Hedi Slimane

>> Hedi Slimane is consistently rumored to be heading back to the designing side of fashion, but for now, he seems quite content as a photographer: "It seems quite refreshing to be on this side of fashion, to have the distance and freedom. The fashion system has been busy keeping up with broadband and blogging/social networking. It is not always for the best, but it did give fashion a global audience. The unfortunate outcome might be the obsession and collusion between the celebrity culture and high fashion. It is just a big global mess of random endorsement. Nothing looks worse than a dress or a suit on a red carpet. It is an ongoing tragedy of cheap fashion on cheap celebrities, followed by ubercheap comments. I only like designers’ clothes on models. Good models have an inner understanding of the clothes and design." [Style File]

>> Riccardo Tisci is regarded as a favorite to succeed John Galliano at Dior — he already works for LVMH at Givenchy, and as a source told Racked, "Givenchy is a training ground for Dior, just like for Galliano in the '90s" (Galliano was creative director at Givenchy before joining Dior in 1996).

Now, Fashionista reports: "The latest gossip [at Paris Fashion Week] goes something like this: Riccardo Tisci will indeed replace Galliano at Christian Dior, Haider Ackermann will slip into Tisci’s spot at Givenchy, and despite YSL’s vehement denial otherwise, Hedi Slimane is about to take over for Stefano Pilati. Oh, and yes, Carine Roitfeld is coming along for the ride."

Vogue UK heard similarly regarding Pilati and Saint Laurent: "Fashion insiders close to the action in Paris suggest that a major fashion reshuffle could be set in to motion in the coming week — and may be sparked by the rumoured appointment of Hedi Slimane and Carine Roitfeld as the new creative team at the helm of YSL. Nothing has been confirmed by the brand, but our sources suggest that — despite YSL protestations to the contrary — Pilati may be replaced."

>> In the aftermath of John Galliano's dismissal, it is understood that Christian Dior plans to go ahead with its runway show on Friday. The Fall 2011 collection to be shown will be Galliano's last for Dior. Will the usual suspects be in attendance in light of the scandal? Time will tell.

And WSJ's Christina Binkley predicts via Twitter: "Don't expect the Galliano thing to end easily. French gov't will likely require a process, and there's the Galliano line to contend with." She's referring to the fate of Galliano's eponymous label — which, like Dior, is owned by LVMH. It also is expected to show as usual, but as for guest attendance, it sounds like even the label's own PR is unsure — they apparently sent out an email today asking attendees to confirm their presence. And will Kate Moss continue to have Galliano design her wedding dress?

For the conspiracy theorists, Fashionista reports: "We’re hearing rumors that the video was from October and released this week because Dior has wanted Galliano out for some time. It’s true, the timing of all this does seem suspect – the quickness with which Dior put Galliano on suspension, and the subsequent allegation that followed, capped by the release of video, the final nail in Galliano’s coffin. Word is Galliano’s alcoholism (he was often reported to be seen drunk at La Perle) and bigotry had been problems for some time." And Fashion Television's Jeanne Beker tweets: "I've seen Galliano rant and rave before. He really does need help. I love the guy (or thought I did) but am sickened by what's gone on."

So who will succeed Galliano? T's Horacio Silva tweets: "So John Galliano has been fired. Who's going to get the call — Riccardo Tisci or Alber Elbaz?" And the International Herald Tribune's Jessica Michault responds: "The safe bet is Riccardo Tisci." Other names that have been thrown around on Twitter are Olivier Theyskens, Hedi Slimane, and Haider Ackermann.

>> After the latest round of Stefano Pilati-leaving-Yves Saint Laurent rumors were unleashed following house CEO Valerie Bermann's departure — these had Hedi Slimane set to replace Pilati in an imminent announcement — the house has taken to Twitter this afternoon to dispel the reports: "From YSL HQ in Paris… Pilati busy working on the next collection. All the rumors unfounded — he is here to stay." And there you have it. [@Y_S_L]

>> For the better part of a year now, Stefano Pilati's standing at Yves Saint Laurent has been under intense scrutiny. After reports circulated that he had renewed his contract at the house for three more years in October, the rumors of his imminent departure subsided — until Saint Laurent CEO Valerie Hermann, who with Pilati restored the house to profitability, announced last week she was stepping down to become CEO of Reed Krakoff on April 1. She helped recruit her successor at YSL, former Lanvin CEO Paul Deneve.

Then, a couple of days ago, someone tweeted under Kenzo's PR handle: "Just heard BIG news about this being a certain designer at an established French house's last season and being replaced by someone major!!" and "CEO has just left and now the designer replaced by someone who has moved away from design the last couple of yrs but stayed in fashion." The tweets — which seem to point to Pilati as the deposed and Hedi Slimane as the successor — have since been taken down (Note that YSL is under the PPR umbrella, whereas Kenzo is part of LVMH).

Now, Hint is reporting that according to sources, Hermann didn't leave her post last week, but rather was let go because of low sales volume. And Slimane — who designed for Saint Laurent before Dior Homme — has been chosen as Pilati's replacement, partially due to his friendship (read: ability to get along) with Pierre Berge. Word is, one way or another, the matter will be addressed by a spokesperson around Paris Fashion Week.

And in the aftermath? There's already been suggestions that Carine Roitfeld with consult for Slimane at the brand, and of course, there's the rumor that Pilati is set to take over at Giorgio Armani after the designer's retirement.

>> In response to the rumors of Stefano Pilati's tenuous footing at Yves Saint Laurent, more rumors: Balmain's Christophe Decarnin, former Saint Laurent men's designer Hedi Slimane, and Raf Simons were all reportedly approached for the job, but nonetheless, Pilati is said to have recently extended his contract for another three years. Word is, Hint reports: "Pierre Bergé has no interest in seeing the YSL brand continue. He'd rather see it killed and the legacy remain untouchable, observed only from afar through exhibitions, films, auctions, etc. As his foundation still controls the YSL archives, he can and does make life difficult for whomever wants a closer look at the house's DNA," which may have contributed to the potential replacements turning Pilati's position down. There's also speculation that Karl Lagerfeld plans to retire on his 30th anniversary at Chanel in 2012 — "it's thought he'll stage a massive, never-before-seen, no-expense-spared farewell" — leaving Alber Elbaz to take his place and Olivier Theyskens to take the reins at Lanvin. [Hint]

>> Over the weekend, The Imagist had tongues wagging with a rumor involving three designers shifting their current placement (or lack thereof): "Should it come true, would mean two major fashion houses are in line for a serious re-alignment. The three part scoop involves...(A.) one of fashion's most major designer retiring from a venerable house, making room for that complex and talented countryman of his (B....) jumping from his current house to the vacant throne. Which (C) then leaves another of fashion's most legendary brands open for a certain star talent to come out of the wilderness back into the luxury fold."

In response, a Fashin commenter posted: "If the 2nd blind item is the same one that has been floating around (Which I think it is), the keyword for it is 'Italian'..." And the Imagist commenters posited: "Armani retires. Pilati replaces him. Slimane to YSL. ?!?" This is all speculation, but Stefano Pilati's situation at Saint Laurent has been rumored to be tenuous.

The landing page of HediSlimane.com has been altered to memorialize model Ambrose Olson, who passed away last week apparently by hanging. Hedi's site features a video of Olson shot for VMan by Slimane for the first issue of the magazine in July of 2003. A moving tribute.

To see the video, read more

Freja Beha Erichsen and exotic taxidermy, photographed by Terry Richardson for Vogue Nippon.

Alexander McQueen's funeral took place in London today with Daphne Guinness, Naomi Campbell, Lady Gaga, and Kate Moss in attendance. A more public memorial service is planned for later this year, although no date has been confirmed.

Karl Lagerfeld has designed a limited-edition safe with Dottling, claimed to be the world's most expensive and named "Narcissus." The six-foot tall steel and chrome monolith will retail for $339,000.

Teen Vogue announces a licensing deal to create bedding and room decor based on fashion trends from the magazine.

A closer look at Nicholas Kirkwood's melted wax heels for Rodarte fall 2010.