All the world's a stage for Dolce & Gabbana and its models are decked out in some seriously stylin' clothes. Vlada Roslyakova, Olga Sherer, Zuzana Gregorova, Regina Feoktistova, and Kamila Filipcikova do a stellar job showing off the designers' latest ready-to-wear. One part of the collection is spunky — bright frocks, floral headpieces, leopard prints, skin-tight silhouettes, sheer lace, sparkles — while the other is all about subdued hues, cozy knits, and demure cuts. One thing they have in common: They all feature heavy, dramatic maroon curtains in the back. Can you dig it?
>> So far this season, the most eye-catching show package came courtesy of One Management, who had their stable of models mimic an iconic '60s Harper's Bazaar cover by Richard Avedon, but a couple of Paris agencies are running a close second, and curiously, they are both feeling the comic book look. Women Paris altered portfolio pictures of the likes of Iris Strubegger and Iselin Steiro into with a little high contrast look and a splat of yellow, and WM emulated Sin City for their gaggle of fresh faces.
Christian Lacroix May Have Just Shown His Last Couture Show for Fall 2009; Will He Go Back Into LVMH Fold?
>> Last Friday, employees at Christian Lacroix were informed the the workforce would be cut from 124 to 12, and the house would close at the end of July — effectively reducing it to a licensing operation — unless a buyer could be found. Today at the Arts Decoratifs, Lacroix showed what may be his last couture collection to just over 200 guests, a set of 24 looks entirely privately financed, which the designer described as: "A collection which is finished, but which was not completed under the usual conditions. It is like a sketch, a drawing for a painting . . . the classic repertory of the house, what is left, the hard disk."
The mood was sober, but staid: badges declaring "Christian Lacroix Forever" were handed out and a sign reading similar was held across the runway. There were tears aplenty as the designer took his walk with bride Vlada Roslyakova, and no red carnations were on the seats, ready to toss in the finale as has been the custom at Lacroix's couture shows since he started in 1987. But he did receive a standing ovation, and Lacroix is not ready to give up: "What really churns my stomach is wondering what is going to become of the workrooms and, for the moment, none of the solutions I am looking at would save the couture side of the business."
Some are wondering if he may renew his relationship with LVMH — under whom he originally launched his label in 1987. Just an hour after his own show closed, he was spotted backstage and front row at the LVMH-supported Givenchy show, where he posed for photos with Delphine Arnault. The Times UK noted that Lacroix, "beaming in the front row at Givenchy doesn't look like a man whose label is finished."
>> THE MODELIZER — You know Fashion Week season is here when a number of models all change their hair simultaneously: Coco Rocha did an early swap to red a couple of months ago, and Monday night, Vlada Rosylakova took her strawberry blonde redder to a similarly vivid color. Also parading a new look: Iekeliene Stange, who ditched brown for blonde, and Iris Strubegger, who debuted her cropped cut — supposedly done for a Vogue Paris cover — during the Givenchy couture show late last month. [COACD, Place Models, Women Management]
>> After seasons of blonde after blonde model, change appears to be afoot. Don't worry, there are still seas of blondes out there, but for some key players, red seems to be the new shade of choice. Coco Rocha — who created a stir by wearing a wig to an event last week — debuted her new flame-haired shade last night, a change which she apparently made for a January 2009 Vogue editorial. Vlada Roslyakova also warmed up her tint recently — originally done for an upcoming Christian Lacroix fragrance campaign, she made the change back to blonde. That is, until the team re-dyed her hair strawberry blonde to film the accompanying television commercial, and she decided to keep it. And let's not forget Lily Cole, who has not made any changes to her red head, but is about to be launched in a series of TV and print ads by Rimmel, who formerly relied solely on the blonde Kate Moss.
>> ON THE CAMPAIGN TRAIL —Vlada Rosylakova holds the title of Fall 2008 and now Resort 2009 face of DKNY, but is that the end of her run? Rumors are circling that the job, which before Vlada went to Kate Moss, has been placed in the hands of Elite+-signed, New York it-girl Harley Viera-Newton for Spring 2009. [Paper, Nylon]
>> Tommaso Aquilano and Roberto Rimondi had a tall order to fill for Spring 2009. Before Gianfranco Ferre passed in 2007, his architectural-based label had ceased to become relevent — as Cathy Horyn put it, "It’s been a while since anyone [has] paid serious attention to the Ferre name." So could the newly tapped designers bring it back to the forefront?
The general consensus says yes. Nicole Phelps of Style.com was pleased: "They deserve high marks for this outing." Cathy Horyn of The New York Times, a Aquilano-Rimondi fan, loved the effort, with one caveat: "The designers distilled the essence of Ferre in a new, eye-catching way. Now to just refine the elements a bit more . . . " WWD felt the same: "Aquilano and Rimondi have the right ideas, but what they need now is a little restraint."
Suzy Menkes of the International Herald Tribune also echoed the same sentiment: "Not all the Ferré collection was approachable. Yet . . . the two designers created the clothes and the buzz that will bring fashion life back to Ferré." With another season under their belts, Aquilano and Rimondi could definitely hit the right stride at Ferre.
>> When Natalie Portman comes to the show, Keira Knightley hits up the after party, and Anna Wintour brings Bee — who usually only goes to Marc Jacobs and Proenza Schouler — along, you know Rodarte is really starting to make it big. Even Vogue Italia's editor-in-chief, Franca Sozzani, had a little trouble getting in — apparently, she tried to follow Anna and Bee through the velvet rope, but the PR staff wouldn't allow it.
Onto the clothes: They followed the same thought process as the Fall 2008 collection, but with a few key changes — the colors, the shoes (those treacherous shoes, made by Nicholas Kirkwood instead of Christian Louboutin this season), and the leggings, which were leather instead of knit, and although they looked laser cut, were entirely handmade. Some think the look veered into Balenciaga territory, but me? I'm just enjoying the view.
>> Alice Dellal may have been a special guest at Alexander Wang, but she was there in spirit at Proenza Schouler — the sideswept wavy hair, red lip, leathers, zippers, and crop tops shown were all reminiscent of her look. She may have been a starting point, but the collection had a downtown refinement that you would never seen in Alice — she revels too much in the grunge. All I have to say is: So many fun, billowy jumpsuits, so little time. And don't forget to check out the accessories — they're part of Jack and Lazaro's first full season effort.