There are lots of gray areas in the tension between menswear and womenswear, and for Fall 2013, Ann Demeulemeester explored that tension using only black and white fabrics.
Ann Demeulemeester presented a collection constructed around flowing layers for Spring 2013. Body conscious silhouettes in saturated greens, blues, and purples were defined at the waist with corset-like leather belts. Contrasting the structure of the belts were floor-length transparent sleeves. More structural pieces, like metallic silver blazers, were layered with sheer fabric, provided the perfect transition to the billowy draped dresses which finished out her romantic, yet edgy collection.
If the floor-skimming sleeves and coattails Ann Demeulemeester sent down the runway during her Spring 2013 collection reminded viewers of superhero capes, that's because they were supposed to. Demeulemeester spun the story of a dark heroine (imagine Catwoman if she hadn't been so attached to a bodysuit) out of chiffon, jersey, and small bits of leather cut into corset-like belts and harnesses.
But this show wasn't just about fighting the bad guys. While there was lots of tough black, there were also some pieces in a deep purple and an ethereal white — like one billowing style worn by Karlie Kloss. There were also some excellent suits in a silvery fabric that featured elongated jackets and high hems on the well-tailored pants. After all, even superheros need something to wear at their day jobs.
>> At first glance — with all the feather-spiked hair and thigh-high leather — Ann Demeulemeester's Fall 2012 collection might appear to veer a little too far into hardcore territory. But dig a little deeper, look a little longer, and here's what you'll uncover: a graceful collection of artfully-draped separates and precisely-tailored jackets, all in a lush palette of black-on-black and indigo.
Don't be deterred by Ann Demeulemeester's Fall 2012 tough-girl exterior and Edward Scissorhands-inspired coifs, this collection was chock-full of gorgeously elegant dresses, skirts with expertly deconstructed pleats, and perfectly structured outerwear. Like our antihero Edward Scissorhands, we think this blue- and black-hued lineup shows off a mean-looking exterior at first glance, but the sum of its parts are acutely beautiful with a serious dose of edge and excellent tailoring upon further examination. Be sure to take note of the standout styles: high-necked, floor-sweeping frocks paired with leather opera-length gloves, slick leather pants tucked into slouchy thigh-high moto boots, and biker-inspired jackets featuring slim sleeves and asymmetrical folds. See below for more Ann Demeulemeester details.
- Trends: Deconstructed pleats, strong outerwear, long sweeping dresses, thigh-high boots, and leather pants.
- Colors: Black and midnight blue.
- Key Piece: No Winter wardrobe should be without one of Ann Demeulemeester's utilitarian-chic coats.
- Accessories: Opera-length gloves and thigh-high boots.
- Who Would Wear It: Ladies who prefer strong silhouettes and a dark color palette, like Rooney Mara and Liv Tyler.
>> At last, the denouement: Fall 2011 Fashion Month is over and out. But before you get back to your regularly scheduled program, may we introduce our favorite shoes from Paris Fashion Week: there's lots of snakeskin, lots of black and white . . . and we couldn't forget those intricately laced Louis Vuitton boots — Kate Moss's pair apparently took four people an hour to lace up!
Julianne Moore is a style-setting woman. She wears the most fashion-forward pieces and usually gets it right. But her latest daring choice — an Ann Demeulemeester Feather Circle Scarf ($480) — she wore to Bulgari's 125th anniversary party in Paris is questionable. Don't get me wrong, I think if anyone can pull it off, it's her, but is it a look you would want to rock? I adore feathers, I dig circle scarves, I just don't know if I love them together. Thoughts?
There are many moments in fashion when I can't believe someone made that! But that's what makes it all so fun — the industry encompasses the chic, the not-so-chic, and the flat-out bizarre. Like these chain shoes; they make Alexander McQueen's armadillo platforms look like a breeze to walk in. I may not want to own them, but I can appreciate them. Proceed to see more similarly unusual pieces, some worth considering, some totally not.