FabSugar

Behind the Seams: Simon Doonan Barneys Book Signing

FabSugar — Thu, 17 Apr 2008 14:00:22 -0700

Totals. Totally. Totes. Funny words from fashion's funny man, and Barneys creative director, Simon Doonan. Fab was lucky enough to catch Mr. Doonan on a sunshiny day promoting his new book Eccentric Glamour at the Barneys store in San Francisco. As you can see, he practices what he preaches wearing a Moschino jacket yelling the words "Good Taste Doesn't Exist" and a tie that whispers "Fashion is full of chic!" As Simon puts it, "These are all Franco Moschino-isms. He was a genius and a very innovative guy. Not bad for English as a second language." Enough said.

Simon was very calm, friendly, and, of course, witty, and was happy to spill some beans for yours truly. I left the store feeling super inspired to wear my wackiest things and throw all regularity to the wind. I guess Simon has that effect on people.

What jump started this book?

I was horrified by these two trends. One was the slut trend and one was the gun-shy celebrity. So between the super-conservative celebs, who were just wearing prom gowns, and the super-slutty woman, the regular gal on the street wasn't getting any inspiration. The answer is eccentricity. Glamour and eccentricity. It's about looking inside and not looking like everyone else. It's against conformity. If everyone else has it, you don't want it. When people tend to look the same, the It bag, the fake hair, the fake tan - it can make everyone look very similar. It's about working on your own look.

To read the rest of our exclusive interview with Simon and to see more behind the seams pics, read more.

Who are some designers you have your eye on?

I think Phillip Lim is incredibly talented. The Rodarte girls are great. They've gone from being very avant-garde to a place where they're making stuff people cannot just admire but wear. Alexander Wang, the usual suspects. I love Scott Sternberg who does Band of Outsiders - I wear a lot of his clothes myself.

My favorite book of yours is Wacky Chicks. If you were to do a sequel, are there any women you would add to your list?

I would love to do Wacky Chicks Two. That book is now over five years old and a lot of the women in it are median ages, in their 40s and 50s, so there's a whole new generation of wacksters. Amy Winehouse. I strongly disagree with her drug taking - I mean it's insane - but when I was that age I was a mess, too. I think she's triggering a whole movement of eccentricity where people don't want to look like everyone else. She says it's groovy to look completely different and insane; she pulled that beehive out of no where and has her own look. She should be applauded. Because everyone was getting the Kelly Clarkson makeover, everyone ended up looking like pop princesses. What's that about?

That wasn't what we were used to in music. We're used to Annie Lennox, Grace Jones, Siouxsie Sioux - provocative girls who all look different from each other.

Debbie Harry!

Yes! Hello?!

Was there anyone on the Oscars red carpet that stood out to you?

Tilda Swinton - she's interviewed in my book. Tilda's genius. I think it's sad that people can't step back and be like: well, that isn't my cup of tea. That whole idea of the fashion police has affected everybody, people have become hypercritical, it's very high school. Everyone's in a tissy about it, it's ridiculous. Instead of just saying, why not?

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New York Fashion Week, Fall 2008: Lyn Devon and Exclusive Designer Interview!

FabSugar — Mon, 11 Feb 2008 16:00:22 -0800

Lyn Devon is a new-found Fab friend who let us in on her inspiration and fabric-tweaking techniques at New York Fashion Week. She started her design house in 2005 where her artful designs have won accolades - including the 2007 Fashion Group International "Rising Star Award" in Women's Ready to Wear. Oh, and she previously worked at Zac Posen and Ralph Lauren. Fans include Sarah Jessica Parker, Mena Suvari, and yours truly. Take a look at her Fall collection: A futuristic approach to Medieval armor, and read all about it below!

Why don’t you tell me a bit about inspiration.

This season I started with armor. A warrior. An artful, independent spirit - which is always my muse. I really wanted to play with the idea of hard and soft and having these structural elements but keeping it feminine and really contoured to the body. I definitely brought it closer to the body this season. I was feeling sexy.

Which is your favorite look from the collection?

I’m really excited about the navy shirtdress. It’s simple but tailored to the body and has this interesting detail. We used this technique: We sliced away the fabric and then inserted borders underneath so if you look up close you see these slices, these different sections on the body. I love to play with lines on the body. This particular dress we encrusted with an armor of Swarovski crystals.

To read the rest of my interview and to see more looks from Lyn, read more

What about the fabrics and materials you used?

I’ve used a stretch file that is really amazing because it holds shape very well. The A-line shape is one of the silhouettes I was working with, in addition to the very fitted silhouettes. I used a chinced wool that has this hard armor-like sheen to it but at the same time it’s really soft. This blanket wool that has a protective feeling. Some great jerseys and crepe wool, which allowed me to contour to the body but in an effortless way.

It’s true: The clothes may be armor but they don’t look stiff.

I always embrace effortlessness. There’s definitely that play of trying to create a tough elegance but always making it wearable and modern.

What’s next?!

I’m thinking Cuba - I might take a trip there. I want to keep it sultry and sexy. I just bought a book about Cuba and you’ll see something slightly less constructed.

What one item of clothing should every woman have in her closet?

Definitely a little black dress. The one from my Fall collection; it holds you in, you can wear it with boots or heels. That’s my little black dress of the season.

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New York Fashion Week, Fall 2008: Nanette Lepore & Fab Exclusive Interview!

FabSugar — Thu, 07 Feb 2008 02:00:22 -0800

Nanette Lepore's designs have always been popular with party-ready ladies and now I know why: Nanette herself is a fun-loving girlie girl. Check out my exclusive interview with her after a few words about her Fall collection . . .

What I loved most were the black and ivory pieces, actually. Lepore really knows how to use Chantilly lace and tailor a pant. There were some coats with serious character - a common theme throughout the New York shows - and some highly desirable knits. A fuchsia knit dress caught my eye backstage and on the runway. Her suiting always has a way of being sexy and '30s inspired dresses were classic, but modern. The Warhol-esque flower print was bright enough to stand out in a crowd but mellow enough to wear every day.

To read my exclusive interview with Nanette and to see backstage and runway pictures, read more

Have you done anything different with your Fall collection?

What’s new and different is we edited the runway show down to 28 looks. It’s all about growing up and being mature about throwing out what’s not fabulous.

That’s totally what I’m trying to do with my closet!

I know, it’s so hard and I feel like I’ve done so many shows and I’ve finally achieved this point where I’m 20 looks fewer than I used to do. Because it’s so hard in life to know what’s good and what’s not good. So it’s really working through and jumping on ideas early enough that we only have the star ones.

But the real idea behind the show is just going out and partying and being a fabulous, confident, sexy woman. Going to a cocktail party in a tiara and feeling good about yourself. But what I love about this collection is that there are lots of classics.

There’s black and white tweed mixed with all shades of pink - from powder pink to fuchsia. Then big bold flower prints, which are anchored with Chantilly lace and velvet to bring them into a Fall feel. And pearls! Little bits of pearl beading and brooches. When I thought about the collection I thought these are staples for every woman’s wardrobe. The great high waisted pencil skirt, pretty Chantilly lace tops and bustiers, and pearls. And pink!

What are your favorite pieces from the collection?

The bohemian blouse with pearl beading, a fitted chiffon stripe dress that flairs really full at the hips with sequin edging, I love the little black dress – it’s a very pretty corseted silhouette, with a draped sleeve.

Any new collaborations we can get excited for?

We have a lingerie licensing we expect to sign very shortly. And we have new shops opening on Melrose in LA and in Chevy Chase, Maryland.

Who are your fashion icons?

I love going through and looking at anyone from the ‘30s - Schiaparelli, Coco Chanel. Currently John Galliano, his recent couture collection was unbelievable. I always love Gaultier because he has such a fun aesthetic to the way he mixes things up. And Prada too; she’s always doing something really interesting.

What are three key pieces every woman should have in her closet?

A high waisted pencil skirt, a beautiful evening coat and a sexy pair of feminine pumps.

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Hear What One Mulleavy Sister Has to Say and See Behind the Scenes at Rodarte

FabSugar — Wed, 06 Feb 2008 15:00:22 -0800

The Mulleavy sisters are on the rise, and after attending a Rodarte show for the first time, I now see why. Though Laura and Kate's designs aren't everyday wearable or affordable, they are art. And the sisters are evolving. One thing is for sure: Rodarte has found a niche. A fantastical world where women are feminine creatures who inhabit an otherworldly place. Intrigued? I caught up with Laura in the Lexus lounge after her show, and she spoke the creative speak of a designer in her element.

What are you feeling now that your show is over?

I am exhausted, excited, and happy. I was so nervous that last two days and I have no idea why.

More nervous than before?

Oh definitely. I think we were just so invested in it and it was definitely “us.” It just meant a lot for us to do this collection and get to a point where you grow and you can do more; it just felt different.

There were so many textures and colors in your collection. Let’s talk inspiration.

It started with the idea of Japanese horror films and Kabuki theater. Then we had the color red - how do you make red beautiful? Is it through orchids and peaches; do you use blacks, white, grays? And if you want to use all those colors, how do you balance it all? I felt like last season was a lot of watercolor pieces, but this season it felt like a movement of color too but in a stronger way.

To read the rest of what Laura has to say and to see Fab pre- and post-show photos, read more

What about your choice of fabrics?

Tulle and mohair and silk tulle. Anything light and see-through. Organza. Or has a quality that it seems to be broken but it’s so sturdy. I love that.

I am San Francisco-based, so I wanted to ask you about the Bay Area and your time at UC Berkeley.

We grew up in northern California – Santa Cruz, Monterey - and then moved to southern California in high school. But we both went to Berkeley. If you can go to college, I would tell anyone to try to go to Berkeley. I had the most amazing professors. There was something about being taught by someone that was the best at their field. There’s something really amazing about that campus too; it’s really beautiful.

At what point in time did you guys talk about becoming designers?

We always wanted to be designers, but we never really talked about it. It was what we loved, but I never considered going to design school. I wanted to learn other things. Everyone has a different way of working. I think we work by trying to learn things and then seeing how it works.

Can we talk about those Christian Louboutin shoes?!

Oh yeah (laughs). You need a base, and if you can imagine something delicate, I can only see it going hand in hand with something harder and graphic. The heels were six-and-a-half inches, but I didn’t know they would be! We knew we wanted them high. We were very careful with the girls, and they were girls who could walk in them. We practiced a lot. They were excited.

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A Few Fab Words With Ecco Domani Fashion Foundation Winner Wayne D. Lee of WAYNE

FabSugar — Wed, 30 Jan 2008 07:00:22 -0800

You will find clothes that encompass her personal background in Wayne D. Lee of WAYNE's clothes. The Vietnamese-born designer and Ecco Domani Fashion Foundation winner comes from a long line of tailors and believes that fashion is in her blood. I'm with you sister. Well, the fashion in the blood part. I do not come from a lineage of tailors, but I do want to hear what Wayne has to say. If you do too, a few Fab words . . .

What kind of girl do you design for?

I design for girls who have their own independent style and personality, someone who's also adventurous and not afraid to take risks.

What are your favorite fabrics to work with? The toughest fabrics to work with?

Fave Fabrics: wools and cottons. Toughest: silks.

What's your next trip destination?

Vietnam.

To learn more about Wayne and to see more of her clothes, read more

What's the biggest lesson you've learned in the last year?

Endurance and patience.

What's in store for Fall '08?

'40s menswear and aviator uniform inspired clothing with a modern edge: chic blazer suits, stylish herringbone coats with leather, elegant somewhat loose-fitting dresses with unique details, boyfriend sweaters.

What's the best part of being an Ecco Domani Fashion Foundation winner?

The best part is the recognition which comes with the prize. Being a winner has tremendously made the WAYNE label stand out among the fashion crowd and potential buyers.

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A Few Fab Words With Ecco Domani Fashion Foundation Winner Emma Fletcher of Lyell

FabSugar — Tue, 29 Jan 2008 06:00:22 -0800

One glimpse at Emma Fletcher's designs for Lyell and you get the sense that she takes her job very seriously. Her Ecco Domani Fashion Foundation win proves that she does outstanding work. The Australia native also owns a small boutique in NYC's Nolita neighborhood called Lyell, which stocks rare vintage finds from European designers, as well as her own vintage-inspired merchandise. We recently caught up with Emma to pick her brain. A few Fab words, if you will . . .

What’s the biggest lesson you’ve learned in the last year?

Up until recently, which I don't know if it's out of fear or a innate wanting to be out on my own, I always aimed at only wanting to make clothes for myself and for the store. Keeping everything nice and simple. But as more interest and demand is coming my way, I understand the value of having a show, and expanding Lyell's reach. The award has really forced me into a whole new realm of exposure that is as equally scary as it is exciting. The big lesson is it pays to be involved and talk to people and get help.

To read more of Emma's interview and to see more of her creations, read more

Where do you get your inspiration for every season from?

I usually tend to react against the season before, but in the end it always comes back to being in the tight Lyell framework. In general I draw inspiration from movies, photos, vintage clothing; usually something catches my eye and I build from there. This season, the starting point was the Julie Christie movie Don't Look Now. On top of that, I get these fantasy notions of different lifestyles that I'd be living if I wasn't in New York, whether that is a shaker lifestyle, living in the 20's/30's, Parisian life, etc.

What are your favorite fabrics to work with? The toughest fabrics to work with?

I always use lots of silk, silk chiffons, silk velvets, laces, which are not easy. All the factories tell me the pieces are hard to execute but I know because I don't have these kinds of skills. I think the toughest part is the finishings that I want done - pleatings, embroideries, stitchings, etc.

Do you have any plans for product expansion?

I am always looking to do the next thing. I've designed a bra and undies set for the first time which I would really like to expand. Also, the first Lyell men's shirt will be ready soon. And then there are accessories; I did shoes once, and would love to do those again. But I feel like I really need to have the women's sorted out before I spread myself too thin.

What’s in store for Fall ‘08?

This collection is art deco, complete with lots of cream and black, angular lines, and graphic elements.

What’s the best part of being an Ecco Domani Fashion Foundation winner?

Being forced to do my first show. I would've never have done it without it.

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A Few Fab Words With Ecco Domani Fashion Foundation Winner Elise Øverland

FabSugar — Mon, 28 Jan 2008 09:00:11 -0800

She started out designing stagewear for rockers like Steven Tyler and then started her own proper line in 2006. In a very short time, the rockin' appeal of Elise Øverland's chiffon dresses, cropped leather jackets, and fitted leather leggings have earned her some die-hard fans and serious accolades. I was lucky enough to snag the Ecco Domani Fashion Foundation winner for a few Fab words . . .

Do you have a muse?

Hope Atherton. She started out as my friend with the same stream of creative conciseness, but now she's more my Siamese twin, grown out of my left hip.

What do you consider your forte? Your biggest design challenges?

The creative part of me drips out of my fingertips all day, but the biggest challenge is to balance that with the business side. The financial side is linear and mathematical following time and space, whereas the creative side is vertical and taps into a world not existing of these rules. This dilemma always stresses me out.

To read who her favorite designer is and to see more of her work, read more

Who are your favorite designers?

I don't have a favorite designer, it all changes every season, but if was going to mention one over the decades I think it would be Gaultier. He manages to stay modern, creative, and capture a wide variety of customers.

Describe the Elise Øverland girl?

She is strong, independent, and a bit carefree and rock 'n' roll at heart. I like the clothes and the customer to have a sense of effortless glamour.

What’s in store for Fall ‘08?

Three key things: Small shrunken leather jackets with silver hardware almost like a little accessory piece that you have over a little dress; I have a lot of silk dresses in watercolor tie dye print with rustic small coins; and last, the super thin stretch leather pants that you pull on like tights without a zipper and all the fabric in the crotch.

What’s the best part of being an Ecco Domani Fashion Foundation winner?

The best part of being an Ecco Domani winner is it puts an extra spotlight on the brand, and it generates more interest from people that don't know the brand yet. Not to mention the drunk driving my employees have been doing on the sewing machines with all the great wine we were sent.

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A Few Fab Words With Ecco Domani Fashion Foundation Winner José Ramón Réyes of Réyes

FabSugar — Fri, 25 Jan 2008 05:00:22 -0800

The crisp and youthful designs of José Ramón Réyes of Réyes may be familiar to some of you. We have featured them on Fab a few times. Edging his way as a designer of tomorrow, this Ecco Domani Fashion Foundation winner will be showing for the third time in New York's upcoming Fashion Week. While I hope to bring you his newest creations he is putting the finishing touches on very soon, he has shared some insights with us as well as a sketch from his upcoming Fall collection. Cool, huh? A few Fab words . . .

What's been the biggest challenge for you?

Every season there's a new challenge......I feel that the more the business grows the more challenging it gets. At the same time I also grow as an individual and therefore learn to deal with the stress and the challenges in a different manner.

Who do you design clothes for? Describe the Réyes girl?

She’s a girl who loves clothes and enjoy getting dressed up but never in a pretentious way!

A word of advice to other young aspiring designers?

Stick to your vision and what you believe in. Moving forward and learning from your mistakes and very important. Pick yourself up as soon as you fall.

To read more about Réyes and to see some faves from his Spring collection, read more

Goals for the next year?

My personal goal is to continue with my French lessons - I want to be fluent by years end and on the business side of things we just moved into a new office space and are bringing sales in house. We are expanding our distribution in both in Europe and Asia and signing with a distributor in Japan.

What's in store for Fall '08?

It’s a surprise! Please come to see the show!

What’s the best part of being an Ecco Domani Fashion Foundation winner?

Most importantly is the association with Ecco Domani and what the award represents. I’m honored to be part of such a wonderful group of past and present winners. There’s a certain prestige associated with winning this award that has help launched the careers of so many incredible designers. Also the monetary aspect helps a lot too!

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A Few Fab Words With Ecco Domani Fashion Foundation Winner Justin Giunta of Subversive Jewelry

FabSugar — Thu, 24 Jan 2008 06:00:22 -0800

You may recall we announced the winners of this year's Ecco Domani Fashion Foundation. And wait, it gets better. We were able to pick the brain of one winner, Justin Giunta of Subversive Jewelry. You may recognize his name and off-kilter designs from the pages of Vogue, W and NYLON, to name a few. This Pittsburgh native has dabbled in painting, fashion, industrial design, but has (sort of) settled on jewelry design. He now lives and works in New York City. I'm sure we'll only see more of Justin and Subversive, in the meantime, a few Fab words . . .

Where do you get your inspiration from?

Everywhere. I am perpetually inspired by Art History and Contemporary Design.

What's been the biggest challenge for you?

Balancing all the girls who want to be my dates for the Balls! Of course.

To read the rest and to see more of his baubles, read more

Any upcoming collaborations we can look forward to?

Must wait and see. "The best is yet to come"

What's in store for 2008?

A divergence from the norm, lots of embroidered chains and jewels.

What's best the best part of being an Ecco Domani Fashion Foundation winner?

It is truly an honor to be recognized by the Ecco Domani Fashion Foundation in the Accessories category. My professional platform has always been to site that accessories are as influential in the industry as clothing. The introduction of this award category is a testament to this, and I am thrilled to have received it.

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Nancy Gonzalez Loves a Challenge

FabSugar — Tue, 19 May 2009 09:00:22 -0700

Not too long ago, Saks invited me to meet handbag designer Nancy Gonzalez. For those not familiar, Nancy has been delivering decadent - read: exotic - handbags since 1998. Think of a Nancy Gonzalez bag as a classic - up there with Chanel and Bottega Veneta - only spicier. That is because Nancy hails from Colombia and splits her time between New York and her native country. She was very warm and vivacious. But when it came her to her bags, she was serious.

Others serious about Nancy's bags include Mary-Kate Olsen, who has recently been carrying her clutches, and a couple appeared in the Sex and the City movie. They're everywhere really; you just have to keep an eye out, as there's no mistaking her bright croc signature. Here's what goes on in the designer's brain.

What made you decide to work with animal skins for your bags?

"I have always worked with precious skins. The collaboration with nature has always fascinated me."

How do you get your colored bags so bright?

"My colors are inspired by the exuberant landscape of my native Colombia. All our skins our naturally dyed and then buffed, which brings out this particular radiant, colorful luster that my bags have."

To read the rest, read more

Which is your favorite bag from your latest collection?

"I am always attached to those bags which are hardest to do. Such as the woven crocodile ones. In particular, one woven in the shape of leaves."

Your bags are pretty pricey. Are you going to be doing anything in a lower price point in reaction to the current economic crisis?

"One's own state of mind will inform the time and style in which one lives. My job as a designer is to interpret the times with imagination, artistry, and daring. I want to provide a chic, effortless, modern, approachable, and beautiful product at the right price."

Describe the women who wear your bags.

"Every woman that wants a universal, unique, true, exciting, sincere, and joyful experience."

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