martin margiela

H&M

Every Image From Maison Martin Margiela's H&M Capsule (With Prices!)

It's finally here: Maison Martin Margiela's full collection for H&M has been revealed, and the clothing and accessories are true to the avant-garde fashion house's signature style.
New Margiela For H&M Pieces Revealed | Pictures

It's finally here: Maison Martin Margiela's full collection for H&M has been revealed, and the clothing and accessories are true to the avant-garde fashion house's signature style.

A representative for the house said that the clothing would mostly be reissued pieces from the Margiela archives, and these garments definitely embody the classic oversize silhouettes, deconstructed styling, and incorporation of found objects the house became famous for. But while prices for original Margiela pieces can reach thousands of dollars, prices for this collaboration run from $13 to $399.

Several pieces are fusions of more than one type of garment. One of the women's bottoms melds a skirt with trousers; elsewhere, halves of two different dresses are combined. The house also turned everything from key rings, locks of hair, and faceless watches into inventive accessories.

Photographs of the collection have slowly been released since August — with sneak peeks at the collection's ad campaign and lookbook — building up to its Nov. 15 release date. A look at all the pieces in the collection, plus their prices, here in the gallery.

fashion week

MM6 Maison Martin Margiela Spring 2013

MM6, the secondary line from the genius creative team at Maison Martin Margiela, staged the first of what it promises will be many New York Fashion Week presentations in the seasons to come on Saturday.
MM6 Maison Martin Margiela Spring 2013 | Runway

MM6, the secondary line from the genius creative team at Maison Martin Margiela, staged the first of what it promises will be many New York Fashion Week presentations in the seasons to come on Saturday. With the opening of its first store on Bleeker Street — not to mention its mother house's much-anticipated collaboration with H&M — the timing couldn't be better for the brand to make a statement.

The message for Spring 2013 puts comfort first. Even references to military dressing — seen best in a khaki trench coat and sweaters and other toppers with reinforce shoulders — couldn't overwhelm the number of elegantly presented t-shirts and sweats in the collection. A gray three-piece suit made of sweatshirt material best spoke to the casual air of the collection, but the many generous, floor-length skirts and easy dresses in the collection helped make the point too.

martin margiela

Haider Ackermann's Backer Would "Support Him" If He Designed for Another Label

>> Haider Ackermann admitted Sunday that there are houses he'd like to design for — his name, coincidentally, has been thrown into the ring for the Dior job — and the backer for his signature label, Anne Chapelle, confirmed that he's contractually free to work elsewhere: “I would be very proud and would continue to support him and be a mentor in the mind.” But, she notes, when Ackermann was asked to take over at Martin Margiela after the designer left, “I said to Haider: ‘Do you understand the Margiela woman?

>> Haider Ackermann admitted Sunday that there are houses he'd like to design for — his name, coincidentally, has been thrown into the ring for the Dior job — and the backer for his signature label, Anne Chapelle, confirmed that he's contractually free to work elsewhere: “I would be very proud and would continue to support him and be a mentor in the mind.” But, she notes, when Ackermann was asked to take over at Martin Margiela after the designer left, “I said to Haider: ‘Do you understand the Margiela woman? If the answer is positive, I have no objection. But can you cope with a big house? Here it is very protective. If you scream, I am there to support you.'” [WWD, IHT]

Hermes

Christophe Lemaire Won't Be Doing Runway Extravaganzas at Hermes

>> Christophe Lemaire, who shows his first Hermes collection in March, says that instead of channeling former Hermes designer Jean Paul Gaultier's runway extravaganzas, he expects to display his collections in a more intimate setting.

>> Christophe Lemaire, who shows his first Hermes collection in March, says that instead of channeling former Hermes designer Jean Paul Gaultier's runway extravaganzas, he expects to display his collections in a more intimate setting.

The decision reflects his vision for the brand as a whole, he tells WWD: “I think that it’s time to go back to a more honest vision of fashion, and that there is room for a simpler, more pared-down wardrobe that is better suited to everyday life. I have always campaigned to bring quality and, if possible, poetry to everyday life. You don’t change your wardrobe every six months. You build it up over time.”

He added that he is imaging his Hermes to be more in line with Martin Margiela's — who designed for Hermes between 1998 and 2003 — rather than Gaultier's: “I think I will be walking in the footsteps of Margiela more than Gaultier, even if I have a lot of respect for Jean Paul Gaultier and his virtuosity."

Lemaire, who left his position as Lacoste creative director to join Hermes, alluded to tensions with his previous management: “It’s as if the moment had finally arrived for me to show what I’m capable of. For various reasons, I have always lacked either the maturity or the means to develop my own brand, and at Lacoste, I was working under constraints that meant that, even though I think I did a good job, I was never able to unleash my full potential. So I hope to be able to do that at Hermès.” He continued: “I think I succeeded in projecting a certain vision of the brand [at Lacoste]. The problem with a brand is that if the designer has a vision and the management does not have the same vision, or does not understand that vision, then there is obviously a disconnect. So I think that is being addressed, but it was definitely an issue for me.”

helmut lang

>> Is Martin Margiela Going the Helmut Lang Route?

>> Is Martin Margiela Going the Helmut Lang Route? —When Helmut Lang left his eponymous label in 2005, he went on to focus on art projects; in the past few years, he has had a smattering of solo art presentations. It sounds like Martin Margiela, who left his namesake label at the end of last year, may be leaning toward a similar path: he's rumored to be going back to school — art school. [@jcreportglobal]

martin margiela

>> Martin Margiela Didn't Always Avoid Press —Martin Margiela is legendary for being press shy — you'd be hard-pressed to find a picture of him — but when he was first starting out on his own in the late '80s and early '90s, he did some interviews and appearances.  Graca Fisher, who was a model in eight of Margiela's early shows and helped with sales at the time, thinks that the media circus just wasn't to his taste.  To illustrate, she describes a shoot for i-D magazine highlighting new designers, in which she and Margiela arrived at the Paris nightclub Palace.

>> Martin Margiela Didn't Always Avoid Press —Martin Margiela is legendary for being press shy — you'd be hard-pressed to find a picture of him — but when he was first starting out on his own in the late '80s and early '90s, he did some interviews and appearances.  Graca Fisher, who was a model in eight of Margiela's early shows and helped with sales at the time, thinks that the media circus just wasn't to his taste.  To illustrate, she describes a shoot for i-D magazine highlighting new designers, in which she and Margiela arrived at the Paris nightclub Palace. She was seated onstage and the photographer directed a man to rub his hands all over her.  When they left, she asked Margiela, "What was that all about?"  He replied, as she recalls, "Don't ask me. It was disgusting." [NY Times]

Christian Lacroix

Ch-ch-ch-changes of Fashion in '09

2009 saw major changes — some rather shocking — in the most renowned fashion houses.
2009 Fashion House Changes

2009 saw major changes — some rather shocking — in the most renowned fashion houses. The one that stung most was the demise of Christian Lacroix. The economic downturn spawned the downfall of one of fashion's most grand couture houses. Lacroix was forced to shut down, only to be reduced to a licensing operation. Check out the heartfelt love fashion fans gave him at the closing of his final show. Luella Bartley, Maison Martin Margiela, Olivier Theyskens, and others also experienced some unwelcome changes this year. But there was also light for some. Learn about the year's biggest fashion changes . . .

Luella

>> What Are Luella Bartley and Martin Margiela Up To?

>> What Are Luella Bartley and Martin Margiela Up To? —Olivier Theyskens has taken his time between labels to put together a book, but what about Martin Margiela, who has officially severed ties with his namesake label, and Luella Bartley, who lost her financing and is to ship her Spring 2010 collection? Margiela wanted to walk away from fashion and has instead been pouring his energies into painting; Bartley, meanwhile, has been acting as creative consultant to Liberty and retreated to Cornwall to look after her three children and decide what to do next. [WWD, Telegraph UK]

UPDATE: Apparently Margiela was in Los Angeles recently, looking for homes in West Hollywood. [@BinkleyOnStyle]

martin margiela

Martin Margiela Is Officially Totally Gone from MMM and Will Not Be Replaced

>> For the better part of a year, rumors of Martin Margiela's withdrawal from his label have plagued the industry.

>> For the better part of a year, rumors of Martin Margiela's withdrawal from his label have plagued the industry. In October, majority owner Renzo Rosso finally confirmed that Margiela was no longer involved in design and later said he was about to name a replacement.

It seems Rosso has changed his mind: Giovanni Pungetti, chief executive of Maison Martin Margiela, said today that the designer has quietly left the comapny and will not be replaced. The fashion house, which had in the past offered his job to Haider Ackermann and Raf Simons, will continue to operate with the creative staff, 28-strong, that Margiela developed over his 20-year stint. According to Pungetti: “It would have been very simple to hire someone else, and we evaluated that option, but in the end, what is important is the taste of designer."

What spurred the departure? »