Ennio Capasa's Fall 2013 collection for Costume National brought a renewed focus to streamlined, minimal, and ultimately essential clothing. Rendered primarily in a palette of black, navy, and white with a few pieces in a navy-and-burgundy striped jacquard, these clothes did away with the artful decorations Capasa applied last season (and the avant-garde attitude he applied in previous outings) and focused on cut and tailoring. The show opened with a few riffs on the tuxedo, followed by a cape piped with satin. A fur vest provided warmth over a shirt with sheer sleeves, and the one all-red look on the runway stood out from the dark looks.
Ennio Capasa took minimalism in an interesting direction with his Spring 2013 collection for Costume National. Or rather, he minimized the house's traditionally avant-garde garments by cutting them in half and combining them with other pieces. There was a half tuxedo jacket affixed to a strapless top and a half skirt cleverly sewn to one full-length pant leg. But the combinations went vertical as well as horizontal: on more than one shirt, suit lapels found themselves turned into straps. Many of the looks were cut from black, navy blue, and white fabrics, plus a few in a combination of red and a specific shade of fuchsia created through an obscure chemical process. For decoration, Capasa took images of a bird's wing and an aloe plant from Maurizio Cattelan and Pierpaolo Ferrari's photo journal Toilet Paper and applied them to a few dresses and tops.
"Minimal military chic" was the name of the game for Ennio Capasa earlier today at C'N'C Costume National. To that end, the designer offered up plenty of re-imagined utility gear in slouchy silhouettes and a palette of army green, black, and oyster. Epaulets, cargo pockets, and asymmetry — in the form of surplice wraps and draped panels — each featured heavily, as did sheer and shiny fabrics in the form of charmeuse, chiffon, and leather. It was a formula that, for the most part, worked well — especially in the form of a chiffon t-shirt with leather sleeves and a relaxed jumpsuit made up of a sheer bodice and pants with leather pockets at the knee.
>> Ennio Capasa's Fall 2012 collection for Costume National — titled "New Wave - No Wave - Dark Wave" — was a study in asymmetry and layered angularity. Classic tailored pieces, such as tuxedo blazers or menswear-style trousers, were re-imagined and deconstructed, resulting in a tough-looking assortment of cutaway panels and off-kilter tiers. "My women have a metropolitan and post-punk attitude, they combine androgynous and feminine silhouettes," the show notes explained.
Milan Fashion Week C'N'C Costume National Spring 2009 Photos by Vittorio Zunino Celotto
Like the latest Calvin Klein Jeans ads, C'N'C Costume National's Fall 2008 campaign features non-celebrities. Only, you probably won't recognize these models because they were recruited from MySpace. Designer Ennio Capasa picked 12 models for their individuality and diversity.
"Social networking is one of the most interesting phenomena today on the Internet," Capasa said. "It represents the great change and dynamism of a society that is increasingly a compulsive consumer of communication and contacts. What do you think? Are these ads appealing?
A full gallery of the event below, including plenty of faces that are used to being in front of the camera: Anna Wintour, Naomi Campbell, Franca Sozzani . . .
*image: source, source