toni garrn

>> Before heading back to the States from Venice, a number of Chanel Cruise attendees — and show strutters like Toni Garrn and Siri Tollerod — made a stop over in Vienna for the annual Life Ball AIDS charity spectacular Saturday evening.  The town hall was surrounded by 2.5 million liters of water trucked in for this year's marine theme, and the guest list topped 40,000.

Amber Valletta opened the motorcade in a blue crystal-covered chariot, Anja Rubik was in attendance wearing her favorite label as of late, Balmain, and Sessilee Lopez sported a blonde wig for one of her turns during the catwalk festivities.  Heather Marks, Iris Strubegger, Emina Cunmulaj, Eliza Cummings, Kinga Rajzak, Sara Blomqvist all also participated, plus first-timer Stephanie Carta, who described the experience as "a fantasy world of glitter and botox and some kind of neverending celebration."

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>>  A few seasons ago, Jourdan Dunn made headlines as the first model of color to walk Prada in ten years; Prada is carefully casted and a coup like that can make a model's career.  The same goes for Calvin Klein, except that since CK is so early on in the season, it sets the tone for the rest of the three Fashion Weeks.  This afternoon, Lyndsey Scott became one of the few models of color to land in the Calvin Klein lineup — Jourdan Dunn has done the honors in recent seasons.  Monika "Jac" Jagaciak bounced back from her fall at Herve Leger to both open and close; Addison Gill, Bojana Reljic, and Louis Maselis round out the chosen ones as exclusives — expect to see much more from all.

Notably, former house face Toni Garrn and current face Anna Selezneva were missing in action, but enough about models — let's not forget Francisco Costa's turn to the darker side — burned out lace patterning and pops of chartreuse keep the collection right where we want it: coveted.
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>> Spring 2009 campaigns may be overrun with supermodels, but two younger, less-established models are giving them a run for their campaign money: Toni Garrn and Anna Maria Jagodzinska.

17-year-old German model Toni — who Art + Commerce called the "undisputed First Lady of Advertising Campaigns" for the season — broke onto the scene with a worldwide runway exclusive to Calvin Klein in September 2007, followed by an only-girl campaign for the brand; 21-year-old Polish model Anna Maria is a Steven Meisel favorite who has been around since 2003, took a break from modeling for two years in 2006, only came back with a smash in 2008.  Between the two of them they have at least twenty Spring 2009 ad campaigns, including Balenciaga, Fendi, Gianfranco Ferre, and joint campaigns for Prada and Chloe.  Their ad currency is strong, and it's worth noting that so many brands still think blondes are where the money is.
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>> For Fall 2008, three of the big campaigns that every model wants to catch — Prada, Balenciaga, and Miu Miu — all went with one big name — Linda Evangelista, Charlotte Gainsbourg, and Vanessa Paradis, respectively.

Come Spring 2009, all three labels have decided to switch things up by using a large number of new faces — Prada is using eight models (Anna Jagodzinska, Giedre Dukauskaite, Katrin Thormann, Nimue Smit, Sigrid Agren, Toni Garrn, Viktoriya Sasonkina, Ymre Stiekema); Miu Miu is using eight models as "accessories" to campaign star Katie Holmes (Darya Kurovska, Elena Lomkova, Imogen Morris-Clarke, Katie Fogarty, Myf Shepherd, Sophie Srej, Tilda Lindstam, Yulia Leontieva); and Balenciaga is going with ten models (Amanda Laine, Anabela Belikova, Anna Jagodzinska, Anya Kazakova, Diana Farkhullina, Elsa Sylvan, Hanne-Gaby Odiele, Iris Strubegger, Katie Fogarty, Kinga Rajzak).

Surprisingly, there are only two girls overlapping between the campaigns: Anna Jagodzinska in Balenciaga and Prada and Katie Fogarty in Miu Miu and Balenciaga, and especially in Miu Miu's cast, some girls — Tilda Lindstam, Yulia Leontieva — are very new faces. Although some are skeptical, especially in the case of Miu Miu, that all the models cast will make it into the final shots, it's notable that all three labels, which usually go with one face, have all decided that power comes in numbers this season.  Get to know the chosen faces in the gallery below.
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>> Tommaso Aquilano and Roberto Rimondi had a tall order to fill for Spring 2009.  Before Gianfranco Ferre passed in 2007, his architectural-based label had ceased to become relevent — as Cathy Horyn put it, "It’s been a while since anyone [has] paid serious attention to the Ferre name."  So could the newly tapped designers bring it back to the forefront?

The general consensus says yes.  Nicole Phelps of Style.com was pleased: "They deserve high marks for this outing." Cathy Horyn of The New York Times, a Aquilano-Rimondi fan, loved the effort, with one caveat: "The designers distilled the essence of Ferre in a new, eye-catching way. Now to just refine the elements a bit more . . . " WWD felt the same: "Aquilano and Rimondi have the right ideas, but what they need now is a little restraint."

Suzy Menkes of the International Herald Tribune also echoed the same sentiment: "Not all the Ferré collection was approachable. Yet . . .  the two designers created the clothes and the buzz that will bring fashion life back to Ferré."  With another season under their belts, Aquilano and Rimondi could definitely hit the right stride at Ferre.
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>> Phillip Lim created the mascot skirt of Fashion Week earlier this year — not kidding, I've seen it on at least one person every day this week — and if the attendance to his newest collection's presentation is any indication, Spring 2009 will be smooth sailing for 3.1 Phillip Lim — the Tent was packed to the gills with fans, including friends Richard Chai and Irina Lazareanu, both sitting front row.

Christian Louboutin designed ruffled heels for the collection, eliciting covetousness in many — in fact, the whole Spring 2009 season is about ruffles for Phillip.  The treatment in some of the dresses and skirts reminded me of a tamed version of Marc Jacobs's Spring 2007 ruffles, but among the hazy smoke that hovered on the runway, the real standouts emerged — the stiff, open-edged zipper pieces, and the jewelry Eddie Borgo made for the occasion.
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>> Alexander Wang's sweat-inspired Spring 2009 collection, featuring shiny-faced models, was quite appropriate — yesterday had the fashion crowd dripping from heat, and today, Tropical Storm Hanna blew in just in time for Alex's show.

Not that the weather would keep anyone away; Anna Wintour attended Alex's show for the first time ever — a symbol of his quick rise. As the lights went down, the sunglasses went on, and she only broke pose a couple of times — once to consult Virginia Smith's program, and the other to fiddle with her BlackBerry.

The show was definitely a different experience, now that Alex has moved on from Erin Wasson, collaborating with stylist Alastair McKimm instead, but all of the classic Wang elements — zippers, leather, a slouchy, downtown feel — were all there. The only major slip up was at the end, when all the models — stellar cast, I might add (Jourdan Dunn!) — took their final tour and got stopped up returning backstage. We're talking line of models, basically at a standstill, at the end of the show. Alex skipped out, did his usual jump and punch the air routine. And then Anna ran out.

To get the full experience, check out the runway video on Elle.com.
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>> Take working-class fashion, add a pinch of Joy Division, and you've got the inspiration David Neville and Marcus Wainwright were drawing on for their Spring 2009 collection. The Rag & Bone show changed venues this season from the upscale Cipriani to the more hard-edged Pier 94 — a change from polished to slightly edgy that you could also say was reflected in the clothes.

Black wraparound leather belts with threateningly sharp silver spikes accented so many of the looks, and are sure to be a must-have — but even the typical Rag & Bone tweedy suits were rock-n-rolled up with a leather mini, like Julia Dunstall's closing look, or a silvery silk sheen, like Jessica Stam's blazer.

The model cast was full of high notes — stalwarts like opener Sasha Pivovarova or Coco Rocha — and the coveted new girls like Aline Weber and Liu Wen. Arlenis Pena was there too: she's had a big day, between being named as the new face of Lancome and slipping up at BCBG this morning.

To get the full experience, check out the runway video at Elle.com.
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