada broke the barriers with an assortment of fur stoles slung over the shoulder and colored fur coats. Meanwhile, textural pieces, like the crinkled skirts and tops and dimensional abstract prints, showed off a modern element in Prada's chic offerings. Most notable was the forest-green car coat paired with the patent tan-colored pencil skirt — easy, unfussy, with just the right amount of panache.

• Trends: Oversize silhouettes, leather, statement prints.
• Colors: Indigo, white, tan, brown, red, forest green, gray.
• Key Piece: The denim skit suits were the perfect juxtaposition between casual and chic.
• Accessories: Leather fold-over tote bags, crackled point-toe pumps, stone bracelets, ballet flats, leather gloves, jewel-embellished flat sandals, fur scarves, point-toe flats, collar necklaces.
• Who Should Wear It: We can see fashion daredevil Solange Knowles in the sleek denim skirt suits and Carey Mulligan in Miu Miu's silk printed sheath dresses.

Check out all the pictures from Louis Vuitton's Spring 2013 collection, and come back soon for our full review.

Sarah Burton's Spring '13 collection for Alexander McQueen was quite literally buzzing with excitement. With models decked out in elaborate honeycomb beekeeper hats, Burton created a truly masterful collection, inspired by Alberto Vargas's pinup images, filled with dramatic hoopskirts, ornate detailing, and some of the most inventive looks we've seen yet. It was a dramatic entrance as the show opened up with cropped honeycomb trousers paired with a gold peplum jacquard blazer — accessorized with gorgeous amber-hued jewelry reminiscent of bee nectar. More sweetness followed suit highlighting fit-and-flare skirts, resin bustiers, structured mesh tops, and hot shorts all featuring Burton's bee theme. Watching the collection go down the aisle was like studying art, further exemplified by Burton's impressive array of evening wear. Corset minidresses were paired up with netted thigh-high boots, billowy off-shoulder renditions revealed a honeycomb bodice underneath, and the grand finale, a showstopping array of red, yellow, and black crinoline gowns, simply took our breath away. Indeed, there's no question that Paris saved the best for last.

• Trends: Jacquard, statement prints, shine, full skirts, structured silhouettes.
• Colors: Gold, black, yellow, red, cream, dark green, amber.
• Key Piece: If we had to choose, we'd go with the most wearable look; the honeycomb pants and gold peplum jacquard blazer combo was amazing.
• Accessories: Modern honeycomb hats, bee-embellished cuffs, necklaces, and belts, shimmery ankle-wrap strapped shoes with honeycomb mesh detailing, patent honeycomb satchels, thigh-high honeycomb mesh boots, corset belts.
• Who Should Wear It: Ladies looking to add a lot of drama on the red carpet like Lady Gaga and Elizabeth Banks.

Paul & Joe designer Sophie Albou crafted a collection that made us yearn for the carefree days of Summer. Marked by a warm palette of colorful prints, then juxtaposed against a crisp set of collared white blouses, tapered trousers, and long tomboyish shorts, it felt all at once beachy, youthful, and very chic. What caught our eye most, though — because let's face it, it was a very pretty lineup — were the oversize two-tone knit tops made for a chilly evening, the baseball jackets reworked with pale blue railroad stripes and floral-printed shoulder details, and the silver metallic minidress that was equal parts formal and laid-back against a sporty denim jacket. This is the kind of Spring '13 collection that never tried to be anything but playful and sweet, and sometimes that's all you really need when constructing your warm-weather wardrobe.

The Chanel show has gone beyond just the occasion of presenting a collection; it's a cultural event that draws a fair share of hard-core fans. Outside the Grand Palais this morning in Paris, it was a surreal scene of Chanel devotees, done up in head-to-toe Chanel outfits, coming out in honor of the iconic house. It was like a costume party in the front, with a whole other kind of scene by the backstage entrance on the side of the Grand Palais, where the celebrity attendees entered — French beauties like Inès de la Fressange and Lou Doillon looked laid-back and classic, while Jennifer Lopez almost caused a photographers' stampede as she entered with boyfriend Casper.

Then, there was the dramatic setting. Nearly full-size wind turbines had been set up inside the glass-domed Grand Palais, with a runway that looked like solar panels, leading us to expect an airy collection with a futuristic vibe — but don't think spaceships; think of a nicer, greener world where we've figured out solar energy and have clean air. The turbines showed up literally via appliqué on dresses and a printed knit. There was also an airiness to the sheer pieces (a huge trend for Spring) and the easy strapless column dresses, while the cropped jackets with big cocoon sleeves definitely took Chanel forward in terms of modern silhouettes. Graphic prints made an appearance, sharp and crisp on sculptural looks like an oversize top and skirt. Another trend playing out for Spring was spotted at Chanel — styling dresses over pants, and here it was also done with color, like blue on purple and pink on violet.

Accessories were a highlight. We got a sneak peek at the jewelry being made yesterday at the studio of Parisian jewelry designer Delphine-Charlotte Parmentier, who has collaborated with Chanel for years, and how exciting it was to see the piles of oversize pearl necklaces on the models. It was classic Chanel, blown up. Wide sun hats featured clear plastic brims and oversize bags that looked like gigantic discs contributed to the natural/futuristic vibe. Finally, the shoes were a winner: two-toned platform sandals that strapped around the ankle and were done in tones of black, white, and silver.

And as for the winning looks? I think it was the simplest ones — the strapless column dresses, some dotted with pearls, others with flowers, and one stunner in black with white trim. The cropped jackets will look great in the pages of the fashion magazines next season, but it's a tough silhouette to wear, while the waist-length jackets, particularly a white cocoon version with black-and-white tweed trim, would look simply perfect with skinny jeans, a tee, and classic pumps.

As one of the most anticipated shows of the season — with a modified name, restructured logo, and, oh yeah, designer Hedi Slimane at the helm — it would be fair to say that Saint Laurent Spring '13 had some high expectations to live up to. Of course, it took all of half a second for us to remember why we've held Slimane in such high esteem since his days at Dior Homme. The proof was in his careful crafting and reverence to the label's legendary silhouettes, as much as it could be seen in his interpretation of Parisian-chic through an LA rock 'n' roll lens. The colorful evening caftan gowns were accented with long tassled necklaces and flowy capes, ultratailored silhouettes (we're taking superslim-cut trousers paired with and blazers) took on a more bohemian vibe via wide-brimmed floppy fedoras and loosely adorned bows, and the recognizable safari-chic dresses from seasons past came complete with sexy lace-up fronts and were finished with touches of Western-inspired fringe. From start to finish, there was an overwhelming sense of "cool" that couldn't be shaken — nor would you want to shake it — and while this debut collection from Slimane didn't override older notions of the iconic brand entirely, it certainly took aspects of Saint Laurent's past in a new, youthful direction.

• Trends: Slimmer-than-slim silhouettes, dramatic large floppy hats, embellishments of every kind (fringe, studs, sheer panels, tassels, bows, etc.), the caftan, and tailored blazers.
• Colors: Black, white, tan, brown, taupe, merlot red, and metallic gold — with a parade of red, blue, and purple at the show's end.
• Key Piece: The caftan-meets-ruffled color evening gowns — especially in that deep burgundy hue.
• Accessories: The essential platform pump, wide-brimmed hats, long tasseled necklaces, and floor-skimming capes.
• Who Should Wear It: Front-row attendees Kate Moss and Jessica Chastain will definitely do the collection justice. Moreover, we think Slimane's newly installed brand of bohemian cool has Nicole Richie and Rachel Zoe written all over it.

This year marks 60 years for Chloé, but the French house is still as flirty and free-spirited as it was when Gaby Aghion founded it. The collection was shown under a big, airy white tent with an open roof so we could see the sunshine through the trees of the Tuileries above. It was the perfect setting for a collection that was all about volume, not the heavy, structured kind that weighs you down (or makes your hair stand up) but the kind of volume that makes clothes float and swish. Designer Clare Waight-Keller employed sheer fabrics, mesh, tulle, and big ruffles to make that point and cut slouchy, oversize shorts and pants that won't look great on anyone but will look fantastic on the right person. The ruffles — oversize ones adorning sleeves and hems — didn't feel too girlie because the silhouettes were kept minimal and clean. The color palette helped too — the show opened with all white before introducing ochre, peach, navy, and earthy neutrals. Even the girliest indulgence — floral appliqué on a short swingy skirt and down one leg of a pair of oversize pants — felt cool rather than overwrought. Those who love accessories will adore the metallic ankle-strap heels, which are a sure must have for next Spring, and the newest Amelia bag with beautiful contrasting trim and deco-inspired resin detailing.

For Giambattista Valli's Spring '13 collection, the designer showed off his impeccable tailoring skills through a mix of gorgeous embellished dresses and more modern separates, ultimately providing options for the woman who takes her day from the office to cocktail parties. For daywear, Valli highlighted clean cut separates - ankle crop trousers paired with chic vests, tailored jumpsuits, wrap skirts, and peplum blazers - emoting a minimal, yet elegant effect. Meanwhile, the designer showed a more risqué approach with his array of sheer dresses leaving quite little to the imagination. Some of them featured a thick hemline while others showed gorgeous floral appliqué embroidery. We especially loved the sheer white sheath dresses cinched in with a matching slim leather belt. More details from the collection below.

• Trends: Sheer layers, crop tops, peplum.
• Colors: White. red, gray, black, pale yellow, gold.
• Key Piece: The sheer floral embellished dresses were gorgeous.
• Accessories: Metallic point-toe pumps, leather clutches, modern metallic cuffs and necklaces.
• Who Should Wear It: Who's looking for ladylike looks with a twist? Jessica Biel, Zoe Saldana, and Emma Stone come to mind.

Check out all the pictures from Givenchy's Spring 2013 collection and check back soon for our full review.