Ennio Capasa's Fall 2013 collection for Costume National brought a renewed focus to streamlined, minimal, and ultimately essential clothing. Rendered primarily in a palette of black, navy, and white with a few pieces in a navy-and-burgundy striped jacquard, these clothes did away with the artful decorations Capasa applied last season (and the avant-garde attitude he applied in previous outings) and focused on cut and tailoring. The show opened with a few riffs on the tuxedo, followed by a cape piped with satin. A fur vest provided warmth over a shirt with sheer sleeves, and the one all-red look on the runway stood out from the dark looks.
Ennio Capasa took minimalism in an interesting direction with his Spring 2013 collection for Costume National. Or rather, he minimized the house's traditionally avant-garde garments by cutting them in half and combining them with other pieces. There was a half tuxedo jacket affixed to a strapless top and a half skirt cleverly sewn to one full-length pant leg. But the combinations went vertical as well as horizontal: on more than one shirt, suit lapels found themselves turned into straps. Many of the looks were cut from black, navy blue, and white fabrics, plus a few in a combination of red and a specific shade of fuchsia created through an obscure chemical process. For decoration, Capasa took images of a bird's wing and an aloe plant from Maurizio Cattelan and Pierpaolo Ferrari's photo journal Toilet Paper and applied them to a few dresses and tops.
>> Ennio Capasa's Fall 2012 collection for Costume National — titled "New Wave - No Wave - Dark Wave" — was a study in asymmetry and layered angularity. Classic tailored pieces, such as tuxedo blazers or menswear-style trousers, were re-imagined and deconstructed, resulting in a tough-looking assortment of cutaway panels and off-kilter tiers. "My women have a metropolitan and post-punk attitude, they combine androgynous and feminine silhouettes," the show notes explained.
Pink Eyelashes and Stuck-Out Tongues — Backstage at Givenchy, Viktor & Rolf, John Galliano, Costume National, and Issey Miyake
>> Color seeped into beauty looks at Issey Miyake and Viktor & Rolf — in the form of long pink eyelashes at the latter; Gisele Bundchen stuck her tongue out — more than once — backstage at Givenchy; plus, see appearances by Miranda Kerr, Erin Wasson, and Naomi Campbell as you flip through the latest backstage snaps from those shows, John Galliano, and Costume National.
Photos by Greg Kessler
Backstage Snaps from Paris Fashion Week Part Three: Lindsey Wixson at Louis Vuitton, Closeups at Alexander McQueen, and More!
>> The last batch of backstage snaps for the Spring 2011 season is here and includes Karolina Kurkova smoking a fake cigar at Hermes; Sasha Pivovarova and Carmen Kass at John Galliano; and up close and personal looks at the Alexander McQueen detailing. All that plus more behind the scenes action from Chloe, Giambattista Valli, Stella McCartney, Yves Saint Laurent, Valentino, Costume National, and Akris in the gallery.
Photos: Greg Kessler
Paris Fashion Week just closed its last show, and if the makeup and hair I've seen on display in the last few days are any indication, we're gearing up for an absolutely gorgeous 2011. The catwalks were lavish with jewel box tones, soft, glossy hair, and patent shine. There's no need to wait six months to jump on these looks, so go on — step into Paris in the springtime.
Erin Wasson's x RVCA is reportedly kaput.
Christian Lacroix's new designer wants to do something for H&M or Target.
Costume National's Ennio Capasa launches more affordable EEQUAL line.
Dolce & Gabbana credit Beckham with revolutionizing menswear.