>> Unsurprisingly, Designer Emanuel Ungaro Unhappy with Current State of His Namesake Label — On Monday night, Emanuel Ungaro, who hasn't had any contact with his eponymous label since he left in 2005, told French press: "Lindsay Lohan's collaboration was a disaster. I am furious but I can't do anything about it." He also regrets that the fashion house he started "is in the process of losing its soul. That happens to a lot of designers. We were the creators and patrons, responsible for the creation and destiny of our houses. But when we gave up our houses, we gave up our souls." [Independent UK]
Burberry's Christopher Bailey receives a well-deserved promotion.
Ron Herman edits the current J.Crew line-up for a shop-in-shop in his Fred Segal boutiques in Los Angeles.
A rundown of the best designer blogs.
Jean Paul Gaultier is happy to report his collection for Target will shock parents and teachers.
"Being at Yves Saint Laurent was such a negative experience for me even though the business boomed while I was there. I’ve never talked about this on the record before, but it was an awful time for me. Pierre and Yves were just evil. So Yves Saint Laurent doesn’t exist for me."—Tom Ford on his years in Paris to Advocate magazine.
Lars Nilsson will launch a signature men's wear collection next January at Pitti Imagine Uomo in Italy.
>> Ungaro to Reinstate Couture? —Lindsay Lohan gave an interview last week about her experience with Ungaro, in which she said she was "learning" and headed back to Paris to work on the next collection: “It’s already in January. I thought it was in March." The last comment left some wondering if it meant Ungaro's couture division, which was shuttered in 2004, might be reinstated — since Spring 2010 couture is shown in January — but Lohan was likely just referring to Ungaro's Pre-Fall 2010 collection — the brand's Pre-Fall 2009 collection was shown this past January. [People, Jezebel]
From the runways onto department and drugstore shelves, I'm sure we'll see lots of fresh new makeup options and application techniques go full circle come March. Last month in New York, we saw six very wearable trends emerge, from peach lips to bold eyeliner to heavy-handed under-the-eye liners. But throughout the course of New York Fashion Week and other Spring 2010 shows, including Paris, London, and Milan, there were other looks that won't quite make the transition. Take this sequin forehead heart-shaped applique, for instance — straight from the Ungaro show in Paris, for which Lindsay Lohan acted as artistic adviser. While I appreciate each and every designer's artistic flair, some looks just won't translate to real life. See what I mean now.
Lindsay Lohan and Estrella Archs's First Emanuel Ungaro Collection for Spring 2010: The Reviews Are In (And Not Pretty)
>> Three weeks after they were tasked with designing the Spring 2010 Emanuel Ungaro collection, Estrella Archs and artistic advisor Lindsay Lohan took their runway bow — the former dragging the teary latter by the hand — yesterday to a beefed-up photographer's pit and an audience, many of whom just came because of the expected spectacle.
The result wasn't pretty: the collection's super-short minidresses and heart-shaped pasties peeking out of blazers and on the models' foreheads were ruled "a bad joke of a fashion show" by Style.com. Lohan's involvement was compared to "a McDonald’s fry cook taking the reins of a three-star Michelin restaurant" by the New York Times's Eric Wilson. Fabien Baron's take? "Call the fashion police!” And Harper's Bazaar's Glenda Bailey wouldn't even comment: “You know, if you don’t mind, I have to run out the door.” Even Dree Hemingway weighed in: "the first half might as well be alex wang last spring and i did see [Lohan] sporting that hot pink blazer of his..."
Lohan, who is reportedly being paid millions by Ungaro, called the show "the hardest thing I've ever done." Beforehand, she selected $150,000 worth of Ungaro clothes at the Paris flagship with CEO Mounir Moufarrige's blessing, supposedly cancelling an interview with Suzy Menkes. Some expect her to be gone before next season — even though she already said she was sketching for the next collection — but her contract is multiyear, and Moufarrige said his main goal in hiring her was to generate publicity, noting that he was suprised criticism hasn't been more negative. And even after the wave of bad reviews came out yeseterday, Ungaro's owner Asim Abdullah was defiant that either Lohan reignites the long-struggling Ungaro, or “we go down in a blaze of glory. Or unglory."
Lindsay Lohan debuted her first advised collection for Emanuel Ungaro over the weekend. It's not half bad, though I still yearn for Esteban Cortezar's vivid prints and sassy draping. What I can see as a Lohan touch is this bedazzled heart pastie one of the models wore. It's done in an admittedly demure fashion, a little less blatant than Rihanna's Fourth of July star pastie. It helps that the white embroidered jacket is pretty gorgeous. But is it still totally tacky?
>> Lindsay Lohan Still In Place at Ungaro, Invites Miley Cyrus to Attend Show Sunday —Lindsay Lohan debuts the first collection she designed with Estrella Archs for Emanuel Ungaro on Sunday during Paris Fashion Week, and despite rumors that she might already be on the outs, she is indeed in Paris and just saw her office earlier today: "It's so pretty! I was shocked&so happy I cried!!! A dream come true!" The show's front row could turn out to be like Marc Jacobs's of yore: she's been busy at work inviting Miley Cyrus and Sarah Silverman to attend. [Lindsay Lohan Twitter, Lindsay Lohan Twitter, Lindsay Lohan Twitter]
Update: Lohan may be getting her boldface friends to attend the show, but apparently a number of buyers have declined their invitations to Ungaro due to her participation. [StyleWriterNYC Twitter]
>> Lindsay Lohan Already On the Outs at Ungaro? —Ungaro CEO Mounir Moufarrige seemed ready for all the diva moves new brand artistic director Lindsay Lohan might pull, but not even a week since her appointment was announced, she's already skipped a scheduled call with the Wall Street Journal and refused to pose for pictures at Ungaro's Fashion's Night Out event — and those are just the documented offenses. The latter move, however, has prompted a rumor that she might be fired . . . [The Cut Twitter]
Ungaro Taps Lindsay Lohan, Unknown Designer Estrella Archs to Collaborate, Create Some Noise for the Brand
>> Mounir Moufarrige, who famously replaced Karl Lagerfeld with 25-year-old Stella McCartney at Chloe in 1997, is at it again: He's signed an almost-unknown chief designer, Estrella Archs (left), and Lindsay Lohan as an "artistic adviser" to replace Esteban Cortazar at Emanuel Ungaro, in hopes that they will bring attention — good, bad, or otherwise — back to the brand. Their first collection — for Spring 2010 — is expected to be shown on the runway in Paris, and Archs and Lohan will likely come out together for the bow at the end.
Ungaro CEO Moufarrige decided to forego a proven, well-known designer, he told WWD, because the days of "designers in their ivory towers" are over. He thinks that Lohan will lend a vital "consumer" voice: "Designer-led fashion is likely not to be enough [for Ungaro]. It’s a slow process going the traditional route [because designers need a couple of years to get into the house's skin]. Not enough just doesn’t get you anywhere.” And he maintains that "it's not an act of desperation to get a real diva [like Lohan] involved. I like controversy."