While the Spring collections were applauded, by retailers and editors alike, for their bursts of color and various prints, I wonder how the boots of Spring will go over. My eyes zeroed in on these fierce boots models strutted on the Givenchy, Balenciaga, and Miu Miu catwalks. These elaborate boots are fit for warriors; or, for the wardrobe of a sci-fi film. I can definitely see the Olsens daring to wear these, or the top reigning editors. If you had the means, would you dare?
I refuse to accept the fact that the European Spring ready-to-wear shows are over. So, I will continue to believe by sharing some more of my highlights; I'm sure you won't mind. Lanvin concluded Paris and what a grande finale it was. While the rest of the collection was magically inventive, and wonderfully wearable, these jewel-toned party frocks stole my heart. Words can't describe the sensations these fabric creations arouse in me. Ok, now I know you're thinking I've gone fashion cuckoo. Well think what you want, but these Alber Elbaz dresses were the ne plus ultra of Paris. As the designer puts it: "Everything is about ease for the woman...zip it on, zip it off, that's it." You heard the man — that's it!
Paris really ended the fashion weeks of Spring with a bang. A big bang. A big bang where all I could see was stars. Not of the Pop sort, of the celestial sort. A sucker for a flashy motif once in a while, we saw Chanel's take on black and white stars — gorgeous — and bold metallic stars entranced on Pilati's Yves Saint Laurent runway. While Pilati's collection received lukewarm reviews, I loved the star motif used on shoes, belts and jewelry. Call me a teeny bopper, I was starstruck after these two Paris presentations. Did they razzle dazzle you too?
Backstage Beauty: Ann Demeulemeester The look at Ann Demeulemeester's fashion show was so sharp that I thought you might like to see how it was done. MAC makeup artist Rudi Cremers said of the look's inspiration: “30s, Man Ray, shadows, light dropped from one side of the face.” For a step-by-step guide...
If the house of Kenzo knows one thing it's color. Ok, two things, prints too. While nearly everyone has attempted their hand at color and prints for Spring, this sequin dress was pure delight when my eyes met it. I think my pupils even enlarged a bit, from the excitement of the rainbow colors filing together in a sequin patchwork pattern. For some it may be too much, but for me it's pure pleasure. Where do you stand?
In a show dedicated to his discoverer, Isabella Blow, who passed away earlier this year, McQueen revisited some of his greatest hits. Architectural & fantastical hat creations by Blow's other big discovery and frequent McQueen collaborator Philip Treacy featured prominently — they were her trademark, after all. The whole runway venue even smelled like Blow, since a bottle of her signature perfume was given to every guest.
The collection formed a wardrobe any drama queen would covet: Hitchcockian suits, ombre kimono dresses, and lace inserts abounded. As always, McQueen was daring with vertiginous Japanese geta-inspired sandals, rainbow prints, and face-covering masks. But my favorite had to be the phoenix motif, so appropriate because of its symbolism of rebirth. The bird, in all its feathered glory, front and center on a beautiful baby blue gown; Isabella Blow couldn't have asked for a better tribute.
To see more from the master McQueen, read more
Stella has swept me off my vintage sandals — this hasn't happened for a few seasons with her. I don't know if it's the overall hippie feel, the flowing watercolor prints or the sharp, yet soft, khaki tailoring, but her Spring collection is beautifully feminine.
With the lightweight touch that is Stella, her flower ladies were also in the company of easy breezy girls in neutrals and blues. A cool paisley print was also lovely, as were the ruffles, crochet details and some slight Native American beading on the accessories — love. It was also sleepy time, with silky soft dresses and separates resembling both womens and menswear pajamas, but her strong tailoring nipped any overly ethereal feel in the bed, I mean, bud! My one gripe: just say no to onesies! Stella obviously has a soft spot for them and I do not concur.
All of this beauty was set against a "vertical vegetal wall" created by botanist Patrick Blanc. As you all know, Stella is a vegetarian designer with a purpose.
To see more Stella, read more
Love It or Hate It? Blinged-Out Lips at John Galliano Ah, John Galliano, that master of minimalism. Seriously, how does he manage to turn out such understated looks time after time? For instance, at his fashion show in Paris, you could barely tell that his models wore any makeup at all. The eyeliner? Barely perceptible. The crystals glued to lips? Very low-key. And don't get me started on that clean, bouncy hair.
Just in time for Halloween, Marc Jacobs has a naughty nurse costume for you. And that's just the beginning of a slightly mad, slightly amazing, Spring Louis Vuitton collection.
Inspired by both the artist Richard Prince, see the nurses and the accessories, and SpongeBob SquarePants, see the colors, it's no wonder Jacobs churned out another crazed collection. For those of you who remember his New York hodgepodge of clothes, for Louis Vuitton he had a similar scatterbrained vibe. There was some sheer energy — all the way up to the top of models' heads with sheer headpieces. And while some looks appeared to be deconstructed prom dresses of yore, his other plays with fabrics — Lurex knits, tweed, sequins — were a delight. There was a mess of accessories, from statement jewelry to questionable handbags and gloves.
If you ask me, some of this mess is wearable and scream funky editorial fare, as for the rest, not so much.
To see more LV, read more
Dries Van Noten's latest collection didn't lack any colors or prints. Though sometimes mixing too many hues and prints can lead a look haywire, such is not the case here. The funkiness seriously appeals to me and is especially refreshing amid a sea of safe collections. Whether this look is translatable to the streets is worth debating. Do you love it or hate it?
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