Runway Reviews

Bill Gaytten did not hold back on the drama factor for John Galliano's Spring '13 collection. Gone were the overembellishments we're used to seeing from Gaytten’s predecessor, and instead, the designer gave the collection a different kind of theatricality. It was all about structure and volume as the models marched down the runway decked in huge tulle Stephen Jones hats and equally oversize trousers, printed gowns, and billowy tops. Most looks were dipped in hues of salmon pink, lilac, black, and white, but there was also the occasional pop of prints — highlighting an image of a man soaring across the sky — splashed on voluminous skirts and gowns. Details showed a Japanese influence via intricate pleating and folding technique. While it's hard to picture most of this collection worn on the street, we can easily imagine Hollywood stunners like Cate Blanchett and Julianne Moore working these dramatic silhouettes on the red carpet.

• Trends: Japanese influence, volume, long, oversize shorts.
• Colors: Black, blue, lilac, salmon pink, white, citron, navy.
• Key Piece: The lilac draped dress showed perfect restraint and drama.
• Accessories: Statement hats by Stephen Jones, leather ankle boots, patent pumps, ankle-strap pumps
• Who Should Wear It: We can see Gaytten's artistic creations on the more daring type like Rihanna and Lady Gaga and classic red carpet types like Blanchett and Moore.

Whether you're a modern girl or effortless bohemian, Christophe Lemaire has you covered for Hermès's Spring '13. His latest collection for the brand showed a mix of sharp leather separates cut on colorful leather and, for the more spirited at heart, a beautiful array of draped printed silks. Lemaire melded the season's prevalent leather and sportif theme into tailored mustard yellow leather dresses, colorblocked pencil skirts, and a gorgeous array of tailored croc leather shorts. Meanwhile, the brand's iconic scarf prints were turned into baggy silk shorts paired with tailored blazers, billowy trousers, and tunic dresses adding an exotic touch to the overall feel of the collection. For its iconic accessories, the brand highlighted a chic weekender version of the Birkin, folded leather clutches, and even backpacks for the well-traveled nomad. With Hermès's a-little-bit-of-everything approach for Spring, we're sure there's something to please every sartorial eye.

• Trends: Leather, bold prints, long shorts, colorblocking.
• Colors: Red, cobalt, camel, white, seafoam, ecru, teal, mustard, camel.
• Key Piece: The scarf-print shorts paired with the tailored floral-printed blazer and tie was the perfect mixed-print mashup.
• Accessories: Point-toe pumps, mini leather gloves, disc bracelets, folded clutches, backpacks, weekender bags.
• Who Should Wear It: The tailored separates on Tilda Swinton and the printed pieces on Solange.

If you can tear your eyes away from the parade of fuzzy slippers coming down the runway, then you can refocus your attention to the Spring lineup offered up by minimalist maestro Phoebe Philo. Above the ankles, Philo's collection delves into new territory, most notably with her accessories, but also with other twists — quite literally: the twisted fabric looped over a shoulder and fastened across the chests and waists of her tops, creating a new architectural storyline in the midst of her simplified, more menswear-informed silhouettes. To that end, we also get get unfinished, raw hemlines that felt a little disheveled, a little sexy maybe. Speaking of sexy, there was that, too — a pretty obvious nod to more sensuous Spring dressing with curve-conscious v-neck dresses, inset with eye-catching netting. As far as wearability, Philo's slouchy separates and clean-cropped leather may rank highest on that list, but it's the shoes and accessories that fascinate — and if the success of Céline's other handbags are any indication, then it's the fresh riffs on the clutch (resembling a kind of luxe paper-bag lunch) that will likely be the biggest draw come Spring.

• Trends: Netting, leather, and crop tops.
• Colors: White, black, navy, and a pop of pastel.
• Key Piece: The sexy dresses with deep necklines inset with netting.
• Accessories: Fuzzy, slipper-style flats and pumps, and roll-top clutches.
• Who Should Wear It: Chloë Sevigny and Anna Dello Russo in the shoes, while we're sure the rest of the fashion elite will be toting the new clutches next season.

Humberto Leon and Carol Lim looked to the Southeast Asian jungles for inspiration, but the fully realized Spring '13 lineup was the kind of safari-inspired style that's more suited to the city. A punchy palette of orange and green was made all the more playful with oversize leopard spots (that start to look more like flowers than animal prints) and all-over abstract jungle prints. Of course, even if print isn't your thing, hear us out: they feel infinitely more contemporary worn with the line's cropped, safari-style jackets or tempered with buttery leather sleeves. And, if you're seeking something sexier, Kenzo answers with its off-the-shoulder dresses, bustier-style tops, and cinched waists.

• Trends: Animal-inspired prints and colorful jungle prints, jumpsuits, cutouts, vests, and safari-inspired silhouettes.
• Colors: White, yellow, orange, purple, blue, emerald and olive greens, and khaki.
• Key Piece: The orange printed pants and blouse topped with cropped olive jacket.
• Accessories: Oversize jewels, slouchy knee-high boots, structured satchels, strappy heels, and colored shades.
• Who Should Wear It: Gwen Stefani could pull off even the cutout look.

Check out all the pictures from Jean Paul Gaultier's Spring 2013 collection and come back soon for our full review.

An organic color palette of black, sand, and rust set the stage for Loewe's Parisian-chic Spring 2013 collection. Designer Stuart Vevers brought a crisp minimalism to the runway, offering up chic bra tops, formfitting pencil skirts, hooded leather jackets, and sleek laser-cut suede lace pieces like trench coats and shift dresses. Vevers found inspiration for his collection in Gala Dalí, the wife and muse of Surrealist painter Salvador Dalí — a woman whose mystery and sex appeal was trumped only by her sense of adventure. The designer captured that fearless spirit in travel-worn utilitarian pieces like a low-cut suede safari dress and artfully draped hooded coats and introduced a new spin on ladylike dressing. It also makes perfect sense that the Loewe Spring '13 collection was styled by another strong, daring woman with a glamorous edge — Carine Roitfeld.

If you were expecting Vivienne Westwood to deliver a Spring '13 collection built upon her iconic corseted silhouettes, fearless patterns, and downright zany embellishments, then you have come to the right place. While the hair-raising updos and heart-shaped face makeup could have been indicative of the clothing's equally fantastical appeal, it was far from an abstract lineup. In fact, it felt like one of Westwood's more wearable collections in recent seasons. The gowns — injected with dramatic trains, corseted bustiers, and even a hint of an accentuated hip shape — were doubly glamorous, thanks to the designer's affinity for costume-jewelry add-ons. But the gowns weren't the only pieces adorned with beautiful brooches and gem-encrusted pins. Tapestry-printed pantsuits and mini-jumpsuits also topped the list of looks that got the jazzed-up treatment. We spotted a jaw-dropping metallic column dress worthy of Diane Kruger's next red-carpet appearance mixed in with artfully draped sheaths detailed with pockets and oversize blazers presented with a strong shoulder statement. According to Westwood's Spring, you can have your eclectic costume style — all with a very wearable twist.

• Trends: Tapestry prints, costume-jewelry embellishments, corseted silhouettes, and bold shoulders.
• Colors: Metallic hues mixed in with navy, citron, pale blue, pink, black, nude, and lavender.
• Key Piece: The gold textured column dress, finished off with a large bejeweled crab brooch on the bustier.
• Accessories: Croc-skin clutches, printed platform sandals, knee-high gladiator sandals, every kind of costume-jewelry accent you could dream of, and patterned totes.
• Who Should Wear It: Diane Kruger, Anne Hathaway, and Sarah Jessica Parker.

From the black-and-white Viktor & Rolf Spring '13 checkerboard catwalk, out stepped a plethora of stunning looks, drenched in pleated metallics, stark white contrasts, and shards of mosaic glass. Without a doubt, Viktor Horsting and Rolf Snoeren tapped into every girl's fashion fantasyland, even going so far as to literally include the "looking glass mirror" as the official runway entrance. The collection tied together references to an ethereal Rapunzel-like character and unadulterated Hollywood glamour, then contrasted its soft, dreamy edge with sharp lines, graphic shapes, and a monochromatic palette. It was an even-keeled blend of the ultrafeminine (trousers and blouses with bows nestled in the shoulders and at the waist; semisheer maxi skirts; mirror "embroidery" of roses and bows) vs. the tougher pantsuits and chunky fur-laden outerwear. Pretty enough for the romantics, but never ever deviating from the tried-and-true Viktor & Rolf fashion formula: a sophisticated turn of smart, witty pieces.

• Trends: Tulle overlays, accordion pleats, mirror embroidery, cropped outerwear, maxi skirt silhouettes.
• Colors: Black, white, soft pink, peach, lavender, and pops of metallic silver and metallic purple.
• Key Piece: It's a tie for most eye-catching use of silver. We're most partial to the metallic silver-pleated gowns and the mirror-embroidered white maxi skirts.
• Accessories: Black T-strap sandals, silver T-strap sandals and pumps.
• Who Should Wear It: Katy Perry for the bolder mirror-laden gowns and Eva Mendes for those gorgeous pleated siren gowns.

Haider Ackermann's Spring '13 collection was tinged with traditional Japanese origami influences, and kept in a moody color palette of black, grays, and browns. Ackermann's signature expert tailoring and love for layering really shone through — airy silk polka-dot print blouses were draped off the shoulder and topped with louche silk bed jackets, while low-cut tops and leather bandeaus got a jolt from tweedy jackets cinched at the waist with wide obi-style belts. Pants were either kept perfectly lean and cigarette-style or languid and pooling at the ankles. Gowns — yes, gowns — and slipdresses were presented over skinny trousers, adding fuel to the fire that is Spring 2013's dress-over-pants trend. Overall, Haider Ackermann's Spring 2013 collection was a darkly romantic tale of boy-meets-girl styling and East-meets-West sensibilities.

• Trends: Polka dots, origami, bed jackets, layering.
• Colors: Black, bronze, white, brown, navy, plum.
• Key Piece: The open polka-dot blouse with tweed pants and printed silk robe.
• Accessories: Leather cage wedges, wide waist belts, slim Y-necklaces.
• Who Should Wear It: Penelope Cruz, Victoria Beckham, and Haider Ackermann devotee Tilda Swinton.

Check out all the pictures from Sonia Rykiel's Spring 2013 collection and come back soon for our full review.

Photos courtesy of Sonia Rykiel.