surrealist

Update: Olivier Theyskens was thought to maybe take over the helm but sources have confirmed this false. 2010 is the date we can expect to witness the revival.

Before you know it, we may have another storied fashion house back on our hands. The Italian business mogul Diego Della Valle, who also owns Tod's, bought the rights to Elsa Schiaparelli earlier this year.

Ever since, he's been on the hunt for a designer to bring the house, most famous for its 1937 surrealist lobster evening dress collaboration with Salvador Dali, back to its former glory. Talks with Roland Mouret fell through, but WWD is reporting that British designer Giles Deacon has risen to the top of the pile. Exciting!

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After last season, when models walked out attached to their own personal lighting apparatuses, I was curious to see what gimmick Viktor & Rolf would come up with next.

Viktor Horsting and Rolf Snoeren are romancing the harlequin for Spring: Pierrot collars, pom-poms, diamond shapes, and violins were choice motifs. The pretty palette was Chanel-inspired: black, white, blushing pink and peach. There were a couple trademark fashion-as-surrealist-art outfits — the ruffled pink coat which framed the model's face with a white rosette and pink violin, for instance.

But as the models emerged from a gaping mouth, it was clear that Viktor & Rolf was going more commercial. Wearable silk minidresses with lace collars and multiple beautiful tiered gowns were red carpet-ready. Even the violin theme was toned down to a lace appliqué or a necklace. Subtle Viktor & Rolf, but the Amsterdam-based fashion brand still astounds.

To see more from V&R, including a runway video, read more