victoria traina

>> After last season's school girl-inspired kicky mini skirts, thigh highs, and varsity jackets, Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez were ready to do "something a little more polished, maybe grown-up in a way, but our way," the latter explained. “We’d gone as short as we could, and as body-conscious as we could . . . So we took all these feminine codes — the embroideries, the flowers — and mixed them up in our own way."

Welcome the pink tweedy suits, the salmon matte croc coat, the ladylike pumps — no platforms — and the lingerie done in collaboration with Jean Yu (who also worked with Rag & Bone this season), allowing for a little covering up, a novel thought in this season of sheer. Also a surprise: flats on the Proenza Schouler runway, in sandal and knee-high gladiator form. But it wouldn't be a Proenza collection of late without a little fluoro — and it came aplenty, in acid green, pink, orange, and cobalt. Textures were complex in this collection — the first few pieces to come out had what Cathy Horyn termed the texture of "a freshly clipped poodle; no, a cauliflower; no, finer!" — and the label's trademark tie dye was reimagined this time with the ancient form of Japanese shibori.

Interesting to note: Victoria Traina was indeed listed as creative consultant on this collection, and Theory's Andrew Rosen — who was rumored earlier this year to be circling an investment in Proenza — was front row, just as rumors resurface that Rosen is looking to buy the brand from European private equity fund Permira.

>> Joseph Altuzarra may have gone with an intimate presentation at Milk Studios last night, but his guest list packed a lot of punch.  The Roitfeld clan was well-represented: Carine, Vladimir, and Julia were all there, with Vlad greeting his sister with a kiss on each cheek; his girlfriend, Giovanna Battaglia, and Julia von Boehm showed up, too.  The Trainas were also out in full force: Victoria and Samantha sat next to Chad Muska (there to support girlfriend Vanessa Traina, who walked in the show for the second time and was listed in the program notes as an "advisor") and Alexander Wang, who was relaxing with his show behind him, enjoying a glass of white wine, and chatting to close friend and interior decorator to the models Ryan Korban.  And then there was Anna Wintour, attending Altuzarra's show for the first time, who arrived early to have a chat with the designer backstage pre-show; after she took her seat, Carine smiled at Wintour as she passed.

Needless to say, Altuzarra did not disappoint.  The designer, who pushed a looser silhouette last season when everyone else was hanging onto the hard-edged look interestingly decided to veer back that way now that everyone else is moving away. Inspired by Edward Scissorhands — the film's theme was played during the show — and the current sexualization of vampires, Altuzarra started out with a stream of black leather — accented with goat hair, slashed and then stitched up suture-style, belted multiple times across the waist, chest, back, wrists, and even thighs; Abbey Lee Kershaw was even suited up in a Catwoman-style leather bodysuit.  Then came the blood red gowns, sparkling with Swarovski crystals and ending with Natasha Poly in the sophisticated version of a Little Red Riding Hood cape.  The ankle-slashed boots were done in collaboration with Gianvito Rossi, and former Vogue Paris editor (and Carine's former assistant) Melanie Huynh did styling honors.  Perhaps Bryanboy put it best when he said of the collection: "It's like raiding Carine's Closet."

>> Of all the shows this week, Jack McCollough's and Lazaro Hernandez's Proenza Schouler presentation had the most excitement and energy about it; Joe Zee agreed, calling it "one of the best this week."  We didn't know it at the time, but a piece from the collection actually debuted on Dasha Zhukova during the POP dinner last Friday.

Tonight, the lights above flickered back and forth on the bottom floor of Milk Studios, and with three Trainas in the front row — Victoria, Vanessa, and Samantha — we got to see the full urban scuba collection, which seemed to be a continuation of their Tahiti-inspired resort 2010 collection. Neon printed minidresses mirrored the backs of tropical fish, cateye sunglasses had lifeguard-style reflective lenses, neon tops resembled long sleeve Under Armor, and tinsel and feathers fringed dresses.  One girl sported beachy green-tinged hair, another purple.  And of course the boys, known for their knack with accessories, didn't disappoint with rainbow-linked minibags and strappy toggle wedges.

Afterward, they told Fashion TV's Jeanne Baker they wanted to indulge in color this season, and edited out about half their potential looks from the show to leave people wanting more.

>> Despite a scathing review in The New York Times yesterday, the" black hole of bad art and superficial temptations," otherwise known as the Chanel Mobile Art exhibition, brought out the well-heeled last night.  Editors were in full force — Carine Roitfeld and Franca Sozzani swarmed Karl Lagerfeld upon his arrival, Glenda Bailey and Amy Astley made early cameos — but there was no Anna Wintour in sight . . . nor Bee Shaffer for that matter.  Strange, considering how close they are with Karl — Bee was at the Versace-hosted Whitney gala the night before, but no Anna there either.  But speaking of missing persons — Catherine McNeil and Freja Beha Erichsen fans will be happy to know that after their well-documented disappearances during Milan and Paris Fashion Weeks, they've popped up again — together, no less.
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