>> Haider Ackermann Named Guest of Honor at Upcoming Pitti W — The last two Pitti W events in Florence, where women's designers showcase their pre-collections, have hosted Proenza Schouler and Giles as the guest of honor. For the upcoming fair, from June 15 to 18, Haider Ackermann has been named the honoree; he's expected to unveil a special collection designed specifically for the event — even though he typically does not produce pre-collections — that will possibly be commercialized. [WWD]
Along with living my life aquatic, this Spring I'll be a walking, talking army brat. I've always had an affinity for army green — I swear it complements every color. But the Spring runways were attacked by khaki, utilitarianism, belts, leather, bandage, pins, and rugged ruffles. Armed forces? Armed fashion.
>> Last night, shortly before the Victoria's Secret Fashion Show aired on television, another mass retailer was holding its own lingerie fashion show — live — in Paris. Jean Paul Gaultier, Nadja Auermann, Ellen von Unwerth, Eva Herzigova, and Marie-Ange Casta (younger sister of Laetitia) gathered at the Grand Palais last night for the Sonia Rykiel for H&M launch party, complete with an eleven-story high Eiffel Towel replica and models dancing, swinging, and even biking on the extravagant parade floats that puttered down the runway in front of the 2,000-odd guests. Surveying the extravaganza — which included fireworks set off inside — Haider Ackermann put it best: "So much for a crisis.”
The lingerie portion of the collection is in stores this Saturday, Dec. 5, and the parade provided the first glimpse of the knitwear portion, out Feb. 20.
Paris Fashion Week is the creme de la creme of all fashion events. New York had its highlights; London wowed me with its revived schedule; and Milan is always beautiful, but Paris? Undeniably thrilling. Here's a roundup of my favorite looks, ranging from the spooky, kooky looks of Gareth Pugh to breathtaking frocks from Yves Saint Laurent. Peep McQueen's ethereal alien-like ensemble here. Keep on to see magical delights from Hermes, Valentino, Vivienne Westwood, Lanvin, and more.
I've died and gone to gray heaven. My everyday neutral has been sexified by model Selita Ebanks, designer Haider Ackermann, and actress Paula Patton. They are all wrapped in gray, and I'm wrapped in envy. While gray is the perfect canvas for a colorful accessory, here it stands alone just fine. While the color may be safe, the cuts are anything but; ruched, draped, asymmetrical, slit, and one-shouldered, the party never ends. If you're seeking one dress to take you through the season, look no further.
>> Finally Confirmed: Martin Margiela Not Involved in Designing Maison —Just a year ago for the Spring 2009 season, Maison Martin Margiela celebrated its twentieth anniversary with a retrospective show — around that time, rumors began to circulate that the designer left the brand, since bolstered by tepid reviews for the house's Fall 2009 ready-to-wear and couture collections, and most recently, Spring 2010, which Suzy Menkes called "tragic." Over the weekend, Margiela majority stakeholder Renzo Rosso finally confirmed: "Martin has not been there for a long time. He is here but not here. We have a new fresh design team on board. We are focusing on young, realistic energy for the future; this is really Margiela for the year 2015." Also confirmed: the fact that Haider Ackermann was offered creative directorship, but turned it down — likely because the brand refuses to publicize the head designer; it's said that the house is contractually obligated to permanently list Margiela as creative director. [Vogue UK, FWD]
>> Rumors have been swirling around Martin Margiela for almost a year now — but is it all just a ruse put into play by the designer himself?
First, it was reported last September that he was exiting fashion imminently; by March of this year, despite company execs assuring that the designer was still in place, critics were convinced that Margiela had left the building. And last week, T posited that Haider Ackermann may be taking Margiela's place.
But now, Hint reports:
While rumors are brewing that Haider Ackermann may be Martin Margiela's successor, sources close to the elusive Belgian insist that this is one of his elaborate hoaxes. Whatever the case, we hear the incognito king was at the Los Angeles boutique not long ago waiting on unsuspecting costumers.
It sounds like Margiela is still in place at the company if he's waiting on customers at one of his boutiques — so maybe the hoax doesn't just involve the Ackermann rumor, but encompasses the entire supposed exit . . .
>> Haider Ackermann has had a fan in Tilda Swinton for years — she has chosen him numerous times for the red carpet — but his Fall 2009 collection earned him a wider fan base. Style.com raved: "Has Haider Ackermann finally arrived? The beautiful collection he showed today certainly suggests he deserves every bit of the newfound attention." Over the weekend, T echoed the sentiment that Fall 2009 helped the designer make the jump "from newcomer to trendsetter."
His business grew by 43 percent last year, and rumors "have been swirling for months," according to T, that Ackermann would be taking over Maison Martin Margiela:
When queried about the speculation, he sidesteps: 'When you meet the person you have admired for so many years, how can you possibly replace him? Sometimes it's better never to meet your heroes.'