jason wu

It was chinoiserie-chic and brocade abound at Jason Wu's impressive Fall 2012 show. The designer paid homage to his native Taiwan — the show kicked off with the opening of two dramatic red doors and the burst of a gong — breaking down his collection into three distinct themes: Mao military, Qing Dynasty, and the '30s and '40s Hollywood version of China. For his military category, Wu showed a sleek selection of Mao military jackets punctuated with luxe details like fur and quilting. The Qing Dynasty was all about sharp-shouldered sheath dresses, inspired by the traditional Chinese cheongsam dresses. Wu played up the nonauthenticity of Hollywood's depiction of China in the olden days, adding over-the-top embellishments and even quirky tasseled hats to his undeniably gorgeous array of high-slit gowns paired with sexy black and gold studded sandals.

• Trends: Military, ornate Asian embroidery, tassels, brocade.
• Colors: Army green, red, hot pink, black, burgundy.
• Key Piece: Wu's Mao military theme set, particularly the Mao jackets and shirts, showed perfect tailoring and detailed work.
• Accessories: Black and gold studded sandals, wide belts, tassel earrings, quirky tassel hats.
• Who Would Wear It: Dresses will be worn by red-carpet beauties like Blake Lively, while sporty separates will dominate style setters like Amanda Brooks.

>> For Fall 2012, Jason Wu served up his most powerful and elegant assortment yet. The designer found inspiration in China — and specifically his own relationship to it. "I went back to Taiwan, where I was born, a year and a half ago," the designer said. "I realized I was ready to take on one of the biggest subjects I grew up with: how does a Chinese designer do 'China'? I've lived in America, Canada, and Japan, but to come back to this means so much to me."

So, what does China mean to Wu? Though the references the designer chose to focus on — Mao's military, the Qing dynasty, and the 1932 film Shanghai Express — could lend themselves toward cliché, Wu managed to keep his versions modern, fresh, and tight. Silhouettes were sharp without an ounce of frill, while embellishment came in the form of lace appliqué, quilting, piping, fur, and beads. "It's my most luxurious," Wu explained. Luxurious, yes, but also utterly transportive as well.

We're taking a closer look at the standout details of the Pre-Fall 2012 collections. In this batch of fresh arm and statement footwear from Stella McCartney, Phillip Lim, and Jason Wu, we've picked the best of the bunch. Stella McCartney zeroes in on that London sophisticate with downtown cool; Jason Wu delivers a crop of ladylike bags and shoes — all with pretty pops of color and dainty detailing; and Phillip Lim crafts his minimalist cool with a brilliant palette (like the update on the Pashli in a cherry hue!). Inside, we're picking favorites and zeroing in on the pieces we love. Click on for a glimpse of the goodies to come.

>> Jason Wu's signature accessory shapes meet the rich colors of the Maharajah for Pre-Fall 2012. There are Mini Miss Wu bags in punched-up patents, Jourdan chain crossbody bags in cleverly textural colorblock, and perky Karlie clutches with zigzag trim. But our favorites? All the drool-worthy, totally gorgeous shoes. Lattice-strapped sandals, two-tone platforms, lace-up buckle booties, shiny contrast brogues — all totally girlie, without a hint of priss. Click through to see the entire collection — which, incidentally, also marks the first anniversary of Wu's accessories line — here.

Blake Lively was among the starlets who stepped out in NYC last night to celebrate the launch of Jason Wu For Target. She joined the designer on the red carpet, which also hosted Chloë Moretz and Jaime King. French singer Yelle was on hand to entertain the attendees, who snacked on Laduree macarons. Jason later tweeted his appreciation for the turnout. He wrote, "Can I just say having Chloe Moretz and Jaime King at my Jason Wu for Target party meant the world to me."

The bash was Blake's second public appearance of the day after celebrating Gossip Girl's 100th episode in Queens with her small screen costars Ed Westwick and Penn Badgley. Mayor Michael Bloomberg was there to issue a special proclamation in honor of the series, which has brought many jobs to the Big Apple area during its five-year run.