>> While Calvin Klein is sticking to Eva Mendes for their Fall 2009 Underwear ads — and giving her the Calvin Klein Jeans campaign as well — they're switching it up for the rest of the cadre. Jourdan Dunn and Sigrid Agren paired up for the CK Calvin Klein set by Craig McDean, who also photographed the Calvin Klein campaign with Jamie Dornan and Edita Vilkeviciute. And the Calvin Klein Collection set was done by David Sims with brand exclusive Monica "Jac" Jagaciak, who opened and closed the brand's Fall 2009 show. Get used to these images — they're appearing on 1,080 pages globally.
>> IN THE LOOKING GLASS —The upcoming June 2009 issue of W features a 30-page editorial: a portfolio of the season's best new faces, as chosen by Craig McDean, with Karlie Kloss and Sigrid Agren heavy on rotation; appropriately, Sigrid is said to have her first major cover out this week. Four girls are rumored not to have made the final cut, but Ranya Mordanova, Rose Cordero, Madisyn Ritland, Bara Holotova, Jourdan Dunn, Viktoriya Sasonkina, Karlie Kloss, Amanda Laine, Imogen Morris-Clarke, Dorothea Barth Jorgensen, and Nimue Smit all did — Models.com has a trio of previews. [Models.com, Models.com, Models.com, NY Model Management]
>> The things we learn when Karl Lagerfeld gives interviews — like he tends to hit his hand on a table for emphasis and the impetus for wearing his hair in a ponytail. During a Paris Fashion Week fitting this past March, he submitted to questions from Sigrid Agren — who apparently already has at least three major Fall 2009 campaigns in the bag — for Interview. The highlights:
Agren: Okay. How do you look when you wake up?
Lagerfeld: That’s why I sleep alone. My hair is curly, and that’s why I have my ponytail. I look like a madman, like something out of a horror movie! But I'm very impeccable and clean before I go to bed. It’s just like right before I’m going out. When I was a child, my mother always told me that you could wake up in the middle of the night and be deathly sick, so you always have to be impeccable. I laugh about it now, but I think everyone should go to bed like they have a date at the door.
>> No one fainted this time around at Alexander McQueen, but the show could win this season's Prada award for torturous shoes — even over Nina Ricci. Numerous inches were added to the festishistic heels, and the girls took every step with care — some even broke their runway stare to glance down momentarily, and Sigrid Agren looked around like she's frightened of the next step. Karlie Kloss, below, had to stop and fix her dress to keep from tripping over it. Suzy Menkes was discomfited by the display: "the models were tortured into dresses that hobbled their feet, making each runway step treacherous and giving a discomforting misogynist feel to the show."
Meanwhile, this morning at Hermes, another painful scene: supermodel Tatjana Patitz seemed to be out of practice on the runway. She almost tripped and fell three times, including when she closed the show. When Jean Paul Gaultier came out for his bow, he gave her a hug, and apparently she looked like she was about to cry.
>> Rag & Bone always attracts the legions — last season there was enough trouble filing in when the show space was the vast Pier 94; this season, the crowd had to push and shove their way through the two small double doors of Cedar Lake Ballet Theater, and a number of people who were supposed to have seats were forced to stand. While the rest of us were bumped and budged, immobile, Julia Restoin Roitfeld knew how to conquer the immovable best — just after she waved hello to Genevieve Jones, a tall, modelesque man parted the crowd with an "Excuse me, I'm late for the show." Presumably, everyone assumed he was a model trying to get backstage fifteen minutes after the show was scheduled to start. Julia saw him and latched onto his elbow with a "Hey, Zack, I'm going to use you as an excuse to get through." And with that, she was in — the rest of us still in the same place. Turns out, the guy wasn't even in the show.
But Edita Vilkeviciute was, and Isabeli Fontana — who closed — Diana Farkhullina and Sigrid Agren — all new faces, in addition to Rag & Bone perennial favorites like Coco Rocha, Lily Donaldson, Sasha Pivovarova, Jessica Stam, and Julia Stegner. The label's usual palette of navy, black, and gray was in place, with some unexpected pops of red in a flower brooch here, in an obi belt there. Marcus Wainwright and David Neville worked with a different stylist this season — Tabitha Simmons — and she helped them take it to a new level — the chain mail detailing on a hem or peeking out under a jacket was an especially unique touch.
>> Natalia Vodianova has been chatting up her collaboration with Etam for a while — and last night, the French lingerie company shelled out for their newly-signed three year ambassador, staging a full-blown show at the Ritz in Paris that drew the likes of Eva Herzigova, Emmanuelle Alt, and Charlotte Casiraghi in the front row and Edita Vilkeviciute, Sigrid Agren, Flavia Oliveira, and Sessilee Lopez on the runway. Natalia pour Etam, which encompasses swimwear and lingerie, including a silk nightgown inspired by one in Natalia's own wardrobe, runs $20-$80 and hits stores in April. The line will be reoccurring, with Natalia designing a new collection every season over the period of her ambassadorship.
*image: source, source
>> For Fall 2008, three of the big campaigns that every model wants to catch — Prada, Balenciaga, and Miu Miu — all went with one big name — Linda Evangelista, Charlotte Gainsbourg, and Vanessa Paradis, respectively.
Come Spring 2009, all three labels have decided to switch things up by using a large number of new faces — Prada is using eight models (Anna Jagodzinska, Giedre Dukauskaite, Katrin Thormann, Nimue Smit, Sigrid Agren, Toni Garrn, Viktoriya Sasonkina, Ymre Stiekema); Miu Miu is using eight models as "accessories" to campaign star Katie Holmes (Darya Kurovska, Elena Lomkova, Imogen Morris-Clarke, Katie Fogarty, Myf Shepherd, Sophie Srej, Tilda Lindstam, Yulia Leontieva); and Balenciaga is going with ten models (Amanda Laine, Anabela Belikova, Anna Jagodzinska, Anya Kazakova, Diana Farkhullina, Elsa Sylvan, Hanne-Gaby Odiele, Iris Strubegger, Katie Fogarty, Kinga Rajzak).
Surprisingly, there are only two girls overlapping between the campaigns: Anna Jagodzinska in Balenciaga and Prada and Katie Fogarty in Miu Miu and Balenciaga, and especially in Miu Miu's cast, some girls — Tilda Lindstam, Yulia Leontieva — are very new faces. Although some are skeptical, especially in the case of Miu Miu, that all the models cast will make it into the final shots, it's notable that all three labels, which usually go with one face, have all decided that power comes in numbers this season. Get to know the chosen faces in the gallery below.
*image: source, source, source
>> A LITTLE TURN ON THE CATWALK —By now, it's well established that the Spring 2009 Prada shoes created runway carnage yesterday — Yulia Kharlapanova flat-out fell, Jessica Stam stumbled, Katie Fogarty fell and then carried her shoes for the rest of the runway, one model — who looks to be Sigrid Agren — started out in the finale, then turned and went backstage — defeated. It's all being blamed on the slippery socks the girls had to wear with their shoes, but at least the models weren't the only ones in pain at Prada — apparently the audience had to sit on wooden blocks, providing some awkward undergarment-baring situations. [The Cut, Chic Report]
>> THE MODELIZER —Is Ymre Stiekema the new Sasha Pivovarova over at Prada? The 16-year-old Dutch model was chosen to be the face of Prada's Fall 2008 Linea Rossa campaign, and this evening in Milan, she scored an ace in the hole: the coveted Prada Spring 2009 runway exclusive. Ymre opened the show, while Sigrid Agren closed. [Models.com Daily Feed]
>> Tommaso Aquilano and Roberto Rimondi had a tall order to fill for Spring 2009. Before Gianfranco Ferre passed in 2007, his architectural-based label had ceased to become relevent — as Cathy Horyn put it, "It’s been a while since anyone [has] paid serious attention to the Ferre name." So could the newly tapped designers bring it back to the forefront?
The general consensus says yes. Nicole Phelps of Style.com was pleased: "They deserve high marks for this outing." Cathy Horyn of The New York Times, a Aquilano-Rimondi fan, loved the effort, with one caveat: "The designers distilled the essence of Ferre in a new, eye-catching way. Now to just refine the elements a bit more . . . " WWD felt the same: "Aquilano and Rimondi have the right ideas, but what they need now is a little restraint."
Suzy Menkes of the International Herald Tribune also echoed the same sentiment: "Not all the Ferré collection was approachable. Yet . . . the two designers created the clothes and the buzz that will bring fashion life back to Ferré." With another season under their belts, Aquilano and Rimondi could definitely hit the right stride at Ferre.