Style Glossary

Style Glossary

Tailoring Talk: The 11 Most-Used Terms to Add to Your Fashion Vocab

It's safe to say most occupations employ a vernacular all their own — fashion speak, legalese, and medical jargon immediately come to mind — so it goes without saying that heading to the tailor requires a certain level of terminology know-how too.

It's safe to say most occupations employ a vernacular all their own — fashion speak, legalese, and medical jargon immediately come to mind — so it goes without saying that heading to the tailor requires a certain level of terminology know-how too. That is, unless you want your pant leg to be darted instead of hemmed. No need to be embarrassed about your current tailor-talk knowledge: this is a glossary safe zone. Is there a difference between bespoke and custom pieces? What is a vent? No, it's not an air filter we're referring to. When do you "take something in" as opposed to requesting darts — or do you do both? Is a cutter something scary? Read on for tailoring-term enlightenment and insurance against any further miscommunications.

  • Baste — Basting is kind of like the bread and butter of tailoring and altering a piece of clothing. It describes the action of sewing long, easily removable stitches that are used to mock up a fitting, hold into a zipper into place, and keep slippery fabrics from moving. The next time your tailor is stitching you into something, chances are they're basting.
  • Bespoke — A bespoke piece of clothing refers to a garment made from scratch to fit a customer's specific measurements and requirements. Its origin dates back to the days of London's Savile Row, when a customer ordering a garment would select and reserve a cloth or fabric, which automatically made it "bespoken" or "spoken for." Thus, there's no difference between bespoke and custom wares, as both speak to a totally personalized experience. More often, people get confused between bespoke and made-to-measure goods. Made-to-measure pieces are tailored from a standard-sized pattern mold; while the end result can be tailored to fit your body, the initial piece of fabric was not made especially for you.
  • Cutter — Contrary to the sound of it, a cutter is the person who measures and fits the customer. From there, he or she makes a pattern from the measurements and observations of the customer's figure and posture. We'd say that's a pretty big job.

More tailor talk after the break.

Editor's Pick

Our Ultimate Style Glossary — Your Chicest FAQs Answered Right Here!

For all those fumbling moments where you doubted your pronunciation of haute couture, second-guessed the difference between a button-up and a button-down, and wondered where exactly the houndstooth print got its name, rest assured — your style-stumped days are over.

For all those fumbling moments where you doubted your pronunciation of haute couture, second-guessed the difference between a button-up and a button-down, and wondered where exactly the houndstooth print got its name, rest assured — your style-stumped days are over. We've culled our readers' most frequently asked style quandaries and played fashion detective in order to get to the bottom of this chic set of mysteries. From more logistical terms (like, what is a bias cut?) to sillier subjects (like, how the term sneakers was coined?), we're knee-deep in what's what in the style realm. Click through for answers to your most stylish FAQs — and if you've got another, ask away in the comments!

Photo courtesy of Phil Oh

Shopping

Style Glossary: Bias Cut

Bias Cut A garment is said to be cut on the bias when the fabric's warp and weft threads are at 45 degrees to its major seam lines; essentially, the diagonal cut of a fabric.
Lucky Brand at ShopStyle

Bias Cut

A garment is said to be cut on the bias when the fabric's warp and weft threads are at 45 degrees to its major seam lines; essentially, the diagonal cut of a fabric. This technique utilizes a greater stretch in the bias, thereby causing it to accentuate body lines and curves and drape softly. Non-woven fabrics such as felt do not have a bias. Bias-cut garments were made popular by French designer Madeleine Vionnet in the '20s and '30s.

To see some cute bias-cut items, read more

Models

Style Glossary: Shrug

Shrug A cropped, cardigan-like garment with short or long sleeves, typically knitted.

Shrug

A cropped, cardigan-like garment with short or long sleeves, typically knitted. It usually covers less of the body than a vest would, but it is more tailored than a shawl. Some shrugs are tied together just below the bustline, while some are cut off at the sides, making them nothing more than a pair of sleeves joined at the back. More recently, shrugs have taken a new direction, coming in all sorts of prints, drapes, and fabrics. They're the perfect Summer cover-up (and oh-so Buffy Summers).


To see some more stylish shrugs, read more

Shopping

Style Glossary: Crêpe de Chine

Crêpe de Chine Literally means "crepe of China" in French.
Mike & Chris at ShopStyle

Crêpe de Chine

Literally means "crepe of China" in French. A soft, lightweight, plainwoven fabric with a crinkled effect. It's produced either with all-silk warp and weft or with a silk warp and hard-spun worsted weft. Crêpe de chine textures of artificial silk are common these days and are often difficult to distinguish from true silk. French designer Madeleine Vionnet used crêpe de chine, a fabric that was unusual in women's fashion of the '20s and '30s.

This Mike & Chris Vinny Tank ($202) is made of 100 percent crêpe de chine silk. Doesn't it look super soft?


To see more pieces of crêpe de chine, read more

Coats

Style Glossary: Mackintosh

Mackintosh Not to be confused with a Macintosh computer, a Mackintosh is a form of waterproof raincoat, first sold in 1824, made out of rubberized fabric.

Mackintosh

Not to be confused with a Macintosh computer, a Mackintosh is a form of waterproof raincoat, first sold in 1824, made out of rubberized fabric. It is named after its Scottish inventor Charles Macintosh, though a letter k is commonly added. In the present day, the Mackintosh style of coat has become generic, but a genuine Mackintosh coat should be made from rubberized or rubber laminated material.

Intrigued? See more original Mackintosh raincoats.


Shopping

Style Glossary: Ripstop

Ripstop Woven fabrics, often made out of nylon, that use a special reinforcing technique that make them very resistant against tearing and ripping.
Free People at ShopStyle

Ripstop

Woven fabrics, often made out of nylon, that use a special reinforcing technique that make them very resistant against tearing and ripping. During weaving, reinforcement threads are interwoven at regular intervals in a crosshatch pattern in the fabric. The main advantage of ripstop fabrics is that smaller tears and rips can't easily spread further in the fabric.

These Free People Ripstop Shorts ($98) are made using the ripstop technique and thus are highly durable.


Shopping

Style Glossary: Liberty Print

Liberty A feminine print of small garden-party florals.

Liberty

A feminine print of small garden-party florals. First popularized by London's Liberty & Co. department store. Often gives off a sweet, country vibe. Can be found on dresses, skirts, scarves, and even lingerie. The print is so popular, it made its way onto Nike sneakers. The Spring catwalks — specifically Marc by Marc Jacobs (left) and Cacharel — were filled with liberty prints.


To see cute liberty print pieces, read more

Style Glossary

Style Glossary: Filigree

Filigree Sometimes spelled filagree. A fine thread of metal, usually gold or silver, applied to jewelry for ornamental, openwork designs.
Janna Conner at ShopStyle

Filigree

Sometimes spelled filagree. A fine thread of metal, usually gold or silver, applied to jewelry for ornamental, openwork designs. Can be found mainly on brooches, crosses, earrings, and bracelets. Modern filigree is generally surrounded by bands of square or flat metal so that it can keep its proper shape.

These Janna Conner Beni Earrings ($53) are a sweet way to sport filigree.


To see more examples of filigree jewelry, read more