Yohji Yamamoto

It has been a hustling and bustling few weeks for the fashion flock as they make their biannual global Hajj to circle the style capitals of the world and much of that frenetic pace has been exacerbated by the heightened sense of drama with retirements, replacements, and anniversaries, thus it was something of a relief to finally have serenity at Yohji Yamamoto.

It was quiet, calm, reverential clothing that will allow true lovers of Yamamoto's keen sense of clean design to pray at the alter of Spring 2009.  Wonderful tailoring with hints of his classic asymmetry, it was a collection of middle proportions and balanced clothing options with both separates and dresses on offer. And for those that following merchandising and licencing deal each look had a brand new pair of sunglasses. If this is what it takes to pay the bills for a collection so collected we promise to pick up two pairs.

These shades will blow those coveted Grey Ant pairs out of the water. The Yohji Yamamoto for Linda Farrow Sunglasses unisex collection, named Prototype, will launch in conjunction with Spring 09 deliveries and include four original styles made from titanium, aluminum, silver, and antiqued gold. You can pick them up at Yohji and Farrow shops. No word yet on the numbers in production, or the cost, but we're guessing they'll conjure a pretty penny from many a chicster.

In other collabo news, Raf Simons will be designing limited edition Doc Martins come Spring 09. Our Network Partner, Chic & Untroubled, reported on the collaboration as it was revealed during the Milan trade show Bread & Butter. If that (for lack of a better word) chunky sole never bothered you, this might be a very exciting day indeed. We're not particularly stoked to see the naked foot of a (admittedly fashion-forward) man peeking out from a cut-out Doc Martin, but alas, it's Raf Simons.

»Thierry Mugler is being resurrected for couture week [FabSugar]

»Newly-minted Vogue intern Sean Avery is rumored to be starting a fashion company . . . already [FWD]

»Peter Som reveals all about what the CFDA does (ok, not really, but he is facetious about it) [The Cut]

»Vintage Oscar de la Renta pictures, right this way [Oscar de la Renta]

»The chicken at Jean Paul Gaultier's perfume launch last night was dressed in his trademark sailor stripes [Cafe Mode]

»Vivienne Westwood guest edited the July 2008 issue of Dazed & Confused [Nicola Formichetti]

»Yohji Yamamoto's daughter Limi was "uncontrollable" growing up [Prestige HK]

»Donna Karan is obsessed with Madonna [Prestige HK]

»Peeks at the Erin Fetherston, Celine, Anna Sui, Thakoon, and Costume National Resort 2009 collections [WWD, Style.com, Style.com, WWD, Style.com]

Today's article in WWD, on the strength of the flagship in spite of the recession, sparked our interest in writing about the newest Yohji Yamamoto outpost. Last week we walked by the space in the Meatpacking District, and admired its simple facade and modern interior. Though this flagship doesn't occupy multiple floors and boast the kind of bells and whistles that are characteristic of other fashion houses, it was designed with the same thought in mind: that the flagship is one of the most important dialogues between a brand and its customer.

For his second Manhattan outpost Yohji Yamamoto hired architect Junya Ishigami to design a pointed, low-slung boutique with equal parts utility and attraction. At night the wedge-shaped structure, made of large windowpanes and original brick walls, glows from the warm lighting and stark white furniture inside. The structure, divided into two triangular spaces, allows for one part retail and one part storage. In between them a small open-air garden functions as a clothing-free party space and otherwise convenient passageway between private and public quarters. Occupying only 1,300 square feet this sleek outpost was never meant to accommodate the entire Yamamoto range, only select garments and accessories are offered for sale. More than anything, the Gansevoort Street boutique means to embody and encourage the Yamamoto aesthetic, where minimalism is not without its own brand of warmth and detail.


Click to see images from the Yohji Yamamoto Fall 08 collection