isabel toledo

>> The meteoric rise of Jason Wu — he has tripled his sales appointments for his sold out, yet-to-be-unveiled Fall 2009 collection — shows what an influence Michelle Obama can have on a designer.  But Wu doesn't just have Obama to thank — he never actually interacted with the First Lady, but rather with Ikram Goldman, owner of Chicago boutique Ikram, and Obama's gatekeeper to the fashion industry.

In fact, none of the designers who have made clothes for the First Lady have had any direct contact with their White House client — all commissions, measurements, bills, and other directions have been mediated by Ikram, causing something of a controversy; the clothes that Obama has worn recently are predominantly from designers that Cathy Horyn points out, "Ikram sells and ultimately stands to benefit from" — Jason Wu, Isabel Toledo, Narciso Rodriguez, Proenza Schouler, Thakoon, and Mario Cornejo.

Is Obama limiting herself? »

>> Isabel Toledo may have shelled out for that lemongrass fabric she used to make Michelle Obama's inaugural day dress — it rings in at $500 a yard — but it's Jason Wu who will be reaping the Fashion Week benefits of an Obama nod.

In fact, Wu's show "might be the hottest ticket in town" — right after Marc Jacobs — according to The New York Observer.  Elle is sending seven more staffers than it did to Wu's Spring 2009 show — including editor-in-chief Robbie Myers, creative director Joe Zee, and style director Kate Lanphear.  Bergdorf Goodman is bringing its entire buying team, in addition to fashion director Linda Fargo and senior women's fashion director Roopal Patel, who attended last season.  Anna Wintour is sure to attend again, especially since she was already front row for the Spring 2009 show.

"I feel extreme pressure . . . »

>> First Lady Michelle Obama — soon to be Vogue cover girl, most likely shot by Annie Leibovitz — has been in position for a day and already made a couple of careers: those of Isabel Toledo and Jason Wu, who are now household names.

Both designers' looks were special-ordered through Chicago boutique owner Ikram Goldman, who is expected the advise the First Lady over the next four years — she also helped with Obama's choice of Jimmy Choo shoes and Loree Rodkin jewelry — and neither Wu nor Toledo were told their designs were for the inauguration.  The two designers were on The Today Show this morning, talking color choice, fabric choice, and how they were "awestruck," in the words of Jason.  And that's not even to mention how all of this will impact their sales — a Spring version of Toledo's dress will hit Barneys in March, retailing for $1,500.

Video: Jason Wu and Isabel Toledo on Mrs. O »

>> This morning, Isabel Toledo received an unexpected big boost in the national eye — Michelle Obama wore the yellow coat and matching dress Toledo specifically designed for her to the inauguration, paired with green Jimmy Choo Glacier pumps.

Toledo didn't know for sure that Obama would pick her designs — which thirteen people in her studio worked on over the Christmas holidays — until this morning, when she turned on the television.  "We had no idea. We hoped she would wear something because she has bought Isabel's clothes before. We never know what's going to happen," her husband Ruben Toledo said.  "It's just another shock, but a great shock."

The dress and coat are made of Swiss wool lace, backed with netting for warmth and lined in French silk.  As for the choice of color?  "I wanted to pick a very optimistic color, that had sunshine,” Isabel Toledo said. “I wanted her to feel charmed, and in that way would charm everybody."

While she's long been critically well-received, Toledo has long flown under the radar, particularly since she was pulled from her acclaimed run at Anne Klein two years ago.  She said this morning that she didn't even have a PR person to help bring her designs to Mrs. Obama's attention, so perhaps this turn of events will provide the bump she needs.
*image: source

WWD reports that Michelle Obama will wear Isabel Toledo at the presidential inauguration this afternoon...

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